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I think you have the vacuum line to the ignition unit connected in the wrong place. It should be on the nipple on the inside of #4 carb under the throttle shaft.
 

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I think you have the vacuum line to the ignition unit connected in the wrong place. It should be on the nipple on the inside of #4 carb under the throttle shaft.
Pay attention to what Dave is saying. It makes perfect sense. :nerd: There are two kinds of vacuum you can get from your engine. Manifold and venturi. They work exactly opposite of each other. As one goes up the other goes down. If you have the line from the ICU connected wrong it will do exactly what your symptoms are. There are 2 requirements to create the issue. The line is in the wrong place and the bike must be in 4th or 5th gear. Makes perfect sense. That is why there is no issue when idling in neutral on the sidestand. The bike has to be in 4th or 5th for the ignition to advance. Both are present on the road where the issue shows up. Only the line is in the wrong place when on the sidetand. That is why he suggested putting the bike on the centerstand in 4th or 5th gear to see if RPM increases. So, now get to it!:ROFL::ROFL:
 

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Discussion Starter #23
YES SIR !!! LOL .I will get to it as soon as I am done visiting with my Brother and his wife. They live in China but are visiting here in the GREAT USA. But I have never moved any lines at all never had the engine out of the frame never pulled the carbs . So it can't be that . Only thing I have done is but on SS Braided brake lines complete set front and back and added a extra fuse block to the bike. Never had these issue B4 wing did seat for almost a year in 2018 but that is all. And these never started untill I added the extra fuse block but can't see how that would make a difference . Brake lins and fuse block both added these year . Ran fine after brake lines were added I think only rode it 2x then had to put it up again stop ridding do to another surgery then added fuse block and now have these problem.
 

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YES SIR !!! LOL .I will get to it as soon as I am done visiting with my Brother and his wife. They live in China but are visiting here in the GREAT USA. But I have never moved any lines at all never had the engine out of the frame never pulled the carbs . So it can't be that . Only thing I have done is but on SS Braided brake lines complete set front and back and added a extra fuse block to the bike. Never had these issue B4 wing did seat for almost a year in 2018 but that is all. And these never started untill I added the extra fuse block but can't see how that would make a difference . Brake lins and fuse block both added these year . Ran fine after brake lines were added I think only rode it 2x then had to put it up again stop ridding do to another surgery then added fuse block and now have these problem.
As I said earlier that engines that hunt or surge are usually caused by lean fuel mixtures. Now I agree if you never moved a hose around it is not likely the electronic advance. I read one of your earlier posts where you said if you accelerate in neutral suddenly the engine can shut off. Another sign of lean conditions. If you put that together with all the times you are not riding it makes me wonder if the carbs might not be a little varnished. You might try pouring an entire can of Seafoam in a full tank of gas and take a nice long ride. You can mix Seafoam up to 50/50 so a can will not hurt anything. Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
No I have not checked for vacume leaks yet. What is the best way to do that. Never had done that B4. I have to say you guys are a great help to me and others on here . I really appreciate everthing ever one is,doing to help me figure out the problem. THANKS GUYS
 

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But I have never moved any lines at all never had the engine out of the frame never pulled the carbs . So it can't be that . m.
But still it's the only thing that makes any sense. The only difference with it being in any other gear other than 4th or 5th is the spark advance.
 

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But still it's the only thing that makes any sense. The only difference with it being in any other gear other than 4th or 5th is the spark advance.
How about this? Unplug the switch for the gear sensor and take a ride. As I sit here I can think back and I had one of those modules apart to fix the internal vacuum line. It seems to me there was a diaphragm or piston type thing that was actuating a switch or pot. What if the piston is stuck? Or the switch is stuck? If the line was bad it would not advance or speed up.
 

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Where do you buy that tool they use to lube the cables ? And do you have to disconnect the cables under the false tank or just at the throttle grip to lube them?
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W/ref=asc_df_B0012TYX9W/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158603728&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8262391151724924564&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008856&hvtargid=pla-460266440593&psc=1[/ame]
 

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No I have not checked for vacume leaks yet. What is the best way to do that. Never had done that B4. I have to say you guys are a great help to me and others on here . I really appreciate everthing ever one is,doing to help me figure out the problem. THANKS GUYS
Quick way. Get some starter fluid and spray around the intake manifolds. If the motor starts surging, you have a leak.
 

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No I have not checked for vacume leaks yet. What is the best way to do that. Never had done that B4. I have to say you guys are a great help to me and others on here . I really appreciate everthing ever one is,doing to help me figure out the problem. THANKS GUYS
It seems to ma a vacuum leak would act the same no matter what gear you are in.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
OK I did like Dave said to do on the 5th post. When I get to 4th gear rpms increase about +140 to +160 rpms. I do want to thank you for your patience. been spending time with my brother and sister-in-law that are from China and trying to get the bike ready for small road trip also so my plate has been pretty full thank you for your patience.I wI'll get a can of starting fluid tomorrow and check that out too.
 

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OK I did like Dave said to do on the 5th post. When I get to 4th gear rpms increase about +140 to +160 rpms. I do want to thank you for your patience. been spending time with my brother and sister-in-law that are from China and trying to get the bike ready for small road trip also so my plate has been pretty full thank you for your patience.I wI'll get a can of starting fluid tomorrow and check that out too.
Starting fluid is OK but use it sparingly. If you use too much it can get in the snorkel and drive you crazy. That is why I like propane best. It is heavier than air and it will even find leaks in the bottom of a hose. That is not uncommon for a hose to wear through the bottom from laying on a hot object for years and years.:)
 

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I give up. :headbanger:
 

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OK I did like Dave said to do on the 5th post. When I get to 4th gear rpms increase about +140 to +160 rpms. I do want to thank you for your patience. been spending time with my brother and sister-in-law that are from China and trying to get the bike ready for small road trip also so my plate has been pretty full thank you for your patience.I wI'll get a can of starting fluid tomorrow and check that out too.
I just skimmed all your posts and I think I know the source of Dave's frustration. I think you were confused and already found the source of your issue. When you put the bike in 4th or 5th gear you should expect no change. The fact that it increased in RPM is not normal.
I think you need to go back and revisit that again. If you shift to 4th or 5th at idle you should NOT get an RPM change. There is no venturi vacuum available for the ICM at idle in 4th and 5th AT IDLE. No venturi vacuum would mean no advance. That would mean it should have no increase in RPM.
When you are cruising down the highway with the throttle open you have venturi vacuum to the ICU and therefore ignition advance. When you release the throttle manifold vacuum goes sky high and venturi vacuum goes down. The advance should go away with the loss of venturi vacuum as well as the extra RPM.
As Dave is busy banging his head on the wall :) I would suggest this. Do the same test again on the centerstand but this time bring the RPM up to about 3,000 RPM with the clutch out in 4th gear. When you release the throttle does the RPM hang? It should not. If it does, just for grins try taking off or pinching off the vacuum line going to the ICU and try 3,000 RPM again. BE CAREFUL you don't run the bike out the garage wall. Point it toward the door.:ROFL: Check back with results.
Just a quick thought. The line going to the ICU might be collapsed, restricted or pinched there by holding the vacuum after you release the throttle?????? Making the engine stay advanced and high RPM???? Might have to change that vacuum line all the way from the carb to the ICU???? :) Also might be a failure in the ICU?????
 

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And if there is a vacuum Leak the bike will start to run sluggish because it is sucking in the propane?
Check above first but if a leak is found the propane would be drawn in the leak and the pitch of the engine would change. Usually increase RPM. Go to Youtube and search finding vacuum ;eak with propane.Oh, screw the jet out of the torch or you might not have enough gas coming from the tank to do the job.


 
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