1985 goldwing ltd

3669 Views 37 Replies 11 Participants Last post by AZgl1800, Feb 13, 2014

hunter27h

Discussion Starter · Aug 26, 2009

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Bagmaster talked me into buying srburton's 1985 goldwing ltd, as a "parts" bike for my 1985 ltd.

After driving up to pickup the bike, and getting it home, I do not have the heart to "part" it out. It has now become the latest challenge, to get it back where it should be, "on the road".

I am in the process of going back over some things that Steve had already done, such as draining the oil, checking for coolant, none there, refilled, new filter, and oil, plus a can of sea foam, put seafoam in the fuel, topped off fuel with 93 octane.

Changed the plugs, one plug did look as if it had never fired.

drained the coolant, refilled with non silicate, coolant, coolant looked good coming out.

chased a loose connection on the starting circuit, found it, cleaned and reconnected, found a loose connector, for the height control, cleaned it and put dielectric grease on it.

pulled the starter relay, cleaned it and replaced the dogbone fuse with a new connector and 30 amp fuse, (relay has to be replaced though, this was temporary fix). Charging seemed to drop of after warming up, so I "temporarily" wired in the voltage regulator that I had previously replaced on my other goldwing, and seemed to resolve that issue, so far two new parts to order, starter relay, and v/r.

Back to the real issue, now, when the bike is cold, it starts good, and seems to run fine, but when it gets to temp, it begins to smoke, light blue tint, I am hoping that is sea foam, but suspect that is not, although it seems to be getting slightly better, after adding the seafoam to the new oil, I have not heard the "lifter" noise again yet, and truthfully the bike seems to be running better.

I have not checked the compression, but Steve said that he had checked that previously with cylinders running around 170.

any thoughts on anything else to do, other than run it? How much running should I do with the seafoam in the oil? I can't put it on the road, until I replace the tires, I started to put air in the front tire, and the valve stem popped off, so I certainly don't trust the tires.
:dude:

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dan filipi

· #2 · Aug 26, 2009

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Smoking blue is oil burning.
Whats the engine history, if it has sat idle for years not run could be sticky rings but with that good compression I tend to doubt it. I would recheck the compression and see if that's for real.
If it had been frozen and broken free improperly an oil ring could have been damaged.

Check around the bike for simple stuff like maybe a crankcase breather sucking in oil or simpler still, too high oil level.

The flat 4 engines are somewhat self healing by putting miles on, could be that's all it needs.

Bike...and Dennis

· #3 · Aug 26, 2009

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Yeah, drive it. I don't think you have an issue with a bike that has been sitting awhile, burning a little oil. It's normal for motors to have to re-seat themselves. And, as you said, it could just be the Sea-Foam.

oharaLTD

· #4 · Aug 26, 2009

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Ride it like you stole it:action:. It will only get better. Aside from that, after you run it, check the plugs again for discoloration. If they look good, and fuel mileage is good, ride it like you stole it.

Bagmaster

· #5 · Aug 26, 2009

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When I went down to check out the Hitchhiker sidecar we started the bike to check it out. It smoked right from the start like a mosquito fogger. I didn't check the smell of it but at the time the color was more white than blue. I don't know if he seafoam in the gas tank at the time or not.

I also didn't check the anti-freeze but we didn't run the bike long enough to let it come up to riding temps.

In the original for sale thread for the bike and sidecar I did post pics and a link to the short video I took of the bike running.

http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/...ts/1200 LTD/?action=view&current=100_1946.flv

AZgl1800

· #6 · Aug 26, 2009

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I don't remember if Sea Foam caused any smoke on my bike or not.

But I can tell you that I ran the bike nearly 500 miles with the Sea Foam in the oil before it got changed out.

Fresh oil and filter, both engine and clutch worked much better than before.

Just ride it, that seems to be a miracle cure for these Goldwing engines.

Rooty Kazooty

· #7 · Aug 26, 2009

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I have one thing to add to all this discussion,:bowing::bowing::bowing::bowing::bowing:for NOT parting out such a gem!!! Well,...maybe that's 5 things!!!

hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #8 · Aug 27, 2009

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Thanks for all of the replies, I am very satisfied, now that "whistles" will come back, I have ordered new voltage regulator, and starter relay, and will go through all of the wiring connectors before I install them.

Since Steve replaced the tank, I am going to probably remove the faring to investigate more closely other connector issues, but the latest discovery is that after warming up to temperature, 5-6 bars, idle would only drop from 1600 to 1250-1300, I could push the linkage back and get it down to about 1150, so I used the screw to drop it down to 900-950, at that speed, I could readily see that 1-3 cylinders were not producing combustion, running on only 2-4, I pulled each of the plug wires, 1-3, made no difference, but I could hear spark, 2-4 would shut down the engine. I pulled all 4 plugs, 1-3 sooty, but not wet, or oily. 2-4 looked normal for new plugs, not wet or oily either. When I was doing this, the bike was still fairly cool, so I felt the header pipes, 2-4 too hot to touch, 1 too hot to touch, but 3 totally cool. I used a "stethescope" on each of the 4 injectors, and could hear the clicking operation, so they are all at least operating, and by the way, the smoking, is nothing compared to what you and I first saw Michael, and before I realized that it was only running on two cylinders, I had run it up to fan temp a couple of times, I believe that the engine is good, and don't think there is a ring problem, I think, that maybe the bike is out of timing, Steve said that he had changed the timing belts, so unless someone can tell me different, that is where I am headed, remove the radiator and pull the timing belt covers???

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hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #9 · Aug 27, 2009

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Thanks for the kind words!:dude::dude:

Ben

hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #10 · Aug 27, 2009

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But I can tell you that I ran the bike nearly 500 miles with the Sea Foam in the oil before it got changed out.

Thanks! One of my real questions, I think that I will drain the oil again and replace it with out the seafoam in the oil, and probably continue to run it in the gas. All of the valve noise seems to be gone.

:dude:

Ben

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hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #11 · Aug 27, 2009

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Well, I pulled the timing belt covers, and it "appears" that the belts were installed correctly, possibly a tooth off. I am going to reinstall and retension them, but now I am trying to find the timing cover for the flywheel, is it a plug, with ears, and a small vacuum line in the center behind the fuel filter? on top of the engine? If that checks out then, I will put all back together, and if problem is still there, try something else. 1 and 3 are not combusting, and I have spark, and apparantly fuel, don't know that for sure yet, but I hear the injector clicks

:dude:

hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #12 · Aug 28, 2009

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Okay, I found the flywheel plug, it is the plug with two ears and a small rubber hose coming out the top, vacuum or breather? On with replacing the belts, found a great tutorial, not for 1200, but process the same, according to the manual.http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=17422&forum_id=9&jump_to=165398#p165398

hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #13 · Aug 28, 2009

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Got "whistles" all back together, followed the excellent tutorial, put more seafoam in the gas, and fired her up.

I don't know for certain that the timing belts were off a tooth or not, but I did notice after following the process in the tuttorial that the belts were a lot tighter than they were when I opened it up cold, the tensioners did their job, after following the tutorial.

I am expecting parts in to resolve the rest of the electrical, then I can run it more without worrying about the voltage drops. But overall it seems to run better everytime I start it up, so maybe the seamfoam is doing it's job.

hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #14 · Sep 1, 2009

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Got the v/r and starter relay in today, installed (soldered) removed the yellow conducter from the main harness of the v/r and soldered it as well as it had been melting the connector. after replacing both parts, reads 14.5-6 at the battery, slightly lower than the digital dash meter, ran it up to fan temperature stayed at the same voltage through out. Charging issues gone for now on "Whistles"

Ben:dude::dude:

Bagmaster

· #15 · Sep 1, 2009

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Way to go!!! Might be riding it before the summer is over.

hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #16 · Sep 3, 2009

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Too impatient! I rolled the ltd off the trailer after installing two new tires, cranked it rode it around the block, still naked of course (the bike)and it was of course a gentle ride, as it only has front brakes, it is getting better and better, still working on the rust, and cleaning chrome, but there is a wee bit of light at the end of the tunnel.

I keep looking at the fuel pump install, something is just not right, Steve replaced the old fuel pump with the "car" fuel pump, and although that looks good, it is the routing of the gas lines, doesn't look anything like the other ltd.

I also have to do something about the rear brake line, as the connection that went to the side car, was "temporarily" plugged and that is the culprit, leaking fluid, so I will remove the connector and find the proper size plug, before I give up and replace the brake line.

I still have a lot of cleaning and polishing to do before I start putting the plastic back on, but it's getting there

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Bagmaster

· #17 · Sep 3, 2009

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hunter27h wrote:

Too impatient! I rolled the ltd off the trailer after installing two new tires, cranked it rode it around the block, still naked of course (the bike)and it was of course a gentle ride, as it only has front brakes, it is getting better and better, still working on the rust, and cleaning chrome, but there is a wee bit of light at the end of the tunnel.

I keep looking at the fuel pump install, something is just not right, Steve replaced the old fuel pump with the "car" fuel pump, and although that looks good, it is the routing of the gas lines, doesn't look anything like the other ltd.

I also have to do something about the rear brake line, as the connection that went to the side car, was "temporarily" plugged and that is the culprit, leaking fluid, so I will remove the connector and find the proper size plug, before I give up and replace the brake line.

I still have a lot of cleaning and polishing to do before I start putting the plastic back on, but it's getting there

Well, don't forget I need that "T" connector and the quick dis-connect fitting on it.

hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #18 · Sep 3, 2009

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that "T" connector has a plug in it with brake fluid going through it, remember they cut the brake line to put it in, but fortunately it appears to be a standard brake line, and as much as I like you already, you are going to have to get your own "T" connector, cut your brake line and flare it, and there was no "quick" connect on it just a "wrong" thread bolt stuck in it. I will contribute $2.00 towards a new "t" connector, but nothing towards the labor:dude::dude:

I spent most of the day rerouting the gas lines, I have yet to figure out why it had a 4 way connector stuck in between the shut off valve and the fuel pump, one of the 4 ran to the fuel pressure regulator, and one of them ran to the fuel return on the tank. I removed the 4 way connector, ran a new hose directly from the shut off to the fuel pump, ran a new hose from the pressure regualtor to the return on the tank, eliminating the 4 way connector and the extra hose, I am still scratching my head as to why it was there. I just followed the hoses on ltd #1 (Bells) which is still untouched in that area, and made #2 (Whistles) look the same. Strangly enough, it cranked right up and seems to run somewhat better. Lots of chrome polished today, I had help!

:dude::dude::dude:

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Bagmaster

· #19 · Sep 3, 2009

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hunter27h wrote:

that "T" connector has a plug in it with brake fluid going through it, remember they cut the brake line to put it in, but fortunately it appears to be a standard brake line, and as much as I like you already, you are going to have to get your own "T" connector, cut your brake line and flare it, and there was no "quick" connect on it just a "wrong" thread bolt stuck in it. I will contribute $2.00 towards a new "t" connector, but nothing towards the labor:dude::dude:

I spent most of the day rerouting the gas lines, I have yet to figure out why it had a 4 way connector stuck in between the shut off valve and the fuel pump, one of the 4 ran to the fuel pressure regulator, and one of them ran to the fuel return on the tank. I removed the 4 way connector, ran a new hose directly from the shut off to the fuel pump, ran a new hose from the pressure regualtor to the return on the tank, eliminating the 4 way connector and the extra hose, I am still scratching my head as to why it was there. I just followed the hoses on ltd #1 (Bells) which is still untouched in that area, and made #2 (Whistles) look the same. Strangly enough, it cranked right up and seems to run somewhat better. Lots of chrome polished today, I had help!

:dude::dude::dude:

PM sent about the roll of pennies.:shock::shock::shock::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1:

Some sidecar owners install an aux fuel tank to extend their mileage range with a sidecar. Maybe that's what that 4-way was originally set up for.

hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #20 · Sep 4, 2009

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I accept that, and will stick with that "story", but I promise that it was a scary looking thing.

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