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OK.. I'll try this one more time (3rd time) It keeps telling me its too large. "thank you very much" SO here we go real quick. I think I have a bad stator. Can I take off the back cover and stator out without removing the engine from the fram. I'm trying to avoid taking everything off the engine.

Thank you for your help
 

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Al sums it up well Bandit. The engine has to come out so you can get the back cover off and do the job. Its not as bad as you think to take out the engine though.
 

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Hi Bandit.

If you look back in Steve's Goldwing Maintenance tips, he describes how to remove the engine in the GL1200's. Just take your time and mark where the nuts & bolts went when you removed them. None will be left on the floor of the shop when you put the bike back together. Aso, while the engine is out, inspect the clutch, impulse generator and alternator drive shaft for any slop, scraping marks or wear.. Now's the time to make repairs.. Also, have allnew seals & gaskets on hand for assembly. Don't re-use any of the old ones. By the way, one of Steve's tips is to leave the carburetors on the bike.. Saves about 1/2 hour of labor.

_______________________________________________

All Gave Some,, Some Gave All
 

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OK, Thank You, I thought I would have to. It'a just that I don't have a shop!. I have my bike in a large colman tent while I was woking on it. It's big enough that I can walk around the bike so I should have room to work and pull the motor.

Thanks again:)

Jim Whitney
 

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You might also want to check into the alternator conversion that are number of gl1200 people have done.

Look at the GWRAA Classic Wings message board and hunt for stator or alternator. You'll find that there a guy who has complete plans for changing over to a small GM alternator and the people who have done it are very happy.

His gives complete plans for doing it yourself and if you want to buy the parts off him to do it (without the alternator), it was less than a couple of hundred bucks ... plus the best part ... you leave the stator alone and don't remove the engine.

You may find it's worth a look as that's the route I'll go if / when my '86 Aspy stator goes.

Russ
 

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Thanks Russ, I had actualy already read that but at the time I didn't think I wanted to do that. But after looking at all the crap that's on this engine putting a GM alternator on itisstarting to sound really good. I'm sure going to go back and look at it now. Thanks Again

Jim
 

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Jim, why not just buy a heavy duty rewound stator and fit that instead? You still need to pull the engine, but a HD stator will last for as long as you own the bike. Also less weight to pull without all the GM bits fitted.
 

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I've got a heavy duty stator in mine. It's been in the bike about 3 years and never a problem. Much better than paying Honda for another quick-wear stator.
 

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Someone over here in the UK was rewinding the 1200 stators for a long time and as far as I know they were a good job. I'll ask around at the weekend and see if I can find out more.
 

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Hey everyone,

I'm new here and found this sight chasing down problems with my stator on my GL 1200. WHAT was Honda thinking? After calling therepair shops and going over all of the options I decided to take the situation and try and figure out the BEST solution, not only to my problem, but apparently others as well. I sat down with some friends. A fabricatoran ASE mechanic and a certified alternator/starter builder/rebuilder. Here is what we came up with.

Using an alternator instead of the stator is definately the best idea. It seemed the problems here were figuring out where to drive thealternator from, where to mount it, what belts, pulleys and even what alternator to use.

Using my GL 1200 as the template for this project, we've come up with the greatest set-up. Talking to the folks I'd spoken to earlier at the repair shops and some fellow GoldWing owners they seemed to think so too. I'm hoping you guys will give some feed back too. Concealed by the faring without having to cut or stretch anything, a small, high output, single wirealternator with an exciter. Alternator weighs about 5 lbs, 60 amp output, 3:1 pulley ratio for superior charging at low RPM's. Easily mounted and only about 6 or 7 lbs total including hardware, pulleysand belt.They are setting up jigsfor the mounting hardware and brackets and will make the entire kit including the mounting hardware, alternator, exciter, pulleys, wiring and belt available to purchase. They were thinking about $600 for everything.

There are a few "pissed off" upgrades (to use my alternator guys words) that are available for additional costs. We're building my alternator to kick out 80 amps and running it through a digital voltage regulator that will give voltage readouts via coloredLED's.

We'll put this kit on the bike this weekend or beginning of next week. I'll be there to take photos and notes. I'll put this information up on their website and a link to order the kit and post that site here. For now, they said they will make 10 kits and make them available for $600. After these 10 are gone they are raising the price to $650. Until then, if you have input or questions find me here and I'll do my best to get you the answer.
 

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Kevmills, did you ever get the kits to work? Did you get 10 made and sold? Got any more? I have a bad phase in my GL200 stator.
 

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Hello people,
when you say" heavy duty rebuilt stator ... can you give me a bettere spec.
Saioro
 

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The RMStator people re-wind the stator core with wire onesize up from OEM wire(size diff is not apparent by eye), which increases the output by approx 10% (they claim) -which is what they mean by heavy duty. They wouldn't comment on whether this would yield a longer or shorter lifetime for the stator winding insulation. Sounds like the best defence against stator wire insulation failure for the 1200's is frequent oil changes to keep the oil acidity as low as possible. Apparently this isthe root cause of failure (since 1100's useidentical statorandthey rarely fail, and, the1100 stator doesn't get oil bathed in the same mannor that the 1200's do... do by deduction...

My system charges at 14.7v at 1400 rpm now. I have two PIAA 35w running lights for increased visibility and run on high beam all the time. At cruizing speed (80km/hr) V meter registers 14.6V. If I crank the stereo way up andswitch the CB on, the meter will get down to about 14.3V.

All works well. Just hope it lasts another 70,000 km until I have to replace another stator. Did this one myself ($340 total) and one week... next time will be quicker.
 

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Hello,

I just finished the nightmare and took the engine off to replace stator...it' s terribly COOKED$ROASTED:

I found one on e bay for 40$ and it is for an " 84 " stator ,will this fit my 85 aspencade?

Soon I will post pictures of the engine removal.

Any help appreciated.

Lucio Italy
 

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I Don't know if the '84 stator will fit an '85 (Tricky or Guru will know)...but I've been toyour city and I must say it is very beautiful. Ciao.
 

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Hello,

I just finished the nightmare and took the engine off to replace stator...it' s terribly COOKED$ROASTED:

I found one on e bay for 40$ and it is for an " 84 " stator ,will this fit my 85 aspencade?

Soon I will post pictures of the engine removal.

Any help appreciated.

Lucio Italy
 

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Is it 2nd hand? I'd go for the external alternator conversion, or at the very least a heavy duty internal one. These darn things fail so regularly I wouldn't trust used...Steve
 

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oh boy....
another 1200 stator replacement. You are in good company. I replaced mine back in sept 2006. yes the engine must be removed. follow the directions on this site. also there is a shortcut that will allow you to remove the engine at the parting line of the intake manifold and head. so no need to remove all of the carburetors. this will save you gobs of time. I did this.

this fix will take you all weekend, so shut down anything else going on in your life and give this deal your undivided attention.

you have some good help here as many of us have done this and there are some good pics

here are some of mine:

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/photopost/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/5330


and advice to help out...so dive in!

also...Once you are in there Please, go through all the connectors and check for corrosion, because this will be the next thing you may face after replacing the stator. any corrosion on the connections will generate heat and this heat is enough to melt the connectors and wiring. clean the connectors (found under the glove box section of the false gas tank) and then either solder the wires (if the terminal is damaged) or clean the connectors and use a good dialectic grease to keep the connections clean (for a while)

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8196


sorry for the long post....just trying to keep another rider on the road and out of the shop (or garrage...."/)



 
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