[sportster 70]

imported post

WHATS UP FELLOW WINGERS, THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP WITH MY Q/A ON MY WING:weightlifter:I NOW HAVE IT RUNNING . I TOOK ALL THE CARBS APART AND TOOK MY DIGITAL CAMERA AND TOOK PICS THE WHOLE TIME TRU. MADE IT EASYER TO PUT ALL THINGS BACK TOGETHER( MY MEMORIE ISNT AS SHARP AS IT ONCE WAS,TEEN YEARS YOUKNOW) :cooldj:IT STARTS UP AND PURRS LIKE A KITTEN NOT A MISS. MY NEXT QUESTION IS THE CLUTCH. ITS HYDEDROLIC. HOW DO I BLEED THIS CLUTCH?IVE NEVER HAD ONE ON ANY OF MY BIKES,ALWAYS CABLE. THE OWNER SAID ALL THESE THINGS WORKED WHEN HE PARKED IT.NO SIGNS OF ROTTON SEALS, LEAKS,ECT. THE BACK BRAKE IS ALSO MUSHY. NO BRAKE.:doh:MY BOOK SHOULD BE COMING SOON ,I JUST HATE TO SIT AND WAIT YOU KNOW:cooler:ANY HELP ON THIS SUBJECT WOULD BE GREATLY THANKED:12ltd:IN THE WIND ALWAYS, SPORTSTER (GOD BLESS ALL OF YOU ALLWAYS,RIDE SAFE AND KEEP AN EYE ON THEIR EYES, KEEPS ME SAFE)

 

[TOJ]

imported post

Sportster 70

This is how I did my clutch bleeding. I let gravity do it. Just open the bleed screw and keep the master cyl full. I stopped when there was all new brake fluid in the system. Becarefull , cover the bike in case brake fluid spills.

TOJ

 

[axelwik]

imported post

Yeah, it's sometimes difficult to bleed them.

The way I do it is to first use a syringe connected to some clear vinyl hose and connect it to the bleed port. Open the bleed port slightly and push some new brake fluid into it until you're filling the reserviour at the clutch lever.

Close the bleed port, disconnect the syringe, but leave the hose attached (and the end pointed away from the bike).

Now pull the clutch lever in and hold it. While holding it in, momentarily open and close the bleed port, then let go of the lever. Do this several times until it feels like you have good clutch action. Never let go of the lever with the bleed port open! Keep the reserviour full while you're doing this.

 

[exavid]

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Bleeding the clutch can be a bear at times, just takes perseverance. It would be a very good idea to replace all the brake and clutch fluid, the stuff accumulates moisture and can corrode the components. It would be a good idea to look at the brake calipers, if any of them have uneven wear on the pads, if one pad of a pair is much thinner than the other it's likely that the caliper is either frozen or on it's way. It's important that the calipers are free to center on the disk.

 

[Gambler]

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one thing, bleed the master first. fill the resavoir, squeeze the lever several times, then crack the banjo bolt at the master. repeat until solid fluid comes out. of course cover any paint you want to keep, and wear eye protection. also if you wrap a paper towell around the banjo fitting, you will keep the fluid from spraying everywhere.

after that you can bleed the lines and slave cylinder. gravity works, also you can crack the bleeder and squeeze the lever. hold in and close the bleeder. repeat till solid fluid comes out.

remember dot 4 fluid only.

 

[SHREK snr]

imported post

Sporster 70 you have a 1200 I not a1100 , try tieing back the clutch leaver over night also put some weight on the rear foot brake and let gravity do the rest. Next morning see if you clutdh and brake any better.:waving::waving::waving::waving: