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Hi folks,

Was wondering if rebuilding front forks it something I could do, or if it is better left for the shop? (I am somewhat Mechanically inclined)

Thanks,

Karl
 

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:waving:Welcome and Hello Kar_l . I havent done a set on my 1500 yet . I did the 1100 last sept and it wasnt bad . I had the seals, dust seals , both bushing sets and new snaprings all in hand before I started . makes a nice saturday job at your own pace . Again welcome . please visit often and come back with questions as you need .
 

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Welcome from the state of Pennsylvania!







 

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Fork overhaul is probably the easiest maintenance you will do to your 1500. The hardest part is getting the springs back in (if you're under 250 pounds, and alone). I wouldn't pay someone to mess it up.

The "on-bike" method has been outlined a few times on here, a search should turn up a few hits. It's pretty much all common sense, a split 6-8 inch section of 1 1/2" PVC, and a few hose clamps . . . . . .

Keep a drain pan handy, too. :)
 

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I've overhauled several different models of Goldwing forks. It's not a particularly difficult job. There's no reason to remove the top caps and springs, if you do that for whatever reason then the job takes a lot more effort or a home made jig to help remove and replace the fork caps under the spring pressure. You can replace the seals and bushings with the fork tubes on the bike or off. If you go to Rudy's website you can see my 1500 in the process. I was removing the springs which isn't necessary for seals and bushings. Basically you put the bike on the center stand, jack up under the front of the engine to get the front wheel off the ground (or use a bike jack), remove the calipers and fender and wheel and then remove the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork tube. Then it's only a matter of removing the circlip under the rubber dust cover at the top of the slider and yanking it off the fork tube. There's a lot of information on this site.
 

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exavid wrote:
I've overhauled several different models of Goldwing forks. It's not a particularly difficult job. There's no reason to remove the top caps and springs, if you do that for whatever reason then the job takes a lot more effort or a home made jig to help remove and replace the fork caps under the spring pressure. You can replace the seals and bushings with the fork tubes on the bike or off. If you go to Rudy's website you can see my 1500 in the process. I was removing the springs which isn't necessary for seals and bushings. Basically you put the bike on the center stand, jack up under the front of the engine to get the front wheel off the ground (or use a bike jack), remove the calipers and fender and wheel and then remove the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork tube. Then it's only a matter of removing the circlip under the rubber dust cover at the top of the slider and yanking it off the fork tube.
paul,

i read and understand what you said. 1] question, where did you add oil [fork] or atf fluid when you put back together if forks are still on bike?

the problem we had is if you use 10.8 oz. and 10.9 oz. like the book calls for it wont hold that much if pouring in from top. unless i just got tired of waiting for it to run down:cheeky1:

mark:waving:
 

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The oil can be added at the top of the slider but it does take awhile for it to trickle past the top bushing. You might try heating the oil and slider a bit to thin the oil. I haven't done it that way because I fill mine by removing the shrader valves at the top, just unscrew the whole valve from the fork cap and squirt in the oil with a condiment bottle. I got the condiment bottle at Walley World for a couple bucks. It's got a screw on top with a small nozzle that you can attach a piece of vinyl tubing onto.

If you don't have air valves in your fork caps it would be a good time to install some or order caps from Motogrid or HDL that have valves.
 

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Thanks, looks like I'll give it a try. Seems like this is a friendly a and helpful site!

Karl
 
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