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I was wondering if anyone knew any secrets about these bikes smoking on startup. It appears to be a blue haze when I start the bike up so it appears to be oil smoke. I figured it was the valve seals. I just replaced them, I used the Viton seals. After replacing them, I started the bike 12-15 times, no smoke, I was excited! Now all of a sudden, its back smoking again. I am only moving it around my garage and yard this last couple of weeks. It seems to really smoke when I have it running only for a few minutes at a time, short runs. I have not driven it since I replaced the valves seals, just run it in short bursts. But before, if I drove it around for a while and parked it, it wouldn't smoke on the next startup.

I was just wondering if anyone knew of the possiblilty of oil getting introduce through the intake manifold or somewhere else that I can check or repair. I haven't had the bike very long so I don't know the engine that well yet.

I have heard about leaving the bike parked on the center stand, but that didn't work before as far starting and having it not smoke.

Just to let you all know, I am not loosing antifreeze.
 

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It seems like it's just the nature of the beast. How did you get the valve springs off without pulling the heads?
 

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Parking on the side stand or center? Did you check the valve stems for corrosion..will chew up a seal in an instant
 

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I have a tool that compresses the springs without removing the head. You can get it a any local automotive parts store. Before removingthe springs, you have to put compressed air in the cylinder. Have to be carefull not to put to much in there, I used 80 PSI. It keeps the valves from falling into the cylinder. Some guys fill the cylinder with rope. I like the compressed air, much quicker as long as you have the adaptor to fit the spark plug hole.

The valves steams looked clean. I was thinking one of the valve seals came off the seal boss but a friend of mine thought that couldn't happen. The valves seamed to be tight in the guides but can't really tell with the valve seated against it's seat.
 

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Smoking is normal due to the engine being flat & oil being able to get past the rings.

For best results, before you put the bike on the stand, shut it off & keep it upright for 30 seconds to allow the oil to return to the bottom. Park your wing on the center stand when ever its going to sit for a day or over night.
 

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It is not the valve seals that leak and cause startup smoke. When the bike is parked on the side stand, some of the oil that is splashed around in the engine drips into the left cylinders because they are now tilted to catch a little oil. That's how gravity works. The amount of smoke varies depending on where your pistons stop. If you park it on the center stand, the oil drains straight down instead of into your cylinders.

John
 

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Does anyone know if the bikes did this when they were new? Mine still does it if I park it on the center stand. Is it worth putting a set of new pistion rings in? I assume I can put a new set of rings in it without pulling the engine.
 

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Nope, you have to split the motor to do the rings, which means pulling the motor, and they are still available from Honda, but they are not cheap. I have heard from guys who have low mileage and guys who have high mileage and everyone tells me the same, that they sometimes smoke on start up for a few minutes. It can be embarrassing sometimes.:blushing:
 

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Try replacing the valve guides along with the seals and I think you will find your problem solved. Wings did not do this to any noticeable extent when new, and then only when parked on the side stand, as some have mentioned.
 

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A compression test will tell you what your rings are like. All plugs out and throttle wide open for max air durring test. If you see numbers from 150 to 170 you have a very good engine. Compression can also fail due to poor valce seating as well.

what brand of oil are you useing & how old is it? Before you change your oil, put around 6 oz of sea foam in your oil & run it for 100 miles. this will help clean out the inside of your engine. than change your oil & try a good 10 or 15 W 40 diesel oil. The diesel oil is high in detergents & will also scrub your engine.
 

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I am using Valvoline 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil. Just changed it lastnight.

I bought the bike and rode around for 500 miles before doing anything to it. I was told that all the fluids were changed right before I bought it. However, I just changed the oil lastnight and was shocked how black it was and how thin it was also. I think someone put thin oil in there because it was turning over so slow. I fixed the starter and that problem is gone. I put 4.5 oz of sea foam in it last night when I put the fresh oil in it. I am going to run it for 100 miles and change it again. A small bit of a surprise and emberisment at the same time, It smokes a lot less on start up and it shifts so much smoother with the new oil in it.Emberisment because I should have changed the oil before comming here asking questions, I trusted the oil was new. I guess I am going through and changing all the fluids now. Someone mentioned a particular type of oil here, I am going to go see if I can find it, I think it was chevron. I would like to go with 15w-40 to try it out, just have togo hunt for it and see if it is availiblethe motorcycle mix.

Diesel Oil, I can use that in my bike? I thought we had to stick with motorcycle oils because of the clutch issue.

When I pulled the valve covers off, the engine parts looked real clean so I don't think she is gunked up. But I am seafoaming because of the raves on here about it. Right now I got Lucus oil in my fuel, when I burn that off, I will put seafoam in the fuel.
 

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Wall-mart sells rotella in the blue jug. It's good oil! Oil you must avoid have a round symbol on the container, White in color that sais "Energy conserving" or "Friction modifiers" Those additives might cause clutch discs to slip. I think the oil you were trying to think of is "Delo 400???" it is good oil!

Diesel engine oil is what I used due to its high detergent level as well as the improved viscosity properties it has. A goldwing is built with very tight tollerances & the gears that mesh together actually tear the oil apart! when your rollin' down the highway in 5th gear, you can hear your tranny howling from this. It is a sign of high quality workmanship in my opinion.

Was there any talk of stator issues with your bike by the previous owner?
 

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ChasW wrote:
Did these bike do this when they were new as well?
Yes, they did. I had a brand new '77 GL1000 and a brand new '81 GL1100, and they both smoked from the left bank when left on the side stand. Valve guides/seals had nothing to do with it on those new bikes.

On both bikes, I used the recommended Honda oil viscosity for the first 1,500 miles or so, then went to synth. The dealer back then told me that Honda had changed the oil ring design at some point and that the '81 would not smoke hardly at all. This was partially true on my '81...smoking less than the '77, but still a lot. :waving:
 

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I was told if I used synthetic oil it would not smoke because synthetic oils don't smoke when they burn.

Mine is not smoking anywhere near what it was before I changed the oil. Before, I think the neighbors had there hands on the phone getting ready to call the fire department everytime I started my bike. It was blowing one heck of a cloud, now its just a little puff, much better. I think I may even try 20W-50 to see how that goes. That is readily availible at my local automotive store or maybe I will just switch to synthetic.
 

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I think that temps where you are would be too cold for 20 w 50 this time of year.
 

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I seemed to see less smoking with Chevron Delo 400 at 15w40 with my gl1500.

On my gl1200 I got in the habit of always putting it on the center stand. That nearly stopped the smoking issue. That was before I started using diesel oil instead of m/c oils.

Diesel oils will not hurt the clutch. Too many folks using it with good results. We would have heard before now if it did.
 

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Yup, my 83 smokes something fierce when it's on the sidestand longer than a day, from the left bank. Seems to be getting worse now that the temps are dropping.

But it all clears up in a couple minutes so I'm not worried.
 

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ChasW wrote:
I have a tool that compresses the springs without removing the head. You can get it a any local automotive parts store. Before removingthe springs, you have to put compressed air in the cylinder. Have to be carefull not to put to much in there, I used 80 PSI. It keeps the valves from falling into the cylinder. Some guys fill the cylinder with rope. I like the compressed air, much quicker as long as you have the adaptor to fit the spark plug hole.

The valves steams looked clean. I was thinking one of the valve seals came off the seal boss but a friend of mine thought that couldn't happen. The valves seamed to be tight in the guides but can't really tell with the valve seated against it's seat.
Who made the tool you used?
 

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let me get this straight....you guys are saying it's ok to use diesel engine oil in my '96 1500 SE and there will be no damage?????:?
 
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