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Had my SEi gone thru by local guy Jim venne(venco wings), he reported charging was good. However, when i ride the voltage starts to drop. have seen it drop below 11.0v. know this is not good for new battery (agm style). need to know how to go about troubleshooting issues. Also seems to drain faster if radio is on. good it be i have a drain from the radio? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bike does have the Stator connectors hard wired. was told Stator was replaced by previous owner. Will a new wire harness improve things? if so, which one do you reccomend??

Thanks,

Mark
 

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If the "charging is good" then you shouldn't have this problem. Connect a volt meter to each of the yellow wires and check the output from each one (engine running). It should be around 5 volts from each wire. A major difference in one (like say 2 volts reading) means the stator is bad. Also, test the reading at the battery. If it's not getting at least 13.5 volts (regardless of battery condition) then the stator is bad. If you are getting over 15 volts then the regulator is bad. If you are getting good readings, turn on the lights and radio and see if the voltage goes up to compensate for the load. If it doesn't then the reggy is bad.
 

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shadogang wrote:
Had my SEi gone thru by local guy Jim venne(venco wings), he reported charging was good. However, when i ride the voltage starts to drop. have seen it drop below 11.0v. know this is not good for new battery (agm style). need to know how to go about troubleshooting issues. Also seems to drain faster if radio is on. good it be i have a drain from the radio? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bike does have the Stator connectors hard wired. was told Stator was replaced by previous owner. Will a new wire harness improve things? if so, which one do you reccomend??
Mark, how many accessory lights or other power users are you running?

Those Se-I's have a pretty decent charging system to begin with so should keep your battery up if not too many extras are used.

It sounds like you are either running (powering up)too much, or have a charging system malfunction.

Disconnect the regulator and measure the voltage on each yellow wire (engine at 2500 rpm +), should be above 50 volts (probably need the AC scale on the meter as it is AC at that point.

If above 50 volts and pretty much the same on all 3 legs then suspect the regulator is malfunctioning, or you have high resistance in the charging system wiring from the regulator to the battery.

Check the fuse at the starter relay, those tend to develophigh resistance over time.



Twisty
 

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Once in a while my SEI would drop to 12.6V or so idling, most of the time it was over 13.5V on idle for any length of time. On the odd occasion while riding I would see it drop to 12 or so for no known reason while the radio was on., I didn't hit the brakes and the fan didn't come on. Most of the time it was around 14+V and the battery stayed up fine so I ignored it. I don't know what kind of load the radio put on it, never really got looking for it since it usually didn't do it for more than a few minutes at a time, and if I turned off the radio the voltage would come up again.

One thing I was wondering but never checked was if the built in voltmeter occasionally had a burp and lied. You might temporarily wire in a portable volt meter if it happens often and see.
 

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Hey Twisty,

When I measure the yellow wires, am I going from one to the other measuring AC? Should I do this between the 2 wires from the little connector? Where does the third wire come in to play?

I do not have any extra accesories, just the standard AM/FM radio and CB. no extra driving lights. Just to double check the regulator is located just to the right of the left hand faring pocket right?

Thanks
 

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The stator has three coils, one end of each coil is grounded and the other end (the yellow wire) comes out. Measure the voltage of each of the three yellow wires to ground while the engine is running. You don't need to disconnect them, it would be better if you didn't to prevent highvoltage in the coils which could damage them. It will be AC in the range of 40-50. The exact voltage is not critical but each coil should have about the same output.

It's not likely you have a stator problem, the LTD and SEI have a more powerful stator to handle the extra load of the electronic fuel injection and don't fail as a rule. The radio does have a significant drain especially when using all four speakers at highway speeds where the amp is turned up by the auto volume control.

As I mentioned earlier I would temporarily wire in another voltmeter across the battery, use your test meter and tape it to the tank so you can compare readings with the built in meter to make sure the low readings are real. If the low voltage reading only occurs once in a while as my SEI did and the battery stays charged, I wouldn't worry about it. When you get a low voltage reading like that you also might turn off the radio and see if it comes up in a minute or two. On my bike it would and it would also come back up if I pulled over and restarted the bike. In the case of my bike as I said it never stayed down for more than a couple minutes at each occurrence so it wasn't a real problem since it didn't affect the battery.
 

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exavid wrote:
As I mentioned earlier I would temporarily wire in another voltmeter across the battery, use your test meter and tape it to the tank so you can compare readings with the built in meter to make sure the low readings are real. If the low voltage reading only occurs once in a while as my SEI did and the battery stays charged, I wouldn't worry about it. When you get a low voltage reading like that you also might turn off the radio and see if it comes up in a minute or two. On my bike it would and it would also come back up if I pulled over and restarted the bike. In the case of my bike as I said it never stayed down for more than a couple minutes at each occurrence so it wasn't a real problem since it didn't affect the battery.
exavid made a good suggestion! I thought I was having problems with the charging on my 83 Aspencade. My charge looked great on the factory gauge at highway speeds but seemed to fall off and not charge at all when the engine was hot and in stop-and-go traffic. I took his advice and wired my DMM up to the battery and rode around monitoring the voltage for four days. With my DMM hooked directly to the battery I came to the conclusion that the factory gauge became very sluggish when hot and was slow to show a charge when actually my DMM showed a charge as soon as I started moving and my RPM came up past 1300 or so.

I don't worry about it any more!
 

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shadogang wrote:
Hey Twisty,

When I measure the yellow wires, am I going from one to the other measuring AC? Should I do this between the 2 wires from the little connector? Where does the third wire come in to play?

I do not have any extra accesories, just the standard AM/FM radio and CB. no extra driving lights. Just to double check the regulator is located just to the right of the left hand faring pocket right?

Mark, measurethe voltage between each yellow wire and the other two yellow wires. That stator is a type of Delta wired affair so is isolated from ground. If you have a good ohm meter measure each yellow wire to ground, you should have NO continuity to ground on any of the 3 yellow wires (regulator disconnected). If you show any continuity (connection) to ground you have a shorted stator.

The regulator must be disconnected to get the 50 volt reading as the regulator momentarily grounds the 3 yellow wires through a series of resistors to control voltage output so if it is not disconnected you could get some strange readings.

To measure, disconnect the regulator. Then run the engine at 3500 or more rpm's probably 3500-4500 would be better as the faster the engine turns the more voltage the charging system makes. I usually use 3 pieces of tape (one on each yellow wire) with the numbers 1, 2, & 3 on the 3 pieces of tape. Measure the AC voltage (or pulsed DC if your meter can capture that) betweenthe yellow wire #1- & wire #2 & wire #3-- Next measure the voltage between wire #2- & wire #1 & wire #3-- Next measure the voltage between wire #3- & wire #1 & #2. You would like to see 50+ volts but as long as the voltage is fairly well the same and in the 40-50+ volt range you should be good to go.

If you have a low leg that one is probably starting to go.

If the engine is hot soaking while you are setting up try revving it for few moments before testing as those stators seem to take a short time to recover from a hot soak before achieving max charge. Not sure if it's a heat thing or just needs to throw all the oil off the parts first.



Just to double check the regulator is located just to the right of the left hand faring pocket right?
Yes, It has short cooling fins on it, should also have the 3 yellow wires running to it with a couple of red/? wires leading out also.

Twisty
 

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exavid wrote:
Once in a while my SEI would drop to 12.6V or so idling, most of the time it was over 13.5V on idle for any length of time. On the odd occasion while riding I would see it drop to 12 or so for no known reason while the radio was on., I didn't hit the brakes and the fan didn't come on. Most of the time it was around 14+V and the battery stayed up fine so I ignored it. I don't know what kind of load the radio put on it, never really got looking for it since it usually didn't do it for more than a few minutes at a time, and if I turned off the radio the voltage would come up again.

One thing I was wondering but never checked was if the built in voltmeter occasionally had a burp and lied. You might temporarily wire in a portable volt meter if it happens often and see.
Hi exavid.
I'm sure that the built in voltmeter lies sometimes. On my 86' SEI the meter sometimes show 13+ when ignition is in radiomode. That should not be possible since a fully charged battery produces no more than 12,7... It also drops sometimes when driving, but I've just ignored it since I'm sure it's a lying meter.
Larsernz
 

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To test te actual output voltage from each yellow wire, you need to connect the meter from each yellow wire to ground, one wire at a time with the engine running. It's the combined voltage from the three wires added up that gives you your total. Its usually just over 15 volts (3 x 5 volts from each yellow wire) and the rectifier/regulator regulates the voltage to stop the battery roasting, ie keeping it under 15 volts and over 12 minimum. If the stator is faulty, you usually find that one or more of the yellow wires is only showing about 2 or 3 volts even at high revs.

Thetest you did from wire to wire you do with the engine off. Thats how you check for an open circuit. You usually dothis one after checking the total output as described above.
 

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:?OK here are the results of my checks:

When measuring AC voltage between each Yellow wire, with regulator disconnected,I get around 85 Vac at 3500RPM

When measuring AC between each Yellow wire and ground, regulator connected, I get ~ 2 Vac

and when measuring DC I get .2 Vdc (regulator connected)

Checked the fuseable link next to starter relay and that ohms out to 0.

Bike volt meter reads 11.5 volts

Meter directly on battery reads 12.3 volts

So, where do I go now???:baffled:
 

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What voltage did you get (with your meter set to DC andthe 0-20 volt or similar range) with the meter connected from each yellow wire to ground?
 

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shadogang wrote:
:?OK here are the results of my checks:

When measuring AC voltage between each Yellow wire, with regulator disconnected,I get around 85 Vac at 3500RPM

When measuring AC between each Yellow wire and ground, regulator connected, I get ~ 2 Vac

and when measuring DC I get .2 Vdc (regulator connected)

Checked the fuseable link next to starter relay and that ohms out to 0.

Bike volt meter reads 11.5 volts

Meter directly on battery reads 12.3 volts

So, where do I go now???:baffled:
Mark, as you found testing with the regulator hooked up shunts the yellow wires to ground atthe regulator resistors so the AC voltage goes to near nothing.
When measuring AC voltage between each Yellow wire, with regulator disconnected,I get around 85 Vac at 3500RPM -----*****
That means the stator is supplying plenty of voltage to the 3 wires.

When measuring AC between each Yellow wire and ground, regulator connected, I get ~ 2 Vac -----******
That is justregulated statorvoltage. There is NO part of that stator hooked to ground so checking the yellow wires between them and ground serves NO purpose. It isn't converted to DC until rectified in the regulator. The only place you can check between the charging system and ground and get a usable readingis AFTER the regulator

and when measuring DC I get .2 Vdc (regulator connected) ----- *****
See above

Checked the fuseable link next to starter relay and that ohms out to 0.
Good, BUT, check the starter relay where the red wires plug in as those are prone to burning with the plastic from the conector melting & running into the connection.

Bike volt meter reads 11.5 volts
Probably about correct with a 12.3 battery voltage

Meter directly on battery reads 12.3 volts
Not charging.

--OK, for some reason your charging current isn't reaching the battery. Check the voltage at BOTH red/? wires where they exit the regulator. Not sure on your SE-I but the regular 1200 has 2 red wires that go to the starter relay the supply current to the battery and accessories.

Just guessing here but my guess is you have an open in thered wires (they're red with a color stripe on them) between the regulator & starter relay, or you have an open in the starter relay that leaves an open between the red wires & battery cable, or you have a failed regulator or bad connection.

You would think that a totally failed regulator would leave the 3 yellow wires at high voltage as it wouldn't be able to short them to ground to lower the voltage. The same if you have a bad regulator ground (no grounding of the yellow wires therefor no lowering of the voltage.

That leaves the possibility of an open wire between the battery & regulator, or failed rectifier in the regulator, or internal regulator short, or ?

You could also try running a by-pass wire from either red wire exiting the regulator directly to the battery & see if it then charges, if so you have found your open wire. If it still won't charge you probably have a failed regulator.

To help you understand the system a little--- The stator in the rear of the engine produces 3-phase AC current BETWEEN the 3 yellow wires only (no path to ground YET). Form there it goes to the regulator & is rectified into pulsed DC current regulated by the regulator alternately grounding (through resistors) 1, 2 or 3 of the yellow circuits (it now has a ground path due to the rectification). From the regulator it travels to the starter relay, then passes through the big fuse then to the battery & accessories.

Pretty simple charging system when you get right down to it. SO, there is only a few places for failure. It looks like your stator is good so it's probably either an open wire, open fuse, or failed regulator. Just find the one it is.

I suppose there is one more option-- You could have a batterythat'sso bad that it pulls the charging system voltage real low like a shorted cell (you might try another known goodbattery.



Twisty
 

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Well It has been awhile since I started this thread, However I have been busy with wife who had to have major surgery. All is going fine with recovery.

Now, to the bike. After finally getting some time I started digging in to things. I tryed by-passing the wiring harness with wire direct from regulator to battery. Volt meter on bike started showing an increase in voltage :D. So I was debating on just running a by-pass wire permanently. Was not to keen on that , so I started looking deeper. Well from the schematics I found another connector C82. when I tried to unplug this I had trouble. So I tested on both sides of connector and found 15 volts on one side and 12 on the other. So that is where the problem lay. Had to cut connector out and hard wired around it. Now everything shows good voltage. Will have to put everything together and go for a ride to make sure.

The connector was so fried on the red wire side it would not come apart. ended up breaking little pieces off to get a look. will try and get picture to show.

Thanks all who offered assistance, this site deffinetly gives you some place to get great assistance.
 

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When you were chasing wires down did you notice if the three yellow wires from the stator went to a connector near the regulator. On my bike two of the wires went into one connector and the third yellow wire went into a different connector. This isn't the way the Honda manual showed. Wondered if yours was wired this way.
 

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Well done Mark. It's nice to know when a problem gets fixed and how it went. Give our regards to your wife for a speedy recovery. :waving:
 
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