[Brian_Taylor69]

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good eveining all I have read many topics on this problem Im having,, and so many within charging diogonissis , ok my problem, Our 1986 Aspencade SEI , I replaced the former battery last year when we purchased this bike it had a HD battery in it , ok I went with a walmart one like 100 dollars ,well we went for a ride and getting onto the interstate I punched it pretty good and turns out my walmart battery was a bit smaller and slid back and pos touched the frame ,,direct short , ok then i knew the rectifier was burnt and replaced it ,replaced the battery ,it was dead, now it still wont charge the bike should I replace the stator and what is the correct way to test it i have read so many ways, whats the correct way, and is this the only other reason my system wont charge it reads 11.7 while riding and drops to 8.0 at idle,



please help



Brian

 

[DaveO430]

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There is only one way to test the stator, here it is.
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=50062&forum_id=1&jump_to=500321#p500321
While doing that check the connections of the 3 yellow wires at the stator plug and the regulator and cut out the connectors and solder the wires. Also check the connections on the starter solenoid for burning.

 

[ARKnapp]

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A dead short to the positive terminal to the frame is a load at infinity. While the amps are loading up any fuse would blow, but there are none. Any transient currents could cause induction to a wire in parallel and take out the fused portion.

Since the motor is turning the alternator is turning and doing its thing, when the short takes place it loads up the alternator, the rectifier and the regulator may take a hit.

Test the alternator
Test the rectifier
Test the regulator
Test all current carrying conductors, joints and devices connected.

Shorting the battery can allow a 500 A inrush of current for a short time, the sudden large amount of amps can play havoc with anything that is on electrically.

So take your time and test everything...coils, radio, ...usually light bulbs will be a bit brighter afterwards, if so they are about to die.

This all could take place, but it depends on the short, the interval of time, the strength of the battery.

And as you already know the battery can't withstand this load, because of heat that the many traveling electrons create.

Above all be meticulous and work through everything

Sorry about the potential bad news, but we are near the end of the ride season, this may help. If you do not get all the **** things that can take place, these things become gremlins over time.

 

[Brian_Taylor69]

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is it common to know the stator is bad by removing the neg lead from the battery while the engine is running , if so ,(my Bike dies immediatly) when its removed,I have heard of this on cars , generaly they stay running if the terminal is removed with a goodalternator, ,,should this bike continue to run once the battery cable is removed???

 

[DaveO430]

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First thing, don't ever do that, you can fry electronics. I don't know as I have never tried that.

 

[bagelboy]

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I believe it should, the alternator is supposed to pick up the charge.

 

[ARKnapp]

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A good system, both the battery and the alternator are supplying energy with the bike running

The battery is pure DC, the alternator is wavy DC

Rectifiers are semi conductor and the result is DC that still is a bit wavy as the rectifier clips more or less the tops off the wave form that the AC section of the alternator produces.

The battery acts like a filter to clean up the DC ripple to a DC straight line.

Still with me? Picture these lines and waves on a oscilloscope, this tester reveals the voltage on a grid as waves , sine wave and straight lines with DC.

The alternator , an AC machine, makes that AC at various frequency ranges as RPM goes up and down. Then that rectifier clips this frequency as best it can to develop a some what straight line with low waves.

As long as the battery is in the system all is good since it is filtering the voltage.

Remove it with the bike running and then the wavy DC is no longer filtered and all components receive this voltage that contains an AC component and the mainly 2 voltages, battery and alternator are not equal and with the peaks in the AC too much power and things can burn up.

Have you ever heard of RMS, root mean square, simply this is when the AC is equivalent to DC in power. A sine wave goes up, past the center line then down as much as it went up. This repeats 60 or 50 times a second for 60 Hz and 50 Hz power.

The math is the power produced under the wave form and that AC wave form = the DC voltage, or power at RMS, another way to see this,

Take the plugs in your walls at home, in NA, that is said to be 120 V and that voltage is equal to the equivalent DC voltage or RMS

Alternators deliver 3 kinds of power, pure, reactive and apparent, as bike owners we are interested in pure, the watts. This power is the smaller amount.

With the battery out, the AC side can take over and that is what you cannot tolerate.

The alternator is not protected from this happening because it is directly coupled to the engine. As the engine rotates the alternator rotates and until the wires break or burn amps and volts are produced until too many, too low a resistance and kiss that machine good buy.

Do yourself a good turn, never remove the battery with the bike running.

Cars are different than older 1000, 1100, 1200 because the regulator in cars can isolate the alternator. Alternators in cars can get retained magnetism flux and when this happens the cars can still run with the batteries out.

 

[Brian_Taylor69]

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Dave,

I done the stator test and clipped all 3 yellow wires comming directey from the stator and done a voltage check with AC and they read as follows at 3000 rpms 16.5 -18.2 & 20.4 this does mean the stator needs to be replacedthey need to be at least 50 volts ac @ 3000rpm?

 

[neoracer]

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sounds like the stator is shot if your ac voltage check on a-b,a-c,b-c has been done corrcetly
only other choice besides pulling engine and replacing stator is the "poorboy" which is what i would reccomend

the poorboy does present some clearance problems with the TPS but its not something that cant be overcome