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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1988 Goldwing with reverse problems. When going into reverse the R lite is on. When I mash the button the starter engages then quits, the R lite goes out and I have to recycle to get it to come back on. Was working fine but had a champion trike kit put on it now no reverse. Have checked all fuses, put on new A and B solenoids, Reverse switch located by the 65 amp fuse according to book still nothing can anyone help. also can't seem to get a honda dealer with a wiring picture for this bike and it does not match the books for a 90 to 2000,
thank you jd.
 

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Hi JD and welcome to the forum. In time I think you will see there is a lot of knowledge available and some pretty good guys willing to help. Exavid is the reverse expert but maybe I can help a bit until / if he chimes in. There is a fair amount of sophistication of events that goes on when you push the reverse button. One second of reverse is activated by the reverse relay switch. My guess is that all that is fine because you say all is well for a short time. I'm assuming the bike attempts to back up ever so slightly, correct? Then the light goes off and you have to start all over?

To simplify the theory let's just say that if all is well and safe the "starter relay regulator" engage the starter after the initial second, as long as you are holding the button. Let's just say for the time being (and we will come back) that all is safe. The reverse relay has timed out (more than one second) now the starter relay regulator is responsible for keeping the starter running. Both the reverse relay switch and the starter relay regulator keep the starter (maybe I should call it reverser) turning by grounding the starter relay A's ( I read you changed that) relay coil. Because it starts to back up we can assume all is good with the reverse relay switch. (remember that only gives us a second of go) It seems the problem occurs when it turns over the task to the starter relay regulator. My guess is that either there is an issue with the starter relay regulator itself a poor ground or the wiring associated with it. One of my first concern is that it quit right after the trike build. Electronics don't like welding. Was there any and if so did they keep the ground of the welder close to the weld point and make sure it had a good clean ground each time? Stray voltage flying around delicate electronics is bad.

Let's again assume all the things we talked of above are OK. Reverse on these bikes is pretty protected for driver safety. They don't want too much sped when they back up and don't want you to roll down a hill in reverse. I doubt either of these situations are issue as you say it shuts down so fast. (only a second) Over speed or too little rolling resistance (going down a hill) has to be sensed for several seconds before it will turn off. I think you have trouble too fast. (no sensing time?) Make sense? The starter relay regulator is located behind the left rear saddle bag. If it had one. It has a very finned heat sink and rectangular in shape. The reverse control unit is located under the trunk. (again if it had one) You should see two rectangular "boxes' side by side. Each about the same size. The left one as you look toward the front of the bike is the reverse control unit. I would really look over all wiring, plugs, and other related things in that area for anything that might look suspicious. Again, all this is located in an area where lots of work was done to trike the bike. It just makes me wonder if something was not replaced or connected properly or else (hopefully not ) hurt by the welding. If you can't find any issues post back and some one will help you along some more. Good luck and keep us posted.


Reverse control unit: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...+1500+reverse+control+unit&_sacat=0&_from=R40 (Holds for as long as button is held)

Starter relay regulator: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...1500+reverse+control+unit&_osacat=0&_from=R40 (Holds in for one second)




Edit: Here is a similar thread and if you page down you will see several others. Might help.
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/361352-1988-gl-1500-reverse.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Red and Saw thank you for you post, have read the other post and looked through them. No welding just bolt on stuff. Found the two wires going to the resistor that use to be under swing arm backwards changed these around but still no reverse, am ordering the regulator that goes on right rear of bike looking from the back, will see if this helps. will post back when this comes in and let yall no again thank you so much for your replys,
JD Fincher
 

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I'm hesitant to Say this because you must be very careful to assure the bike has all the configuration correct before doing this. BE SURE THE BIKE IS IN REVERSE (HANDLE PULLED) ENGINE RUNNING, TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL. NOW UNPLUG THE STARTER RELAY REGULATOR ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE BIKE. FIND THE BROWN WIRE WITH THE RED STRIPE. SHORT THAT WIRE TO GROUND. CAREFULLY PUSH THE START BUTTON. The bike should back up like normal but again, be careful as there are no safety devices built in. By doing this you are doing the job of the starter relay regulator. I am betting it will work perfect but that by itself does not guarantee that the starter relay regulator is bad. If you CAREFULLY try this and get back to us we can go from there. My service manual is from 1989 so I think it's probably accurate but I can't be sure. I owned an 88 and used the manual with no problems but those darn wings are so reliable you don't need the service manual often. :)
 

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The 88 is unique in the wiring with the starter motor wiring between the two relays. I cannot find or get to my photo gallery anymore to upload a diagram.

JD
 

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Hey there JD...

Good that things are starting and then kinda "stopping" with the "R" light going out -- generally this is a feedback issue, but it does all depend on the amount of hacking done to the bike during trike conversion. Generally, this run-to-stop cycle would be just under 3 seconds (shutting down reverse because he speed control isn't responding within limits).

Here's a kinda odd test for ya -- can you possibly get someone to lend a hand (or even yourself) and push the trike backwards as you engage reverse to see if the lockout does NOT occur? There are a few trikes that seem overly sensitive about minimum speed that will cause the speed input to call below expected right off... haveing a little extra help in there can help to eliminate this possibility.

I see you've flipped'round the two resistor wires (hopefully they're corrected now) ... In that same area (behind the battery box kinda) there's a red connector - ensure that the connector is good and tight.

You mention all fuses are good and tight -- does this include the quantity=2 5-Amp fuses in the wiring harness (one just forward of the battery and the other (in kinda of a 2-pack) just behind the battery?...

Is there any chance that your conversion dropped a ground? (there are two frame ground points above the oil fill dipstick - one can be reached with the inner fairing in place, the other one is up above that a bit, the battery's engine ground is in this area as well...)

I suspect the 5A fuse(s) myself, or that the factory test reverse going down hill :)

(check your PMs JD)
 

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There are two fuses to do with reverse, one on the left side in the fuse panel, and one on the right side near the back end of the battery. Guaranteed the one on the right is blown. It is kind of hard to find due to the rubber covering over it. Find that, replace it and you will have reverse.

The same happened to me when I got my '88

Good luck!
 

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I will second what Satan and Mel said. I think if the wires were reversed on the diode it was a dead short and probably blew the fuse. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just got back on line today and have checked all the fuses they are good, put on new regulator, checked handle switch and cables, all good there too, still same problem, all grounds are good, can unplug the single wire coming off the B solenoid and it will run longer than it did, have replaced the following things on bike just because it is a little older and I thought I should. regulator on left rear of bike, relay at end of 65 amp fuse, relay behind air pump on fender, A & B solenoids, Replaced both fuses at back of battery by B solenoid, 5 amp fuse in fuse box, and checked the diodes, rechecked all plugs in wireing. Don't no where to go from here an idea's would help. Thank You JD
 

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Which wire did you take off solenoid "B?" Was it a large wire or small wire. Reverse has several "speeds." That solenoid gives you the fastest speed. IF you eliminate that solenoid and the problem improves are you saying it runs indefinitely or just a few seconds longer? There is a 5 amp fuse located uner the seat on the right hand side of the bike that is kind of hidden. It lets the speed signal go to the module. I think it will kick out with out this signal. The module would have no way of knowing how fast the bike is backing if the signal is interupted by that blown fuse, I still think that the diode being hooked up wrong blew one of the fuses. Find this one. Might have to take off the seat It should bbe on the right side right near the rear of the seat but on the right side of the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The resistor turned out to be the bad part in my reverse problem. It is working great now. Thanks to all of you and your input it was my pleasure to talk with you and hear from you. This is one good place to come and am so glad I found it.
Thank You
JD
 

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The resistor turned out to be the bad part in my reverse problem. It is working great now. Thanks to all of you and your input it was my pleasure to talk with you and hear from you. This is one good place to come and am so glad I found it.
Thank You
JD
This is the first mention of a resistor from you or anyone else in this post. How about shedding more light on the resistor you speak of being the problem? That will be of much help to others that read this later. Remember, there are those who need help understanding how to find it so be specific in details.
 

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I'm pretty sure what JD is talking about is the dropping resistors that control the speed of the bike in reverse. It is located on the right side of the bike. It is easy to identify by the 3 large wires that go in and one that comes out. It also is integral with a large finned heat sink as they will get hot fast with that much power going through it.
 
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