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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. I am in need of some desperate help. I am helping a friend out. He has a 1986 Goldwing Interstate. The problem is it will start and run for about a minute then it will die and won't restart. Here are my findings thus far.

1. New regulator/rectifier - Charging system is reading 14.5V when it does run.
2. I did the jumnper mod between Red and Red/White on starter relay.
3. When it dies and won't restart, no fuses blow. No loss of electrical. All lights stay on.
4. If I connect 12V from battery to the yellow/red on starter relay, the relay will click and engine will crank but will not start. While holding 12V on yellow/red if I hold the starter button it will start and run...only while forcing the starter to stay on my engaging the relay.
5. If the bike sits for a few minutes, the bike will fire up normally.

I have checked connectors. I don't believe it is something with the charging system as it does charge at 14.5 volts. It seems as if something gets hot and then kills the bike...then when it cools will restart again.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Welcome to the forum

Test the Pulse Generators on the front behind the timing belts, when they go bad it has those symptoms and is a common in the posts. There are specs in the repair manual to test to.
 

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I would check the kill switch first also, simply because it is easy.
The symptoms you described are consistant with pulse generators going bad. They will work for a while until they get hot and then quit. Let it cool down a while and it will run again until it gets hot.
You can check the pulse generators with an ohmmeter. There will be a 4 pin connector under the top shelter near the front. The colors for the PGs are yellow - white/yellow for one and blue - white/blue for the other. They should measure about 1100-1300 ohms. If it runs and then quits, measure it again while it won't start and see if the reading is different on either of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks everyone for the responses thus far. No it does not have the stock dogbone fuse. I understand how a faulty pulse generator can cause a no fire condition...however i do not see how it can cause a no crank condition? As I mentioned...when the bike dies...it will not crank when I depress the starter button. I don't think it is the kill switch because when it dies, if the bike sits for a few minutes...without touching the kill switch it will crank and run but then will die again. I do appreciate the responses and will check the pulse generators and kill switch to be certain. I am just totally baffled as to why the starter relay will not "click" and the bike won't crank. I know the relay is good because when it won't crank, if I apply 12v to yellow/red...it will "click" and crank.
 

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It is sounding more like the kill switch or either the start button switch. I would take them loose from the handlebars and test them. You may have a loose connection or corroded contacts. You could try spraying with some electrical contact cleaner.
If the starter will work by applying voltage to the yel/red wire it seems the trouble would be somewhere around that start button.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay. I tested both the kill switch and the starter button. Both check good. If it was a bad or corroded contact on the starter button...I don't think that would cause the bike to die. Keep in mind. The bike will run and die and won't restart until it sits. Any other ideas? I am baffled :-(
 

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There was a post on a 1200 LTD that had a broken battery wire inside the insulation, test your cables for breaks internally. You could do a test jumper wire too.
 

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sorry i did not understand the not even cranking when it does not start. Question for the experts, would the pulse generators heat up in a minute? by the way i am not an expert.
 

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Just a shot in the dark, but you could check the inline diode for the clutch/neutral safety circuit. You'll see it in the wiring diagram, but I have no idea where it might be located on your bike. Maybe the harness around the under-seat battery area...
 

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Bellboy put you in the right direction. I think maybe you dropped the ball on your diag.
Both the kill switch AND the starter button derive their power from the same black wire. Verify you have power on that wire coming into the switch to see if the ignition switch is faulty, then double check the crimp joint where the wires seperate to their indivdual tasks.

The battey doesn't go dead, the lights stay on. The only thing that is affected is the starter and the ignition.
 
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