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Hello all. Looking for some help here...



I have a 1987 Goldwing Aspencade 1200. I bought it and was told the clutch needed to be bled. I bled the clutch until the new DOT fluid came out clean and I was positive it was free of air. I put the rubber gasket, plastic top, and master cylinder cover on and pulled the clutch. Seemed just as loose as before.



Then, I noticed some fluid leaking from the screws on each side of the cover. I have attached an image and put an arrow by the leaks. I called a service center and they told me that once it has been bled, it should work even with this cover off. Is that right?? I thought these systems where sealed and therefore the cover and gasket need to be put on so it creates negative pressure??



I took off the metal cover and noticed on each side of it (by the screw holes) there are machined channels and I can only assume that is where the fluid is leaking. Is the leak the reason the clutch isn't engaging?



Any help is appreciated.


Thanks,

E
 

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The clutch will work with the cover off. Getting the clear, new fluid out from the slave cylinder does not indicate that you have gotten all the air out of the system.

The hard part about bleeding the clutch or the brakes is bleeding the master cylinder and getting all the air of of it. Some folks like to loosen the banjo bolt and bleed it that way. I always completely remove the line, place my finger over the hole, and slowly work the lever until I feel good pressure and then re attache the line and bleed the slave cylinder. Be sure to use plenty of rags to keep the brake fluid off the paint.
 

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erock1813 wrote:
Thanks. Sorry for the lack of knowledge but what is the Banjo bolt?
The bolt that holds the hose on the housing.
 

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The gasket under the lid is also a diaphragm, when your fluid expands or contracts from heat changes the channels in the lid allow air in or out and the diaphragm prevents that dirty/wet air from contaminating the brake fluid.

To get all the air out I bleed the clutch on the centre stand with the bars turned all the way to the right.

Also check the brass pusher bushing in the lever. If it's worn through you'll not get enough travel of the piston to disengage the clutch.
 

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I agree with Ken. I also got a vacuum bleeder at Harbor Freight for something like $20 and use it for the clutch and brakes. I change my fluids at least every couple years, including the rear end lube. Alway make sure you have enough fluid in the master cylinders when doing this or you'll have to start over. Do NOT get any brake fluid on plastic or paint. It will eat it alive.
 

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Hey Erock1813,



I had the same problem when I did the clutch for a friend of mine. We left it for a few days with the clutch handle taped to the grip hoping that any air left in the lower end would have migrated to the top. A big "No Go" on that idea... that was not the problem at all.



Where the problem originates is at the Master cylinder. And yes... it's at the banjo joint. When you stop and look at things, that banjo joint is at the very top of the hydraulic system. Of course that where the air will gather. Air does not float "down hill".



We fixed it a little different then cracking the banjo joint... we removed the clutch grip itself, working the handle in mid air with the reservoir at the highest point. This allows the bubble of air to work its way up through to the reservoir as you action the handle. You can feel the handle firm up in your hand after only a few pulls. I thought about cracking the banjo joint but thought a little bit of air might still be left behind. Just a little bit of air can make a huge difference as you well know now.



Hope this helps... and WELCOME to the best Goldwing site around!! You will learn lots here!



Tim.
 

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Tim ... you are a freeking genius bro. :bow::bow:I fought this mo'fo after rebuilding the Master Cylinder, bars turned to the right & all, taking it off the handle bar did it.

:claps::claps::claps:
 
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