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I just bought a 1985 GL1200 Aspencade and have a couple of questions. :baffled:

1. Will the electrical system handle two driving/fog lights? I am looking at a pair of 55W lights to run all the time for safety reasons (more visible to others) and they have H3 bulbs. A check at the battery @ 3200 rpm is showing 14.72 V.My bike does not have any other after market accessories.

2. Which service manual is best? Honda, Clymer or Chiltens(sp)?
 

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:waving::waving:Welcome to the Best Goldwing Site on the Internet jdf!:waving::waving:

Adding nearly 10A additional load to the 85 Aspencade is asking a lot of it, especially since you want to carry it full time. If you must add driving lights a pair of 35W bulbs would stress your twenty year old stator and electrical system less. I'd advise installing them with a switch too, in stop and go riding the battery may not stay fully charged. You might want to considera headlight modulator if being seen is what you're looking for, they make a bike a lot more conspicuous than extra lights.

My choice of manuals would be: Honda, Clymers, Haynes, anything else. If you don't have much mechanical experience the Clymer may be more useful, it also gives ways to work around some of the special Honda tools.
 

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I have an 85 Aspy as well. Tried the 55 watt driving lights, but they pulled the charging system down a bit too much. What I did was swap out the 55 watt bulbs for 35 watt bulbs. You can get them from Electrical Connection. Not much difference in brightness, and it's a lot easier on the charging system. My volt meter shows about 14.2 volts at speed with the lights on, but you can expect it to dropbelow 13 volts at speed if the cooling fan is running. I installed the toggle switch for the lights where it is easily reachable while riding. That way, I can shut them off if I'm in start-stop traffic, etc. I don't think you'll be disappointed with the 35 watt bulbs.

Tom
 

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Welcome to the forum, Jim.
I too have an '85 Aspencade. If you install the fog lamps, be sure to turn them off when the engine speed is slow, like when your at stoplights. THey will drain the battery when at idle.
I have the Clymer and Haynes manuals, and would pick the Clymer. It is thicker and has better pictures.
 

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jdf wrote:
I just bought a 1985 GL1200 Aspencade and have a couple of questions. :baffled:

1. Will the electrical system handle two driving/fog lights? I am looking at a pair of 55W lights to run all the time for safety reasons (more visible to others) and they have H3 bulbs. A check at the battery @ 3200 rpm is showing 14.72 V.My bike does not have any other after market accessories.

2. Which service manual is best? Honda, Clymer or Chiltens(sp)?
Jdf, the light usage issue has been well explained above.

I will just add- Your 85-1200 has a 360 watt charging system, of that 360 watts a good portion of that is used up just operating the bike & running the cooling fan, tail lights, headlight, brake lights, ign coils, fuel pump, battery charging,etc. The biggest problem is that 360 watts in only put out at high engine RPM's (Max at over 5000 RPM's).

You probably have a little less than 60 watts to play with & that is if the battery is fully charged & the engine RPM's are kept over 4000 RPM's. As the engine RPM's go lower you have0 extra watts to play with, with the bike power usage being more than the charging system can supply at a low idle with the brake lights on.

You could probably run a pair of 35 watt Halogens at high speeds but would really be playing with an eventual dead battery if used at low speeds, or sitting still with the coolingfan& brake lights on.

There are some things you can do to help your situation.. One is to install 2057 rear light bulbs as those are designed for the newer cars & draw slightly less power on the tail light filament, de-activate the front running lights when the driving lights are on, run the driving lights in series at daytime cruise & use a micro relay to bring them back to full current for night time usage (I have had the front passing lamps wired like that on my Harley E/Glide for years & it does work good & significantly lowers the power drain).

In any case I would strongly suggest you install a good voltmeter on your Wing if you add any extra light loads so you can monitor what the system voltage is at ALL times.

On the manual question?-- Probably the best bang for the buck is the Clymer as it gives most things you need to know & is written more for the home mechanic. It is sure nice to also have the Honda manual as it is a little more specific in some areas but is lacking in others. The Clymer is a great home quick look-up guide& anything it doesn't cover that you need can be obtainedon this site as there are a lot of here with the Honda manual.

Twisty
 

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If you just bought a GL1200 then before adding any extra lights do a search of the forum for stator wiring. You need to check a couple of connections now because if they are going bad then the extra light load will cause you a lot a grief.
 

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Thanks for all the responces.:waving:

I was wondering about the lights after reading other threads about the stator and other electrical problems. I will check things out asap.

I am mechanicaly inclined so I am looking forward to doing most of the work on my bike. I may get the Clymer and Honda manuals just to cover everything.
 

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jdf wrote:
Thanks for all the responces.:waving:

I was wondering about the lights after reading other threads about the stator and other electrical problems. I will check things out asap.

I am mechanicaly inclined so I am looking forward to doing most of the work on my bike. I may get the Clymer and Honda manuals just to cover everything.
Jim, extra lights or extra electrical loads shouldn't have any effect on the stator's life. Due to the design of the early Wing charging system ithas a permanent magnet rotor so puts out the same based on RPM whether it has a load on the system or not. The regulator just turns the 3 phase AC generator output into single phase DC & passes the current on to either the bike's electrical loads, battery, or just runs it toground through resistors. It really makes about the same 360 watt output it's just a matter of where it goes (to work or to ground)..

Twisty
 

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Thanks for clarifying that.
 
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