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Hello fellow Wing riders ...I have been going through the Goldwing Forums and cannot believe the wealth of information that is on it.

I am now a new member of the forum as well a a new owner of an 1984 GL1200 Interstate with 65000 miles on it. The bike was owned and maintained by a former aircarft mechanic and has never seen winter. It looks and runs like a new one...except for a recent noise that has caught my attention. The rear wheel makes a clumpy sound when running and gets worse at higher gears (I guess at higher speed).

I have veried it with the engine running in gear on the stand and the noise is evident on all gears when the wheel is moving. I have verified where the noise came from using a stethoscope and realized it came fron around the final drive housing at the rear wheel. I checked for wheel play, moving it from side to side and noticed a slight movement with a slight squeeky sound. I have removed the wheel hoping to find an evident problem , but with no luck. My only suspicion is the coupling and pins and or wheel bearings. As described in the repair manual (see attacmnet) , I have pried the coupling from the wheel. Is there suppose to be some play from the coupling pins. The pins are dry and a bit rusty and there is gease residue (I think) around the housing.

Thanks for your help!

Gilles C. (Midnight Frog)
 

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:waving::waving:Welcome Gilles to the Best Goldwing forum on the Web!:waving::waving:

The rear wheel should have NO side to side play at all. Check carefully to see if it's the wheel orswing arm bearings. Might be in the drive line. I tend to doubt that's where the noise you're describing is coming from the driven flange. The driven flangeshouldn't haveany play in the damper blocks.

As long as you have the wheel off you might want to go ahead and pull the rear drive and check it for play and crud and take a look at your drive line and u-joint along with it's boot. Usually a bike with the mileage of yours is still in pretty good shape if it's been properly serviced.

Clean the driven flange and it's mating splines along with those on the rear drive and regrease with moly grease.

Most of all get a copy of Clymer's or the Honda manual for you bike, it will make working on it a lot easier.

:waving::15red::waving:
 

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Welcome Gilles. The wheel should not move at all, but if there is play in those bushings then you would get a clunk sound when taking up the drive or when accelerating. A constant rumble suggests wheel bearings. If the bushings in the picture are worn on your bike you will see the cracks and breaks in the rubbers.
 

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Thank you for the reply

I have verified and foundno play in the swing arm section and I suspect the play comes from the wheel bearings. Should I get these changed at a Honda service center or is the procedure simple enough for most with simple mechanic skills? I have also obtained a Haynes Service Manual ...are these ok?

Thanks again for the advice!:waving:
 

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some of the 84 series had problems with the rear wheel bearing that would become loose and wear the bearing surface on the wheel. Hopefully it is the bearing and not this. If the bearing surface has worn it will require re-machining and an oversize bearing placed in.
 
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Midnight Frog wrote:
Hello fellow Wing riders ...I have been going through the Goldwing Forums and cannot believe the wealth of information that is on it.

I am now a new member of the forum as well a a new owner of an 1984 GL1200 Interstate with 65000 miles on it.
Hey Midnight Frog :waving: "Cead Mile Failte" or "One Hundred Thousand Welcomes" to the best forum on the net. :clapper:Good luck with your new :12red:

and have many safe miles. :jumper: Loads of information here so make the best of it. :weightlifter:

:skipping::18red::skipping:
 

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Right on the button!:clapper:

One ofthe bearings was loose as you described . I was able to remove it with my finger. The sleeve however does not seem worn. The bearingsare a one sided seal only. I have replaced both with complete sealed bearings and was able to shim the outer race of the bearingso that it fit tight.

Thanks for your help:D
 

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Thanks for the reply!:action:

I havereplaced my two bearings...One was loose but was not broken. I had to shim a new one in. Everything looks fine. Thanks for the help!

Gilles (Midnight Frog):cheeky1:
 

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Midnight Frog wrote:
Thanks for the reply!:action:

I havereplaced my two bearings...One was loose but was not broken. I had to shim a new one in. Everything looks fine. Thanks for the help!

Gilles (Midnight Frog):cheeky1:
I'd sure be careful with shimming a bearing into a wheel. If you could pull the bearing out with finger pressure, the recess is worn and it is most likely it is no longer cylindrical, it will wear mostly toward the outer edge becoming a truncated conical section. This will allow theshim to work it's way out opening the recess even more. Machining out the wheel and pressing in a sleeve would be a safe way to go, but you need to machine out the recess to insure that the sides are parallel. I don't like to think of something going wrong
 

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Midnight Frog wrote:
Thanks for the reply!:action:

I have replaced my two bearings...One was loose but was not broken. I had to shim a new one in. Everything looks fine. Thanks for the help!

Gilles (Midnight Frog):cheeky1:
Have it machined, or replace the wheel, sh*$ happens at the most unexpected time, your life is worth more than a shim :)
 

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Thanks exavid...I will look into getting the recessmachined to fit a new bearing.

Gilles (Midnight Frog)
 
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