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Hiya Folks,

New member from South Carolina here.

Hopefully, ya'll can help me with a problem I have

I just purchased a 1985 GL1200 from a Gentleman in FLA and the bike was reportedly running as of last week.

When I went to start the bike, we initially got click then nothing. It appears the battery was dead. We charged the battery for a bit and still nothing. The owner wastravelingbut was available by cellphone.

He suggested tapping the starter motor with a hammer to knock the bendix loose. We did this and got a spinning sound from the starter and every so often a couple of attempted turns on the engine. but it still would not crank. We also tried to repeatedly press the start button and got a couple of attempted grunts.

A trickle charger was connected to the battery posts but had not been plugged in since the bike was last run. A automotive battery charger was used to charge it and we also tried to use the higher amperage to try to start the bike. Still Nothing.

We attempted to push start the bike, but did not have the full momentum to kick it over and it stopped dead in its tracks once it was placed in 1st gear.

The bike was loaded up into a truck and transported to SC where the battery has been tested and replaced. The trickle charger has been replaced and the electrical system has been checked accordingly to the service manual.

However, with the bike in Supposed Neutral. All I get is the starter relay clicking and the lights go dim. This will happen every time with the clutch pressed in any gear.

Now, I say Supposed Neutral due to if the bike is in 1st gear and the clutch lever is pressed. The bike will not roll freely. It feels like it is a gear. It is not as hard to push as when the lever is not pressed. Is this normal? I havent ridden in many years but seem to recall that when the clutch lever is pressed the bike should roll freely. Am I right?

I just learned about the hydraulic clutch system versus cable and am trying to check the reservoir, but one of the screws has rounded out and am having trouble getting it opened. (tells me it has not been checked in who knows how long)

But other than the fluid being low, can anyone offer any ideas or suggestions to getting this bike running other than taking it in to a shop?

Thanks

Ron
 

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YOU NEVER NEVER charge a motorcycle battery with a charger made for cars. Max amp 2.5.
When you used the car charger to charge an old and dead battery you probably killed it.

Because your clutch is in same oil as your engine if you let the bike stay for a long period of time and not looking after it, by every now and then starting the engine and let it warm up, your oil becomes “milky” a sort of white creamy layer will be all over everything inside your engine.
Specially between the clutch plates.
Making the clutch become very difficult to disengage and therefore very difficult to change gears.

Changing oil helps a bit.

If I am not wrong, I believe that your bike has a safety feature that does not allow the bike to start if it is in a gear and the clutch can not be disengaged.
Also, I believe that if the side stand is down and you have a gear in, she won’t crank.

A new battery is always dry charged. To wake it up, you add battery acid and let it stay for a while and top up the battery acid again untill it is full.
BUT, the battery is only charged enough to start a bike (without any electrical or mechanical problems). It needs to be charged properly for few hours before it is fully charged.
So, be careful you don’t run the battery down before you have fixed the problem with your clutch etc.

Use jumper cables and a car to start the bike, whilst fixing the problem or you may be looking at a new battery again.

What is the weather like where you are? If it is a bit cold it is not going to help the old oil in your bike.

Also take a look at your spark plugs.
The way the ignition system works is like a water reservoir you need to fill it before emptying it.
The electricity is gathered in your coils before a discharge is made through your plugs.
Unfortunately, if you leave a bike for long and if you have Resistor plugs the last electricity that was gathered in your coil/s, when you turned the ignition off, is still in the coil and slowly leaks through your plug. Occasionally after a while that your bike has been sitting there, the plug dies.
Then after few months you come excited and want to start her off and nothing happens.

Let me know how it goes.
 

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Thanks for the reply.

I did replace the battery with a Gel Cell type and have left it charging overnight, so I know the battery is good to go. I also repalced the trickle charger with e new one and mounted it to the battry as was done before.

I see that there is another thread gong on with the same issue I am seem to be having, but on a different sized Wing.

At the moment the bike is up on the center stand.

So how do I get the clutch to disengage?
 

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Change the oil to correct type.
If you think the bike is in gear, take her off the centre stand. Roll her for a while on her wheels.
Or better let someone in a car tow you on the bike with a rope that you hold and can let go of any time you need to.
BUT be VERY careful.
Get her back in the garage, put her on centre stand.
Pull the clutch in and try to change gear. If need be have someone at the real wheel rock it backwards and forwards until she is in neutral. You know when she is free and in neutral.
 

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Now, I can shift the gears to neutral and free wheeling without pressing the clutch lever. The neutral light will come on and the bike moves freely.

But if I press the lever and place the bike in 1st gear and try to move it. It will catch ona gear, even though I have the clutch lever pressed in
 

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Howdy RonSena and G'Day GL1500SE :waving:You are Both Very Welcome To The Worlds Greatest Goldwing Forum. :clapper:

It's nice to see2 brand new members helpingeach other. :clapper:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:
 

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You attempted to push start the bike by rolling it and then throwing it into first gear. I have tried this as well, and it wont work.

if you try this again, try using second or 3rd gear instead. Has worked for me.

Speedbird
 

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Not trying to start her.
Just want to get some movement in the clutch plates to release them from each other.
If you have opened and seen how a milky clutch plate is stuck to the pressure plate and son on you will realise what I am suggesting to do.
But of course if you want to push start a bike you need much less speed if you put her in second or third gear.
 

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Redwing wrote:
Howdy RonSena and G'Day GL1500SE :waving:You are Both Very Welcome To The Worlds Greatest Goldwing Forum. :clapper:

It's nice to see2 brand new members helpingeach other. :clapper:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:



A BIG THANKS to you.
 

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Thanks for the welcome RedWing.

I am so fed up with this, I think it is time to toss the thing on the trailer and head out for a local Honda Shop. Along with waiting the 3 weeks to get any word..

Got the rounded screw loose and checked the clutch resevoir. Plenty of fluid in there and also checked the front brake reservoir. It actually had more that the clutch so I added a few drops.

Was able to get the starter loose at the cost of a wrung off lower bolt and was able to back it out of the housing just a bit to make sure it was loose and it was. screwed in the top bolt and gave it a shot.. Click - NADA!

I moved the bike around in 2nd & 3rd gear and spent time shifting and moving around the shop. However, the bike still wont move in 1st with the clutch lever pressed in.

So Taheckwithit.. time for the shop to figure it out..

Thanks for the assistance though.



Ron
 

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Is Stokes still the Honda dealer in Charleston? I had good luck with them back in the '70s when I was stationed there. His son was an excellent flat-track rider.
 

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Hi RonSena! It sounds to me that you might have a hydraulic clutch that needs either cleaning out or bleeding. Any air in the system and when you press the lever the clutch won't disengage. Check this out by putting the bike on the centerstand, set the transmission in neutral and see if you can turn the rear wheel by hand. Next put it into first gear, tie the clutch lever down and see if you can turn the rear wheel. The rear wheel should turn freely in both cases. If both of the above check out, let the lever back up and see if you can turn the rear wheel, it should turn with a good deal of effort cranking over the engine.

There is no Bendix in these starters, they have a sprocket and drive a transmission shaft via a chain. There is a sprag clutch on the other end of the chain, basically a one way drive, the starter can turn the engine but when the engine starts the clutch allows the sprocket to freewheel. If you have a case where the starter spring but doesn't crank the engine it's often due to dirty old oil. A flush with new oil and a push start might do the job. You can also try a jumper cable directly from a battery to the positive post on your starter to see if it will turn.

If you want to push start the bike, don't use first gear, it will be a lot easier in 2nd, just pull the clutch in once it fires to keep it from stalling.
 

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exavid wrote:
Hi RonSena! It sounds to me that you might have a hydraulic clutch that needs either cleaning out or bleeding. Any air in the system and when you press the lever the clutch won't disengage. Check this out by putting the bike on the centerstand, set the transmission in neutral and see if you can turn the rear wheel by hand. Next put it into first gear, tie the clutch lever down and see if you can turn the rear wheel. The rear wheel should turn freely in both cases. If both of the above check out, let the lever back up and see if you can turn the rear wheel, it should turn with a good deal of effort cranking over the engine.

There is no Bendix in these starters, they have a sprocket and drive a transmission shaft via a chain. There is a sprag clutch on the other end of the chain, basically a one way drive, the starter can turn the engine but when the engine starts the clutch allows the sprocket to freewheel. If you have a case where the starter spring but doesn't crank the engine it's often due to dirty old oil. A flush with new oil and a push start might do the job. You can also try a jumper cable directly from a battery to the positive post on your starter to see if it will turn.

If you want to push start the bike, don't use first gear, it will be a lot easier in 2nd, just pull the clutch in once it fires to keep it from stalling."
If you did not understand what I said the first time, XAVID has repeated it in his own way:

…... If you have a case where the starter spring but doesn't crank the engine it's often due to dirty old oil. A flush with new oil and a push start might do the job. You can also try a jumper cable directly from a battery to the positive post on your starter to see if it will turn…..

He has also kindly repeated the advise of SPEEDBIRD.

.....If you want to push start the bike, don't use first gear, it will be a lot easier in 2nd, just pull the clutch in once it fires to keep it from stalling..... So thanks xavid for reconfirming the earlier advise.

So howz things now can you get things running?
 

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pidjones,

Stokes is still around as an auto dealer, but the old place on Dorchester Rd is now Champion Honda and thery are expensive as ever. I have been here since 74 and got a 75 CB750 from them. I miss those days.

Exavid and GL1500SE,

Iunderstand what you guys are saying and have tried most except for changing the oil. The engine will turnover when pushing it it 3rd gear.

I was wondering about hooking up a straight connection from the battery to the starter post while the starter is mounted and seeing if the starter motor would spin. Is this safe? I had thought of leaving the ignition off I just want to know if the starter is good. and will react. I had tried something like this on Sunday, but used a smaller guage wire and did not get any reaction.

I am thinking that I have 2 problems based on what I am seeing.

1. The clutch plate or a sensor is engaged and wont let the engine start on it's own.

2. The Starter is bad.

I will get some oil and change it just to rule that out. But otherwise, this puppy is about to take a ride to the shop and let the professionals look at it.

Thanks

Ron
 

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Remove all the spark plugs before trying that, it will be easier on the starter.
Disconnect the cable going to the starter, before using a jumper cable to connect the starter directly to a battery.
If you hear the starter spinning then it works.
If not then there is something wrong with the starter, which you may need to take apart and look at.

So you mean so far you have not been able to crank the engine with the starter?

So when the gear is in 1[sup]st[/sup] and 2[sup]nd[/sup] the engine does not turn? AT ALL or only with the starter?

What about when it is in Neutral? If you can get it in neutral?
 

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RonSena wrote:
Hiya Folks,

New member from South Carolina here.

Hopefully, ya'll can help me with a problem I have

I just purchased a 1985 GL1200 from a Gentleman in FLA and the bike was reportedly running as of last week.

When I went to start the bike, we initially got click then nothing. It appears the battery was dead. We charged the battery for a bit and still nothing. The owner wastravelingbut was available by cellphone.

He suggested tapping the starter motor with a hammer to knock the bendix loose. We did this and got a spinning sound from the starter and every so often a couple of attempted turns on the engine. but it still would not crank. We also tried to repeatedly press the start button and got a couple of attempted grunts.

A trickle charger was connected to the battery posts but had not been plugged in since the bike was last run. A automotive battery charger was used to charge it and we also tried to use the higher amperage to try to start the bike. Still Nothing.

We attempted to push start the bike, but did not have the full momentum to kick it over and it stopped dead in its tracks once it was placed in 1st gear.

The bike was loaded up into a truck and transported to SC where the battery has been tested and replaced. The trickle charger has been replaced and the electrical system has been checked accordingly to the service manual.

However, with the bike in Supposed Neutral. All I get is the starter relay clicking and the lights go dim. This will happen every time with the clutch pressed in any gear.

Now, I say Supposed Neutral due to if the bike is in 1st gear and the clutch lever is pressed. The bike will not roll freely. It feels like it is a gear. It is not as hard to push as when the lever is not pressed. Is this normal? I havent ridden in many years but seem to recall that when the clutch lever is pressed the bike should roll freely. Am I right?

I just learned about the hydraulic clutch system versus cable and am trying to check the reservoir, but one of the screws has rounded out and am having trouble getting it opened. (tells me it has not been checked in who knows how long)

But other than the fluid being low, can anyone offer any ideas or suggestions to getting this bike running other than taking it in to a shop?

Thanks

Ron
Ron, those old GoldWing clutches won't release properly until engine has been run a few minutes & the oil warmed up or at least spun off the clutch plates.. Just start the bike in neutral (if you can get it to turn over correctly)..

Holding the clutch pulled in will by-pass the trans neutral switch & allow cranking with the clutch engaged & the trans in gear..

With the trans in neutral, that by-passes the clutch switch & allows cranking the engine with the clutch engaged..

If you want to push start it,, it will be difficult until the engine has been started & run a few seconds as the clutch won't properly release enough to push with the bike in gear..

I usually pull start from an automobile or other bike.. Place the bike in 5th gear (clutch pulled in),, pull the bike off with a motor vehicle (slowly) then when up to around 10 mph or so let the clutch out.. Make a few turns of the rope around the crash bar then hold the rope end under your L/H foot to the foot peg.. A simple lift of the foot will release the rope in an emergency..

Once started & run for a while the clutch should work good.. A lazy clutch is even normal on a good operating 1200 Wing until it has been started for a few seconds..

If the clutch lever is real soft & moves a long ways before releasing you have air in the system from sitting (a common problem of a 1200 Wing that sits for extended periods).. It is a real bear to bleed those 1200 clutches until you have done it successfully a few times..

To bleed the clutch-- fist turn the handlebars so the clutch master cylinder is at the highest point,, then work the clutch lever until you have some pressure on the system,, then open the bleed screw (lower rear center of the back engine cover accessible from the L/H side),, keep pumping & opening the bleed screw until you have a good firm clutch lever.. If still not a good firm lever feel try rotating the handle bars while pumping,, if still no good clutch feel bleed the large banjo fitting where the line attaches to the master cylinder.. BE VERY CAREFUL of getting any clutch fluid on the bikes paint as it is brake fluid & will ruin paint easily (I usually cover the upper tank area with newspapers then cover those with a couple of plastic garbage bags)

Now on your starter problem.. FIRST, try jumping a large wire (8 gauge or larger)directly from the battery's (+) post directly to the starter's large cable terminal (MAKE DARN SURE the bike is in neutral or the rear wheel is off the ground).. If it then cranks you need to look at the starter relay for corroded inner contacts or other issues, or look at the main 30 amp fuse area for corrosion or burnt connections ( a problematic area on the older Wings)..

If it still won't crank over with a direct jump of the battery (+) to the starter's cable post then suspect a low battery (you seem to have already looked at that area) or a starter problem (usually internal corrosion of the brush plate to the starter housing (another somewhat common problem area).. Just pull the starter out & pull it apart (very easy to do).. Well pulling the starter apart anyhow,, pulling the starter out is a pain but doable yourself..


Added__ you might want to look at the battrey's ground cable connection.. Make sure it has a good CLEAN connection on both ends as that in itself could keep your starter from operating correctly.


Twisty
 

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Ok, I just tried this.

I took a small guage jumper wire and connected one end to the electrical post on the starter and touched the other end to the positive on the battery. Result - Nothing. No arc, spark or reaction from the starter, not even a little bit.

Next I tried a 12v booster box I keep for my RV. I attached the positive to the electrical post on the starter and touched the Negative to the footpeg and the kickstand. Still Nothing.



The bike has not run since I have had it. When I picked it up we were able to hear the starter motor have a high speed whine indicating it was spinning, but not engaging. Then we had tried to push start it down the driveway. But since then I have not been able to get it to make that sound anymore.

I am taking this morning off so I can begin the process of titling and registering this bike in SC. I am also going over to a Honda shop and get some parts. I was supposed to go to a Microsoft Seminar, but I may forego that and work on this if I can get left alone by the wife long enough.

What brand of oil should I use. I know it should be 10w-40 and I have several quarts of Havoline and Quaker State 10w-40laying around. I figure to just use some of it for a shortperiod and then change the oil again in a short time. But what should be the brand of choice for the full 3k miles?

And I have read several posts about removing the starter and have the service manual.So I would need to get some gaskets for the muffler and an oil filter.

What is the best way to remove the bolts holding the muffler so I don't break them off. Should I use some WD40 on them first?

Thanks

Ron
 

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RonSena wrote:
Ok, I just tried this.

I took a small guage jumper wire and connected one end to the electrical post on the starter and touched the other end to the positive on the battery. Result - Nothing. No arc, spark or reaction from the starter, not even a little bit.

Next I tried a 12v booster box I keep for my RV. I attached the positive to the electrical post on the starter and touched the Negative to the footpeg and the kickstand. Still Nothing.



The bike has not run since I have had it. When I picked it up we were able to hear the starter motor have a high speed whine indicating it was spinning, but not engaging. Then we had tried to push start it down the driveway. But since then I have not been able to get it to make that sound anymore.

I am taking this morning off so I can begin the process of titling and registering this bike in SC. I am also going over to a Honda shop and get some parts. I was supposed to go to a Microsoft Seminar, but I may forego that and work on this if I can get left alone by the wife long enough.

What brand of oil should I use. I know it should be 10w-40 and I have several quarts of Havoline and Quaker State 10w-40laying around. I figure to just use some of it for a shortperiod and then change the oil again in a short time. But what should be the brand of choice for the full 3k miles?

And I have read several posts about removing the starter and have the service manual.So I would need to get some gaskets for the muffler and an oil filter.

What is the best way to remove the bolts holding the muffler so I don't break them off. Should I use some WD40 on them first?

Thanks

Ron
Ron you ask...
I took a small guage jumper wire and connected one end to the electrical post on the starter and touched the other end to the positive on the battery. Result - Nothing. No arc, spark or reaction from the starter, not even a little bit.

Next I tried a 12v booster box I keep for my RV. I attached the positive to the electrical post on the starter and touched the Negative to the footpeg and the kickstand. Still Nothing.
That pretty well tells us you either have a dead battery, poor ground cable connection OR a bad starter (check the battery for a charge & the ground cable connection &if OK pull the starter off ..


The bike has not run since I have had it. When I picked it up we were able to hear the starter motor have a high speed whine indicating it was spinning, but not engaging. Then we had tried to push start it down the driveway. But since then I have not been able to get it to make that sound anymore.
That starter spinningwas probably the over-running starter clutch not engaging (not uncommon on a bike that has been sitting for a while).. If it won't spin now (even with a direct jump of battery 12volts)suspect an internal starter brush or brush plate problem..



What brand of oil should I use. I know it should be 10w-40 and I have several quarts of Havoline and Quaker State 10w-40laying around. I figure to just use some of it for a shortperiod and then change the oil again in a short time. But what should be the brand of choice for the full 3k miles?
I won't outright recommend a brand on the Internet (E-Mail me for specific) but any of the name brand 10W40 or 15W50 oils will work for now.. Just be sure it isn't an energy rated oil.. I would recommend you just put fresh 10W40 oil (of your choice) in it for now as you will probably want to change it out a few times in the first few thousand miles.. Once the bike is operating correctly then look into a long term long drain type oil (probably synthetic if you want to go 3000 miles between changes)

And I have read several posts about removing the starter and have the service manual.So I would need to get some gaskets for the muffler and an oil filter.
Yes, new gaskets & some newexhaust studs..

What is the best way to remove the bolts holding the muffler so I don't break them off. Should I use some WD40 on them first?
I don't know about the best but I usually heat the stud first, then as it cools apply some GM heat valve lube to the stud/cyl head area (that will suck the lube in by convection as it cools) .. At that time it should come right out without snapping.. I like the GM heat valve lube as it won't evaporate off on the hot stud like WD-40 or any of the other penetrating lubes do.. DON'T twist it off as it is much easier to work with those studs than drill the remnants out later..

Twisty
 

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I removed the starter and when I opened it up, got a lapful of soot and found the bushings totally worn out. There metal shavings melted across the armature. So I went ahead and ordered a new starter from a local Honda Dealer who does not want to work on the older Wings.

I did not change the oil yet, although most of it drained out when I removed the starter. I have had mud (coffee) that looked better than this stuff. I doubt the oil has been changed in a very long time. It also appears that I will have to use penetrating oil on any nut, bolt, and screw I remove from this bike as they are soft ad prone to breaking off or rounding out.

I am about to become a first time Grandpa on Thursday, instead of next month like expected. So I have to put this project on the backburner til this weekend. Hopefully, the parts will be in by then.

Thanks for the info guys

Ron
 

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Congratulations RonSena! My first granddaughter is a year and a half old now, grandma has become a bit of a problem. I can't get her past any baby stuff in any store we happen to be in. UPS is making a mint off me. I'm seriously thinking about moving 400 miles South so I won't have to drive up and down I-5 every month for grandma to visit the little one. It'll get even worse when the next one shows up in November! Be warned!:goofygrin:
 
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