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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

Finally got my 87' Aspy running, but I had to prime the hell out of it with carb cleaner and throttle it up to get it running.

My question is: is there anything that can be done with the choke. It doesn't seem like the choke helps at all on cold start. Once i get the bike running and warmed up it will idle at 900rpm, and it runs and drives fine. It's just getting it started when it's cold.

I'm not sure what to do. I replaced, the lines, the fuel filter, I checked the fuel pump and it's putting out about 750ml/minute.

I completely rebuilt all four carbs, new jets, needle valves, seals, and set float levels to 7mm. I drained and flushed the tank and am running 92 octane gas.

Like I said, i can get it running and warmed up with priming it with carb cleaner, and once it warms up, it runs fine and idles. But I can't seem to get the damn choke to work properly.

And yes, I measured the travel for the choke valves, approx 5-6mm difference between closed and fully open...help???
 

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The Choke(mixture enrichment) valve is really just the opening of a passage directly from the Fuel bowl to the Vacuum side of the throttle plates in these carbs.

The valve based on how far you open the choke coarsely meters a mixture of fuel and air to enrich the system for Cold running.

When you overhauled your carbs did you ensure that passage was absolutely clean from the fuel bowl to the opening in the carb throat?

A blockage in that path is about all I could think of that would prevent the enrichment system from doing it's job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did my best to blast everything out with the carb cleaner. I'm beginning to wonder if things are still gummed up. She runs great whe she's warm. And as long as it's warm, you can startt and re-start it over and over.

When I first tried the choke I couldn't get the plungers to move. But now they seem to move freely. it just doesn't make much sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry about that. I couldn't find my old post and thought the other it had been deleted, i didn't realize i could search myself and find it...stupid new guys..
 

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I hate to give you the bad news, but will need to take the carbs off again and clean out the chock passages. Like was said, the chocks only dump gas into the opening. When you had the carbs, did you take the chocks apart and clean the out with a small wire? I just got a '86 running that had been sitting for 4 yrs. All that I did was a good cleaning and replaced only the bowl gaskets. What part of St Louis are you from?
 

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When I first tried the choke I couldn't get the plungers to move. But now they seem to move freely. it just doesn't make much sense.
That part right there seems to tell me the Choke path wasn't clean. Since it is just a plunger with a flat rubber at the end that covers a small flanged opening I am guessing it was still gummed up. I concur this means pulling it down again since you cannot get to the front right and back left Carb choke plungers.

One thing you could try but almost as much work is to drain and remove the bowls and then with a cleaner with the straw attached to it, possibly show that straw up the Choke pickup passage and with the "Choke On" spray some cleaner through. Only Problem with that approach is you won't know if you did a good job and it may resurface as a problem later.
 

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I'm just curious because I have never heard of using carb cleaner as a primer ? I don't get along too good with carbs to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Doc, you had a thread started on this a few days ago, but never responded back to it. Maybe one of the mods can merge the two.
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...orum/414746-gl1200-carb-fuel-flow-issues.html
In answer to your previous question, the kit was from Keyster part number# KH-1292. It lists Chamber gasket, needle valve, needle jet, air screw, air spring, main jet #102, slow jet #35, O rings...

When over-hauled I replaced everything but the needle valve because I didn't whan to take the chance of messing the seat up when I was drilling the plug out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm in the Bridgeton area of St. Louis, near the airport.

Question: Do you take the choke valves out to clean the passages? it's not listed in the manual, and I wanted to make sure before removing anything I couldn't fix or replace.
 

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I'm just curious because I have never heard of using carb cleaner as a primer ? I don't get along too good with carbs to start with.
A good quality carb clean spray with straw is an essential diagnostic aid and I keep a can in the bag.

Bike dies on the road: While cranking spray a little in air intake, if bike wants to fire, fuel problem confirmed.

Vacuum leaks?: Spray a little around suspect area, if idle increases or smooths out found source of leak.

Lean carbs?: Spray a little directly into its individual intake, idle increases or smooths out lean carb confirmed.

Rich carbs?: Spray a little directly into its individual intake, idle decreases
rich carb confirmed within reason.

Quick confirmation of pilot adjustments: Consistent idle (RPM) response when a little spray is introduced to each individual carb intake.

High speed miss?: Spray a little into intake stream, if smooths out and picks up lean condition confirmed.

Avoid overuse around composite parts. (1500 slides for sure) Starting fluid is too volatile and messes things up.
 

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When over-hauled I replaced everything but the needle valve because I didn't whan to take the chance of messing the seat up when I was drilling the plug out.
This part is just drilling a small hole in the soft plug over the needle jet screw. Then prying that out with a small screw threaded (think sheet rock screw)into the hole.
The idle passage is very small and really should be cleaned. That doesn't influence choke or lack there of.
I dont have a pic of the screw and cover but those are around.

Choke mechanism should be removed.

There is a passage from the Fuel Bowl to the plunger and then a passage from the plunger to the Carb bore behind the throttle plate.

That second picture highlights all the passages that need to be cleaned. I may have reversed the main and idle jet and one is currently removed.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nice pictures! Does the choke plunger just screw out after you remove the linkage?
Also use a small wire? any idea what size? should I be concerned about scuffing the choke passage way?

BTW, getting to be an expert at carb removal and installs..I think I could do it in my sleep now..:)
 

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Nice pictures! Does the choke plunger just screw out after you remove the linkage?
Yes it all comes out, but might be a little sticky due to age.

Also use a small wire? any idea what size? should I be concerned about scuffing the choke passage way?
I didn't use a wire or anything other than soak and air pressure.

BTW, getting to be an expert at carb removal and installs..I think I could do it in my sleep now..:)
Good deal the more you work on her the better you and her feel about each other for sure.

Don't forget the little screens that are under each Fuel inlet Needle seat.
They were plastic on mine but really dirty/plugged.
That one is sitting on a Pill Bottle cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The kit came with brand new baskets for each, but I suspect they might be clogged again. I'll take it all down again and make sure I clean the choke passage ways out good.

I was in a hurry and probably introduced more gunk when I didn't change the fuel filter out before putting it all back together again...live and learn.

This is actually my first big bike. I rode a 250 2 stroke dirt bike, a cb350, and a 750, but never anything this big before. It was kinda intimidating when I was riding it around the other day. Definitely need to master the concept of leaning turns. With the dirt bike you just planted your inside foot when you needed to...
 

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Doc, there are so many things here throwing flags for me, it's hard to know where to start. I think the easiest way would be to just go in and undo what you have already done. Especially that carb kit. Just as an example of how bad the aftermarket kits are, the jets they supplied you are the wrong size. In fact, the combination of 35 & 102 is not correct for any GL1200!
Your originals will be 40 & 105. 49 state & CA models are the same in '87.
Dig out the old parts throw away the new. Go to Western Honda's web site and order some OEM kits and then rebuild the carbs correctly. Really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the info. I got the re-build kits with the bike when I purchased it. The jets don't look too expensive on the Western Honda site. I assume that the number somehow relates to the diameter of the opening/flow...

The original jets I removed, were green with corrosion in the carbs on the left hand side of the motorcycle, so cleaning them probably isn't an option. I'd rather get new and do it right anyway. Why would a kit that is made for the 1200gl have the wrong jets??
 

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You might try cleaning them up It is amazing how well they clean up.

At least before you buy new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Going to break her down one more time. Should take me until the weekend to get everything cleaned up again and put back together. I'm going to try and clean the original jets and see how that works. I will let you guys know how it goes. Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Great news! After cleaning the hell out of the old jets and doing a serious clean job on the choke plungers and choke runs. I put it all back together and it cranked right up. It's purring with the choke on, but burning rich when I let it off. I need to adjust the idle and sync the carbs now and I should be on the road. Thanks for all your helpful suggestions!
 
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