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The Paladin
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A few months back I bought this Wing (in subject line) and it was running fine (it had 57000 original miles on it). After a month or two of using it, one day I went to start it to ride home after work and the battery was dead. I push/jumped it and road home. It worked great the next week and then did the same thing again in my driveway. I push/jumped it again and it worked great for another week and then did it again. I decided the battery was the problem (it was indeed old) and replaced it. Ran great for a few more weeks and then, last weekend, I was leaving a Walmart and it did it again, even with the new battery. I push/jumped it and this time it did start, but the electronics are/were "wigging out" and it was misfiring like crazy (I assume due to the electronics problem) and I was barely able to get it home. I have read online about this bike having wiring problems and/or stator problems and I am just wondering if anyone might know just what's up do I don't go about replacing something that doesn't need replacing (esp. something as painful to replace as the stator). Thanks!

= = ==> Mark
 

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Honda Guru
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Mark...
this has been 'hashed and re-hashed' many times before. If you GOOGLE 'GL1200 stator' you'll receive hundreds of hits concerning replacing the stator, what kind of stator to use, the Honda lifetime warranty, using a car alternator, doing it DIY, diagosis of the system, etc.
Anyway... to start with, a question I have concerns your driving habits. If you are a 'short run' driver (meaning 2 or 3 miles to the store-shut down the bike, restart and go home 2 or 3 miles- and never get the bike warm) you might be the cause of the battery going dead. The action of starting the engine takes a lot out of the battery. It takes some time charging the battery to replace what's been used to start the engine.
Now, if that's not the case then you should know that all that's been said about GL1200's having stator problems is TRUE!!! They all have stator problems of one kind or another. The earlier model GL's aren't so prone to stator problems but it can happen... but the 1200's do have failure rates that are just about 100%... so if it hasn't failed yet, it's gonna!!
Like I said... GOOGLE 'GL1200 stator' and you'll find more than you can imagine!
 

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Mark -

One of the 1200's known problms is the chargine system.

It's failure PRONE and #1 not easy to fix, and #2 not chep to fix using mother Honda parts.

One problem is the disconnect clip going from the alt. to the bike wiring. The connector gets hot and fries itself.
Easily fixed by chopping the connector clip out and hardwiring the 3 wires in.

Next is the alternator/stator. It can be augmented by mounting a car alternator into to the bike. The alternator mounts on top of the engine and behind the radiator.

I'm here looking fot that info, and being a machinist, I will be making a kit or two if your interested in doing this method to fix it.

Any extra lighting and electrical toys added to the 1200 should be elimanated while using the stock charging system. As I remember the bile uses say 50 amps and the charging system is designed to supply all that but little more - thus the overworked stators and fried connectors.

The automobile alternator should supply enough juice to light any extra toys and still keep the ol girl charged and ready.

Let me know if your interested in a kit - I will see what the boss will want to make the kits.

I may even do a little photo/video guide.
 

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Some quick checks will help narrow down the problem.
Your problem doesnt sound like a bad stator but it could be running at a reduced output on it's way out.

1. Check running voltage at the battery, should be around 14.5 volts
2. Check plug with 3 yellow wires to left of the battery for overheating. Most bypass this plug all together by soldering the wires together.
3. Check stator for shorts to ground, there should be no continuity to ground on any of the yellow wires going to the stator.
4. Check running voltage output on each yellow wire while unplugged from the harness, there should be 40-60 volts A/C to ground.

These checks are the first things to do before condemning the stator.
While your in there, check the obvious stuff like dirty battery terminals, loose or dirty frame ground etc.
 

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The Paladin
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Good grief! Thanks everyone, I can't believe the number, level and speed of responses I have received to this post already! I must apologize for posting this so soon. I was so bummed my bike was dead that I was trying to get any and all help I could before fully diagnosing the problem.

In light of all that, I finally got some time to do some diagnosis and testing today and it has raised some additional questions and changed my original ones, so here goes.

I have eliminated the stator for the time being as I ended up doing those same tests that Dan described. What I am wondering is, I may have an intermittent ignition switch problem and I am wondering about shooting a little WD-40 into the ignition key slot, wise or not so wise?

Next, what should the minimum charging voltage be? I get around 14.5v when the fog lights are off, but when they're on, it gets around 13.8v. Is this a problem?

I also did the charging system leakage test described in the Haynes-type manual that I have and it shows I have leakage. Will either the DC or EC wiring harness replacements likely fix this problem (I disconnected, cleaned and reconnected a bunch of plugs/wires today and the bike started and ran fine)?

I also found I have a very slow oil leak that appears to be coming from the shift lever, where it connects into the engine. How hard (what all has to be done) to replace the seal on that or do whatever to stop the leak (I sure hope it doesn't mean I have to pull the engine)?

Finally, there are a few "things" on the bike that I do not know what they are. I will be uploading pictures of them soon (I was going to do that now, but my hosting provider did not renew my product so I have no web site now!!) and hope to get an idea of what they are/do. Thanks again everyone!

= = ==> Mark
 

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Hello,

Sounds like very similar symptoms to what happened to my aspy, it is the failure of the dog bone 20amp fuse, situated to the right of the battery, under the starter solerniod.

its a common problem, check the wiring around the fuse, and have the fuse replaced with a 20amp blade fuse.

as advised wouldn't hurt to have the 3 yellow wires to the left of the battery soldered together too.

good luck.
 

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ooops you are dead right tricky, thanks.
 

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1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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It sounds like you bike is charging so I think your main problem is the 30 amp dogbone fuse on the starter relay. It can look good but be cracked and cause the problems your describing, especialy the electronics going "wierd".

It's an easy fix, just clip the 2 red wires that are on the front, right side of the selinoid,(feeds from the regulator),solder a 30amp inline fuse holder to them and on the other end of the fuse holder crimp/solder a round connector. Connect it to the "hot" side of the selinoid and you're in buisness!
 

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Shooting the WD-40 into the ignition switch won't do a thing except make the key easier to turn. The electrical portion of the ignition switch is physically separate, and isolated from the mechanical portion. The lock cylinder turns the elecrical contacts which are at the "bottom" of the mechanism.

A good idea is to remove the switch entirely, take it to your bench, and give the contacts a thorough cleaning. Can be done with very little disassembly, and a 10mm wrench.
 

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The Paladin
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Discussion Starter #11
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Thanks everyone! I'll pop the ignition switch out and clean it then. On the fuse, unless I'm missing something, I think it's already been changed to a blade type fuse. I'll put up a photo of it next. I finally got my web site back, so here are the photos I have questions about:

This photo is under my seat. The black box looks like it's either for the radio or the CB, anyone know for sure? The left bottom is labeled ANT and the right-bottom is labeled Power. The arrow in the photo points to a set of wires, one of which is routed toward the battery but has been clipped or broken off. My radio and CB work fine, so I'm not sure what the thing is. Also, what is the big red thing that looks like a break light out of place? It has a relay switch in it that clicks when my ignition is on, but the bike is not running and I am pressing either of the brakes.



This photo is of my left handlebar. What is the thing the arrow is pointing to and what's it for?


This last photo is of my left fairing. The two switches on the bottom control my fog lights, but the two switches on the top are wired, but I can't find anything they do. Anyone know (I know this is a long shot as it looks after-market, but I thought I'd try)?
 

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Calling this aftermarket is just using another word for homemade.

I'm guessing the switches are auxiliary lights that may no longer be present.

The CB/Radio/?? under the seat, probably related to the pulsar.

As far as the pulsar goes.... http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/4534.html
 

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The Paladin
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Discussion Starter #13
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Thanks RGBeard, can't believe I didn't think of Google!

I still have two questions that I'm hoping someone can help me with.

1.) What should the minimum charging voltage be? I get around 14.5v when the fog lights are off, but when they're on, it gets around 13.8v. Is this a problem?

2.) I also found I have a very slow oil leak that appears to be coming from the shift lever, where it connects into the engine/transmission. How hard (what all has to be done) to replace the seal on that or do whatever to stop the leak (I sure hope it doesn't mean I have to pull the engine)?

Thanks!
 

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Guru
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If your charging over 14 volts with lights off, your doing o.k. It will drop as you draw current for lights etc. Buy a battery tender & hard wire it to your battery. Hide it under your seat & have the plug tucked somewhere where you can pull it out to plug it in when you park. This will help your battery stay pumped to max as a wing charging system is not fast.

Your oil leak can be repaired with an "O" ring. I dont think that a retainer clip holds it in, I think you pop the old one out & pop a new one in.

Are you aware that this site has a free downloadable manual which is supplied by one of our members at no cost? Your on the right track & I think you are going to get your wing dialed in soon. Although your wing is prone to stator failure, you have a very well built machine there, It will last for years!
 

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I just fixed the same small oil leak on my bike. It is just an oil seal that needs to be replaced. It cost me less than $5 for the part. Biggest hassle is moving everything out of the way (engine guards, etc.) but the seal itself takes no time at all to replace.
 

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The Paladin
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Thanks 1200keylowatt & hatchetman, good to know!
 

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The Paladin
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Discussion Starter #17
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1200keylowatt or hatchetman (or anyone),

do you have a part number for the shift lever seal/o-ring for my 1986 GL1200A? I can't find it for the life of me online or in my Clymer manual. It is referenced in many different posts online, but I cannot find a single post with the part number! Thanks.
 

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Hey, OriginalPaladin, you can go to the 'Referance and FAQ' forum and download ALL the manuals, parts lists, shop manuals etc for your ride for free. Even has detailed wiring diagrams etc. these are a great help in figurung stuff out!

Todd
 

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Honda still has the shift seal for around $3 you can order from your local Honda dealer or hondadirectlineparts. The only thing I took off was the was the shift lever, no bars, exhaust or anything else. I ran a screw into the rubber in the middle of the seal and pulled it out. Put some tape around the knurl on the shaft so you don't screw up the new seal and just press it back in with a socket close to the same ID. It's tight but only takes 10 minutes.
 
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