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(1985 aspencade gl1200A)

I'm posting a picture showing some melted wiring-- I haven't figured out yet what this wiring is for. I found it because I was trying to track down why my radiator fan isn't working, so I'm hoping that this melted wiring is part of that system.

The wiring is to the left of the battery, and goes down into a part of the engine that I can't identify. (The black arrow points to the unknown part, and the green arrow points to where the wires actually go into the part.)

Following the other end of the wiring, I see some other wires that also look like they need to be replaced underneath the false tank (the housing has melted off of one, so there is exposed wiring, and some of the sheathing on others is bubbled a bit).

There is a fair amount of corrosion on the part that actually melted the covering, so I'm hoping that this is the source of all of my other problems. So here are my questions:
1) what is the part that the black arrow is pointing to?
2) what are these wires for that are no longer connected?
3) Since I'm going to have to cut the wires back and solder in some replacement (unless there's a better way?), how can I ensure that I'm connecting the right wires from the bottom to the correct wires from the top?

<defensive tone> the bike is relatively new to me, so although I've not been shy about riding it in the rain it doesn't get left out in the rain-- I think this corrosion was inherited.
</defensive tone>

Thanks!

Edited: s/big/bike/
 

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Aha, I have figured out that this is the stator, but am still researching the best way to fix this wiring issue. I do have the Haynes manual for this bike, and am still super eager for any pointers.
 

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Top arrow stator housing,bottom arrow stator wiring going into engine if its melted it shot and wouldnt take a chance soldering wires to numbs if there any left..Very common issue with these bikes Ive done two replacements..
Wire placement doesnt matter if you want to give it a shot three yellows to yellows..Good luck Follow the top set up and get rid of the plug and solder those together as well if thats what your going to try first...
 

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Top arrow stator housing,bottom arrow stator wiring going into engine if its melted it s shot,most likely though you may get lucky...I wouldnt take a chance soldering wires to numbs if there any left..Very common issue with these bikes Ive done two replacements..
Wire placement doesnt matter if you want to give it a shot three yellows to yellows..Good luck FAlso follow the top set up and get rid of the plug and solder those together as well if thats what your going to try first...
 

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First thing I would do , assuming you have enough wire coming out of the motor, is do the stator test.It's a good possibility with the wire and connector melted that it shorted the stator. If the stator tests ok then you can rewire the three stator wires. The three wires should be yellow, they go from the stator to the regulator rectifier under the false tank. There are two connectors that usually melt, you found the one by the battery, the other is up by the R/R.
 

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Thanks very much for the fast response. I just got back from Reilly's, and will try the stator test before I go ahead and reconnect these wires. (I guess that means I have a reprieve for the night-- need to let the battery charge up.)

I _think_ there's enough wiring coming from the stator to attach new wire to, although I haven't stripped it back to inspect it yet.

For posterity's sake, here is the stator test that I think jwhitmore44 is referring to: http://www.goldwingfacts.com/GL1200Statortest.htm
 

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1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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That test'll do ya! It's very simular to the test I normaly post... My advise is after you test the stator go ahead and run 3 new 12ga yellowwires from the stator to the regulator, soldering the connections and use heat shrink insulation on the soldered joint's...
 

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all info here is corrct and we all hope the stator is ok, now for the next problem,the fan not comming on, what makes you think its not comming on? did it get hot? they dont make alot of noise, but this will not likely stop the fan from comming on unless the battery goes dead
 

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Don't try to solve any other electric problems until the stator wires are fixed. The stator and battery are the heart and lungs-so to speak-of the electrical system. If stator isnt charging and battery drains many electrical items will become inop as voltage drops. It is very possible that your cooling fan will function noramlly once the stator repair is made and charging.
The basic idea here is that 3 wires exit the stator rear oil seal until they reach that connector you have pictured. From there they run into the main harness and emerge up under the false gas tank at voltage regulator. They enter regulator through two connectors. The best repair as others have mentioned is to run 3 new wires from stator to regulator and straight solder them omitting the connectors.
Perform stator test first after cutting out damaged plug then perform wire repair. After charging issue is solved charge battery fully and retest cooling fan.
 

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@sctrucker: The bike started running hot, and after verifying that I did have enough coolant (and oil, too), I realized that I wasn't hearing the fan anymore when I first turned the ignition key to 'on'.

Since the haynes manual specifically agrees with wingsam41 (I think it says to make sure the battery is charged fully as one of the fan troubleshooting steps), I'm hopeful that this is the cause.

General followup question: I don't recall seeing anything in the manual about replacing the wires to the stator-- is this doable without taking the stator out (which from what I understand also means taking the engine out)?
 

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I had the same problem on my 84 Aspy - one of the stator wires was broken at the connector. I just cut all three wires further down and made jumpers up to the wires where I cut out the connectors. I soldered all three and covered with heat shrink. The wire that was broken caused my odometer no to work and battery voltage was very low.

Your fan should not come on when you turn on the key unless the motor is already hot. My fan only comes on when the bike is hot and has been idling or has been ridden in heavy stop and go traffic on a hot day. At highway speeds, it rarely comes on.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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As DW says, the fan shouldn't be coming on unles the bike is hot. In your climate, the bike will rarely get hot. May be that someone hard wired the fan. That would burn it out.
 

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unixguy wrote:
General followup question: I don't recall seeing anything in the manual about replacing the wires to the stator-- is this doable without taking the stator out (which from what I understand also means taking the engine out)?
You are not really replacing the wires to the stator, you are eliminating the plastic connector that is there to the left of the battery and wiring the stator directly to the regulator. This is assuming that the wires that are coming out of the stator cover are still in good shape so that you can add wire to them to bypass the connector. If the wire coming out of the stator cover has burnt back to the cover then it may be best to pull the stator. A different option to pulling the stator is to install an external alternator, look up poor boy conversion.
 

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I had the same problem so I cut out the burnt parts, soldered in three 2" pieces of 12ga yellow wire (make sure you have the heat shrink in place before the last connection is done), I haven't had a issue (with this) since then, charging great. Good luck
 

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Sorry if this seems over complicated but as others have said you are simply eliminating the connectors from the stator circuit. Put simply...Imagine 3 wires running directly out of stator to input side of voltage regulator. These 3 wires are interupted once with a 3-wire connector at battery and again up by the regulator (here the 3 wires divide up between two connectors). Either way the idea is to create a straight run of three wires from the stator direct to the voltage regulator with no plastic connectors in between.
Food for thought, I still think you should solve charging issue before looking at fan but you may have 2 diferent issues here. If bike overheated either fan wasn't working and that was the cause of overheating or vice-versa. An air pocket in the cooling system can prevent coolant reaching fan temp switch. If this occurs coolant may not circulate properly and bike can overheat while never triggering fan to come on .
Solve the charging issue then refill bike with coolant and "burp" air out of cooling system through radiator cap. If fan doesn't come on then proceed with fan t/shooting.
 

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OOPs yup-Aspy only has 1 8 pin connector near regulator- shoulda checked that pic/title closer-tought it was a LTD the pic tells it all carb intake visible and fuel s/off in wrong spot. Either way the advice is the same get ridda those connectors!
 

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My bike must be "special"-- from the stator to the regulator I count 4 plugs (1 melted + 3 others).

I do have good news though-- stator tests out ok, so I'm going to put the new wires in and hopefully solve this problem.
 

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Special, eh?? :shock:On the carb'd GL1200's between the stator and the regulator/rectifier thereshould be 2 connectors, one being the one you're dealing with right now and one rectangular connectorlocated under the fake gas tank fairing at the regulator/rectifier. If you've removed the tank fairing and do indeed have 3 connectors there, I'd like to see a pic of that if you don't mind posting one.....
 

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Oh drat. I knew I should have taken a picture. I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow in the hopes that somehow the fan just wasn't running, but if it's still overheating then I'll be digging in again.

The connectors that I've now bypassed in order from the stator to the rectifier:
1) the melted one
2) one that was hanging loose, to the left and front of the rectifier
3) one that was mounted just in front of the rectifier
4) one that was behind the rectifier (not mounted), slightly above some other device

Hmm, maybe I'll take the fake tank off regardless-- now you've got me curious.
 
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