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I tried to post this yesterday.



I took a short ride (very short). The bike made a few brrap braap noises from below the seat area. I thought it was the centerstand dragging. Then it made a continous grinding noise and lost drive power.



The engine still purrs fine and all is quiet in neutral. I gear there is a grinding noise that increases in tempo when shifting from 1 thru OD.



The bike can be easily pushed while in any gear with the clutch fully engaged(emitting the grinding noise of course).



The bike has about 38,000 miles on it. I had the rear tire changed this summer. I had to return the bike to the shop because the rear brakes didn't work. They indicated a sheared caliper pin. I suspect they are the root cause of my problems.



What are the likely problems and cost of DIY repair???



Thanks
 

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I am trying to decipher what you are saying so we need a little clarification:



1. I gear there is a grinding noise that increases in tempo......

Do you mean youHEAR a grinding noise?



2. You said it lost drive power but you can still drive it?



3. Bike can be easily pushed with clutch fully engaged. You have the clutch lever out and you can still push the bike easily? Or do you mean when you dis-engage the clutch, by pulling the clutch lever in, you can push the bike?



4. Brakes didn't work. "they indicated a sheared caliper pin"? What caliper pin? Can you take a picture of it and post it?



5. the only real hint here is that you had the rear tire changed this summer. Who actually unbolted the rear wheel and changed the tire? You? A local shop? When the rear wheel was off and just prior to mounting it back onto the bike did you clean and lube the splines with Moly 60 paste and are you sure the rear wheel was installed correctly? The 1200's are known to wear out the rearsplines which means the wheel is no good anymore and has to be replaced.
 

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w/o a doubt sounds like the driven flange has completley stripped and will need replacement,either the flange was lubed at the tire change or was excessively worn when the change was done
hopefully the splines on the final drive weren't hurt,but then again that may be toast too,only way to find out is to remove the rear tire assembly and check,easy enough to do on the centerstand in your garage
 

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Cheezyryder wrote:
I tried to post this yesterday.



I took a short ride (very short). The bike made a few brrap braap noises from below the seat area. I thought it was the centerstand dragging. Then it made a continous grinding noise and lost drive power.



The engine still purrs fine and all is quiet in neutral. I gear there is a grinding noise that increases in tempo when shifting from 1 thru OD.



The bike can be easily pushed while in any gear with the clutch fully engaged (emitting the grinding noise of course).



The bike has about 38,000 miles on it. I had the rear tire changed this summer. I had to return the bike to the shop because the rear brakes didn't work. They indicated a sheared caliper pin. I suspect they are the root cause of my problems.



What are the likely problems and cost of DIY repair???



Thanks
Since it makes the sound while you're pushing around the bike, have someone stand close to it and try to figure out if it is just the rear end. If it is, and you go the ebay route, a good final drive goes for $100 or less including a driven flange. If you're lucky, you can get an entire assembly(final drive, driven flange ,driveshaft and yoke) for the same price.
If it's a rear wheel, ebay $50 or less.If you're lucky, the rear rotor still on it.
If you need a rear caliper, ebay $20 or less.

But there's no point in buying stuff you might not need. Take it apart first and inspect what you got. By the way, I got a bunch of spare parts if you need anything let me know. cya
 

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1. I gear there is a grinding noise that increases in tempo......

Do you mean you HEAR a grinding noise?

Yes.



2. You said it lost drive power but you can still drive it?

I didn't mean to imply that. The bike was driving just fine; then make the grinding noise and lost forward momentum and coasted to a complete stop. The motor runs and sounds fine in neutral.



3. Bike can be easily pushed with clutch fully engaged. You have the clutch lever out and you can still push the bike easily? Or do you mean when you dis-engage the clutch, by pulling the clutch lever in, you can push the bike?

Actually I meant with the clutch fully engaged; however, it pushes just as easily with the clutch fully engages or released. It is just quieter with the clutch lever pulled in.


4. Brakes didn't work. "they indicated a sheared caliper pin"? What caliper pin? Can you take a picture of it and post it?

I returned the bike and the fixed the issue. My understanding is that the pin that holds the caliper to the rear wheel was broken and they replaced it with a good one.


5. the only real hint here is that you had the rear tire changed this summer. Who actually unbolted the rear wheel and changed the tire? You? A local shop? When the rear wheel was off and just prior to mounting it back onto the bike did you clean and lube the splines with Moly 60 paste and are you sure the rear wheel was installed correctly? The 1200's are known to wear out the rear splines which means the wheel is no good anymore and has to be replaced.

I took the entire bike to a local motorcycle repair shop and they removed the wheel and removed the tire from the wheel. They then remounted a new tire to the wheel and reinstalled the whole assembly. I don't know what they did or didn't do.

I will just have to disassemble the mess and check it out, thanks for the responses.

Tony
 

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I don't understand about the brake. I've had my wheels and brakes apart so many times...

...I don't know what pin the shop is referring to. I suspect they just left something loose, and now you are going to pay for their incompetence.
 
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