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1990 SE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Drive it on Friday, sat for the weekend would not start Monday morning. Came home from work Monday and she fired right up, let it get to temperature and shut it off. Tuesday morning same thing, will not start, Tuesday after work won't start. Turns over nicely, real fast as it should. PO said it did it to him once and he sprayed ether into the intake and it ran fine ever since (I don't know when this was). I don't know where the air intake is on the 1500. Doesn't seem to fire but I don't know for sure how to uncover the plugs to be able to check that.

Any advice on what might be the issue? And what to troubleshoot?
 

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Premium Member
1990 SE
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
On pre-1998 GL1500's, the kill switch does not have to be in the run position and the engine will still spin in what appears to be a starting cycle.

From 1998 on, the engine will not turn over if the kill switch is in any position except run.

What I am getting at is try rotating the kill switch to off and on several times and see if the engine will start. When you do get it started, hit the right handle bar grip sharply and see if the engine dies. If it does, there is an issue with the kill switch and it may need to be dis-assembled, cleaned and reassembled.

Also, there have been instances where the terminal screws for the kill switch have come loose in the switch quadrant making the kill switch intermittent.
Nothing same thing this morning spins over like mad won't start. It's almost like there is no spark, where do I check for power to make sure it has fire?
 
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Premium Member
1990 SE
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok folks thanks for the help so far. What I learned today. Kill switch is prestine inside everything was tight and looked perfect. Voltage is 12.7 during crank (battery is brand new and on a tender currently). I dug until I could get a spark plug out and there is no spark while cranking. Where do I find the coils/pulse generators in the bike and where to buy them?
 
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Premium Member
1990 SE
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There are two PG's but three coils, the PG's on a 1500 do not directly initiate spark like on the four cylinder 'Wings, but instead act as crank position sensors like a fuel injected engine. The ECU then triggers the three coils based on crank position.

If either PG fails, the ECU cannot determine crank position and will not fire any of the ignition coils. No start.

I doubt you have 12.7 volts on the battery while cranking, that would be closer to battery static voltage. More likely low 11-ish or high 10-is volts while cranking the starter. The common problem with the 1500's is if cranking voltage falls below mid 10-ish volts, the ECU doesn't work and it won't fire the sparkplugs.

Often they will start if you just hit the starter button in short bursts. If the voltage is too low while cranking, when you release the starter button the voltage rebounds somewhat, now enough for the ECU to work, it starts firing plugs while the engine is still spinning from momentum.

But if you just hold the start button down in long bursts, battery voltage gets gradually lower and the ECU will not fire the plugs.

With a good fresh charge in the battery, try this and report back. If no luck, need to measure the PG's resistance and check voltage at the ECU while cranking the starter. We can provide more details if needed.
Still down and out...

Sorry 11.7 then tapers down as you describe, yesterday I was messing with the bank angle sensor, I have 12 volts on it with the key on disconnected it and tried to jumper it and apparently touched the wrong two together and blew the main fuse.

Should I have continuity through the BAS while on the center stand?
 

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1990 SE
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I should also say, I have a Hayes Manual on order should have it tomorrow or on the 5th
 
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