What are you working on? Fuses, Kill switch, ignition switch?
1988 GL1500 Died
Hi guys
I have a little dilemma, I was out for a weekend ride last friday (going to vietnam veterans rally) 250 ks from home and the bike died
just accellerating up to 100 kph and the engin stoped, the tacho droped to 0 and the oil light came on
pulled over to the side of the road
no cough no stutter just died
try to start and the starter just spun over no attemt to fire
so i rang my bride and asked her to bring the trailer so i could cart the bike home
so now i've stripped the plastics off her and been playing and discovered we have no power to the fuel pump and no spark an the plugs
I have a little dilemma, I was out for a weekend ride last friday (going to vietnam veterans rally) 250 ks from home and the bike died
just accellerating up to 100 kph and the engin stoped, the tacho droped to 0 and the oil light came on
pulled over to the side of the road
no cough no stutter just died
try to start and the starter just spun over no attemt to fire
so i rang my bride and asked her to bring the trailer so i could cart the bike home
so now i've stripped the plastics off her and been playing and discovered we have no power to the fuel pump and no spark an the plugs
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died
ok so going by the the workshop manual it gave you a test for the fuel pump folowing there instructions it says to bridge the black/white and black/blue and it should work
it didnt
so i connected the termanal (with a jumper cable) straight to the batery and the pump run
i also put a little fuel straight down the carby throat (as you would on your car ) and no attemt to fire
allright then how sensative are the kill switches theres no sign of corrosion on any connections
is there any way to test the ecu (engine control unit)
is there a way to bypass the bank angle sensor
Thanks (Gary)
ok so going by the the workshop manual it gave you a test for the fuel pump folowing there instructions it says to bridge the black/white and black/blue and it should work
it didnt
so i connected the termanal (with a jumper cable) straight to the batery and the pump run
i also put a little fuel straight down the carby throat (as you would on your car ) and no attemt to fire
allright then how sensative are the kill switches theres no sign of corrosion on any connections
is there any way to test the ecu (engine control unit)
is there a way to bypass the bank angle sensor
Thanks (Gary)
Has it occured to you to let us know which Goldwing model you have the problem with Gary? :? It does help you know. Edit your thread title or add a post here to clue us in please.
+1 on which Goldwing model.
Gary there is a huge difference in a GL1000 or a new GL1800.
We have absolutely no clue what you are talking about.
That makes it impossible for us to provide you with any educated guesses as to how to fix your problem.
1st things first. Post your bike's year and model info in this thread.
2nd, go into the User CP (Control Panel) and create a signature which will show us what your bike is every time you post.
This is a tremendous help towards getting "you" the help you need and desire.
This is just good forum etiquette, I will assume here that you are new to forums?
Enjoy your Goldwing forum here and welcome to our group. But, if you will ALWAYS include the bike's model number in the TITLE of the post, makes life easier.
Gary there is a huge difference in a GL1000 or a new GL1800.
We have absolutely no clue what you are talking about.
That makes it impossible for us to provide you with any educated guesses as to how to fix your problem.
1st things first. Post your bike's year and model info in this thread.
2nd, go into the User CP (Control Panel) and create a signature which will show us what your bike is every time you post.
This is a tremendous help towards getting "you" the help you need and desire.
This is just good forum etiquette, I will assume here that you are new to forums?
Enjoy your Goldwing forum here and welcome to our group. But, if you will ALWAYS include the bike's model number in the TITLE of the post, makes life easier.
Hi,
If it's a GL 1500 the bank angle sensor might be dried out causing this problem. It was recall many years ago. You can find details by Googking ""bank angle sensor"".
regards from Holland
If it's a GL 1500 the bank angle sensor might be dried out causing this problem. It was recall many years ago. You can find details by Googking ""bank angle sensor"".
regards from Holland
died
sorry guys
just a little peeved off
she's a 88 1500 japan import as im led to beleve honda didnt import till 92
Sorry Again
Gary
sorry guys
just a little peeved off
she's a 88 1500 japan import as im led to beleve honda didnt import till 92
Sorry Again
Gary
The 88 and 89 model is different, jumpering at the ECU will not make the fuel pump run. There is a fuel relay under the trunk. First check for power at the blk/wht wire at the ECU, if no power it could be the kill switch then fuses #2,8 & 11, or relays #3 & 8.
This sounds alot like when the ECU failed on my PC800. On that bike there is no real test for the ECU. What you do is test every other component and if everything passes then replace ECU.
The Honda Manual should walk you through testing all switches, pumps and ingition components.
Good luck and please share your results.
The Honda Manual should walk you through testing all switches, pumps and ingition components.
Good luck and please share your results.
+1 on this to begin your troubleshooting. The bank angle sensor is also suspect. There was a recall here in the US on 88-93 models to replace this component. I wouldn't assume other countries did the same. It's located under the right front side of the trunk...you can get to it simply by removing the seat.The 88 and 89 model is different, jumpering at the ECU will not make the fuel pump run. There is a fuel relay under the trunk. First check for power at the blk/wht wire at the ECU, if no power it could be the kill switch then fuses #2,8 & 11, or relays #3 & 8.
You can tell if the BAS is updated by removing it and inspecting the back for a POM mark. If it has it, it's the updated one. I don't have a diagram handy but if memory serves me I believe for testing you can bypass it by unplugging it and shorting the red/white and green wires in the three pin coupler on the harness side. Maybe somebody else on the forum can help you verify that.
If the BAS is bad it won't crank and he stated the starter was working.
Died
Checked all fuses and the only one not working is labled parking light on the cover, I will check the relays but it will have to wait untill wednesday. Pulled the kill switch apart power on both sides. Honda service department they said the bank angle sensor would reset after ingnition key is turned off also sensor wont allow engine to crank over. So the more I eliminate the more I think it is ecm failure. Will pull trunk off on wednesday arvo to find the fuel pump relay. thanks for the suggestions I will work through all.
On another note been waiting eleven weeks now for progressive suppension to turn up had to buy second hand original 1500 set so I could ride it then it blew up or died or what ever it is doing now
Thanks again (Gary)
Checked all fuses and the only one not working is labled parking light on the cover, I will check the relays but it will have to wait untill wednesday. Pulled the kill switch apart power on both sides. Honda service department they said the bank angle sensor would reset after ingnition key is turned off also sensor wont allow engine to crank over. So the more I eliminate the more I think it is ecm failure. Will pull trunk off on wednesday arvo to find the fuel pump relay. thanks for the suggestions I will work through all.
On another note been waiting eleven weeks now for progressive suppension to turn up had to buy second hand original 1500 set so I could ride it then it blew up or died or what ever it is doing now
Thanks again (Gary)
There is probably nothing wrong with the fuel pump relay. If the ignition is not firing the relay will not energize the pump. I believe it is much more likely to be the pulse generator than the ECM.
I don't look for an ECM problem until all other possibilies are checked and double checked. Even then I doubt an ECM is the problem. Still don't know if you have power at the ECM on black/white. Check the solid green ground also. You can also check the PG at this location and nearly everything else.
Dave0430 is right...it's a waste of time going to the pump relay if you don't have spark. Work on the no spark issue first.
Dave0430 is right...it's a waste of time going to the pump relay if you don't have spark. Work on the no spark issue first.
...Pulled the kill switch apart power on both sides...QUOTE]
Verify that the Screws, to the kill switch, are tight... I know you checked both sides, however I've seen the screws appear to be fully-installed, yet actually loose and not making a connection.
Also, try by passing the other kill switch that's attached to the kickstand.
I think you're all wrong. This sounds like a petcock failure. The valve cannot hold a vacuum, thus not opening & not allowing the fuel to flow. Check it first & I'll bet cha it's the problem....-Rich
But he says that there's No Spark... That is not explained by a petcock problem, although can't hurt to check that too (in case the no-spark-condition is in error)I think you're all wrong. This sounds like a petcock failure. The valve cannot hold a vacuum, thus not opening & not allowing the fuel to flow. Check it first & I'll bet cha it's the problem....-Rich
When the BAS is bad, your bike will quit suddenly if you hit a big bump, but will generally start right back up again if you turn the key off then back on.
As I recall, the fuel pump does not have power until the engine is running. It is easy to test the pump with a jumper wire straight from the battery to the positive terminal on the pump. However, your bike should run for a minute or two with just the gas in the float bowls even if the pump is not working.
I would focus your efforts 1st on why you have no spark. Solve that and I bet your bike will run.
As I recall, the fuel pump does not have power until the engine is running. It is easy to test the pump with a jumper wire straight from the battery to the positive terminal on the pump. However, your bike should run for a minute or two with just the gas in the float bowls even if the pump is not working.
I would focus your efforts 1st on why you have no spark. Solve that and I bet your bike will run.
On my 88 the fuel pump runs for about 4 seconds at ignition on and shuts off unless the engine is cranking. Sounds like a break in power to the ecm or a bad ecm to me.
mike
mike
Now that is exactly how it should be on ALL of the 1500s.On my 88 the fuel pump runs for about 4 seconds at ignition on and shuts off unless the engine is cranking. Sounds like a break in power to the ecm or a bad ecm to me.
mike
Turn the key on, let the carb bowls top up with fuel,
hit the starter and varoom!
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