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With the side stand switch connected the side stand light comes on and off as the stand is moved from up to down. So I felt it was good, then someone asked if I physically jumped the green & Green whit wires so I removed the side switch and then the side cover and did jump them....
Larry, Our concern is not if the light works, If you look at the switch you should notice it is a single pole double throw switch. We are concerned with the part that tells the ECU the stand is up. Not the grn to yel/blk that turns the light on. Read the post right above here. #6 AT THE ECM must see ground or it will shut the engine off when you put it in gear What if the grn/wh is broken. The jumper will serve no purpose. It is just a beginning point to test only the switch. Now you need to test the wire. :)
 

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Larry, Do you have continuity to ground on the Green/White wire at the clutch micro switch (with the side stand UP)...???

If so, your side stand switch is good.

Next (with the side stand UP), check continuity to ground on the Green/White wire at the following locations:

1. 22-pin Red connector under the seat, right rear corner.

2. ECM connector.

Easy things first.........!!

Let us know your results.
 

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As some of you know I'm an auto mechanic and I started years ago in motorcycle repair, so I am smarter than some but definitely don't know it all. :)
Larry, ..... At the lever switch check to be sure there is no power on the Wh/Blu. Not in reverse, kill and ignition on.
I have 1.7 v using power probe on this wire. Put into reverse I get bat. votage

At the sidestand switch we need a good ground on the green wire at all times period. The green/white should have some voltage if you check it with a meter. Maybe not a test light. I am thinking it might fail one the tests just listed. If it fails on the green wire that wire is broke or poorly connected between the plug and ground. If the voltage test on the green white fails the wire has an issue between the plug and terminal #6 of the ECM.
Unplug the side stand switch, bike side plug, Green 2.7 v using power probe, Green / white .7 v plugged in side stand down same as unplugged, side stand up 2.7 v moves to green whit wire. throughout the bike

Larry, Do you have continuity to ground on the Green/White wire at the clutch micro switch (with the side stand UP)...???

If so, your side stand switch is good.

Next (with the side stand UP), check continuity to ground on the Green/White wire at the following locations:

1. 22-pin Red connector under the seat, right rear corner.

2. ECM connector.

Easy things first.........!!

Let us know your results.
With everything electrically connected (as factory wired)
Side stand Up
Reverse lever set for forward drive
I have 2.7v using power probe at
green/whit wire everywhere, (side stand plug, clutch micro switch, ecm, and 22 pin red connector.

If I send it a ground (from power probe) I can put bike into gear and make rear tire spin on center stand, but radio still mutes.

I have cleaned all bat. to ground connections that I can find too!

Update....
Now one more interesting thing Green wire at bike side of side stand switch has a great ground signal with key off, turn key on and it switches to 2.7v
 

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Cuts Out in Gear

blue

As some of you know I'm an auto mechanic and I started years ago in motorcycle repair, so I am smarter than some but definitely don't know it all. :)
I have 1.7 v using power probe on this wire. Put into reverse I get bat. votage

With the reverse lever UP, you should have battery voltage on the white/blue wire. (Looks like you are good there)



Unplug the side stand switch, bike side plug, Green 2.7 v using power probe, Green / white .7 v plugged in side stand down same as unplugged, side stand up 2.7 v moves to green whit wire. throughout the bike



With everything electrically connected (as factory wired)
Side stand Up
Reverse lever set for forward drive
I have 2.7v using power probe at
green/whit wire everywhere, (side stand plug, clutch micro switch, ecm, and 22 pin red connector.

I asked you to check continuity to ground (not voltage)....! Did you check continuity to ground with an ohm meter....??

If I send it a ground (from power probe) I can put bike into gear and make rear tire spin on center stand, but radio still mutes.

I have cleaned all bat. to ground connections that I can find too!

Update....
Now one more interesting thing Green wire at bike side of side stand switch has a great ground signal with key off, turn key on and it switches to 2.7v
 

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It seems to me you have a poor ground connection. That ground wire from the side stand switch goes through a couple of connectors before it finds a ground to the frame. I think the most likely candidate is the C192 connector. It has a bunch of wires going into it from various circuits and they all have a common ground point. That connector is taped to the wiring harness on the left side by the fuel tank. It has been known to get resistance in the connector and cause poor grounds. I would try to find that connector and test it there.
Here is a link to a thread about that connector that another member found was causing problems for him.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/384168-gl1500-common-ground-gremlin.html
 

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As some of you know I'm an auto mechanic and I started years ago in motorcycle repair, so I am smarter than some but definitely don't know it all. :)
I have 1.7 v using power probe on this wire. Put into reverse I get bat. votage



Unplug the side stand switch, bike side plug, Green 2.7 v using power probe, Green / white .7 v plugged in side stand down same as unplugged, side stand up 2.7 v moves to green whit wire. throughout the bike



With everything electrically connected (as factory wired)
Side stand Up
Reverse lever set for forward drive
I have 2.7v using power probe at
green/whit wire everywhere, (side stand plug, clutch micro switch, ecm, and 22 pin red connector.

If I send it a ground (from power probe) I can put bike into gear and make rear tire spin on center stand, but radio still mutes.

I have cleaned all bat. to ground connections that I can find too!

Update....
Now one more interesting thing Green wire at bike side of side stand switch has a great ground signal with key off, turn key on and it switches to 2.7v
That is a bad ground period. A good ground will never have voltage by definition. It is probably a bad ground that can sustain the minute power of the Volt meter but when real power is applied it fails. Ground that green to the frame somewhere and try it. Or better yet just ground the green/white and try the bike out.
 

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I have checked the grounds at the frame from the bat and the fused ground and the orange group of grounds on right side, Ill look for the left side one tomorrow and will start going threw all the connectors, hopefully I locate the problem wire soon.

Just in case there was / is any confusion a power probe is a verry nice tool that can almost replace your multi-meter. for more information go to http://www.powerprobe.com/webstore/index.php?route=product/category&path=69_152 and read about them

When I found no ground on the green wire I switch from a meter to the power probe because it will tell you more in a single test then the meter can. example the meter told me i had .01 resistance to ground on the green wire (Key off) but I had infinity (no continuity) to ground with the wire (Key on) power probe told me key off great ground, key on 2.7 volts of + power.
 

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FYI :) Mr. DBohrer the whit / blue wire never changes from idle to 5 grans on tack, it stays at about 1.7 v unless I move the lever to reverse then it goes to bat voltage.
Also Yes I did check continuity to ground with an ohm meter.... before I switched to my power probe.

That is a bad ground period................................... Ground that green to the frame somewhere and try it. Or better yet just ground the green/white and try the bike out.
yep as posted five back I have tried it, and I can shift into first on center stand didn't try second or more, but as soon as I shift it out of neutral I'm still loosing the audio. I didn't try putting it into reverse again with a ground jumped but I still have not found or fixed the problem.

thanks though
 

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FYI :) Mr. DBohrer the whit / blue wire never changes from idle to 5 grans on tack,

Its not supposed to change with various RPM ranges........!

I move the lever to reverse then it goes to bat voltage.

That is what it is supposed to do..........!
ooops I mis read your prior reply on this wire. Sorry I was hot and tired. :)

Off to look for the bad ground cluster on left side. Ill report back when I know more.

Thanks again everyone for helping this far
 

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It seems that I found the problem.... :) I have tested the forward and the reverse along with the radio and all seem to be working now, but I have to put all the plastic back on. :(

I find this hard to believe but the problem was the PO installed a toggle switch, powered it from the accessory port at fuse block, this power wire has been chafing and got to the point that with key on it was sending 2.7 v into the frame of the bike. Removed the pinched wire and all seems to work now correctly.

The part that puzzles me the most is why did the fuse not blow, and why did everything seem to work fine with it in neutral???

Oh well after I do a few things with the plastic off, I'll get her back together and I'll edit this post saying its all good. (Hopefully) :smile2:

thanks again for all your help
 

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:(

I find this hard to believe but the problem was the PO installed a toggle switch, powered it from the accessory port at fuse block, this power wire has been chafing and got to the point that with key on it was sending 2.7 v into the frame of the bike. Removed the pinched wire and all seems to work now correctly.
All voltage ends at the frame, ultimately the battery ground terminal, I'm betting that doesn't fix it, maybe defers it a little while. Did you ever check that ground gang connector?
 

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Unplug the side stand switch, bike side plug, Green 2.7 v using power probe, Green / white .7 v plugged in side stand down same as unplugged, side stand up 2.7 v moves to green whit wire. throughout the bike
With everything electrically connected (as factory wired)
Side stand Up
Reverse lever set for forward drive
I have 2.7v using power probe at
green/whit wire everywhere, (side stand plug, clutch micro switch, ecm, and 22 pin red connector.

Now one more interesting thing Green wire at bike side of side stand switch has a great ground signal with key off, turn key on and it switches to 2.7v
Larry,
As Dave said and I agree, you did not find the issue. You very well might have moved something and made a contact for now. That is my best guess. I am confident you did not find the root cause. You could short 12 volts directly to the frame and the green will still read zero volts if all is well. . You should never have power on a ground wire. If you do there is a problem. You HAD an open in that green wire somewhere from the test point to the frame/negative battery.

Your logic of the 2.7 volts power to the frame won't work. If that was the case you would only have a short to ground. It is hard to say when/if the issue will return. I hope it never does but I would say it is more likely you will be back looking at the gang connector than not.
 

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All voltage ends at the frame, ultimately the battery ground terminal, I'm betting that doesn't fix it, maybe defers it a little while. Did you ever check that ground gang connector?
Yes I did open up both right and left ground clusters from inside the wire harnis, I took the caps off and pulled out the jumper pins for a good hard inspection that are great looking no melting no sign of hot spots at all, I plan to put some dielectric grease on the jumpers before I re-tape them into the harnises.

I agree with you and redwing52 that the problem may not be fixed. what I do know is the toggle switch is for fog lights and is installed on the left side where (i think a CB would go). This power lead was pinched hard between air box and frame, some how, (I can put up the pics i took if you want) I had key on, in first gear, engine not running (radio was in mute as described above that's one of the problems i had) as soon as I pulled the wire out from between the frame and the air box my radio came off mute, when I ran the test from green to ground and then green/whit to ground everywhere it had ground.

With my automotive knowledge and with 15 years d/c electrical repair experience, I had already planed to remove the air box and do more inspecting before I reassemble the bike, but as I said "it seems like its fixed"

Dave, redwing52, DBohrer, (and others I failed to name) have so much more knowledge about these machines then I do and I totally respect your advice, and with what you just told me I'll be looking very hard for a problem ground wire near and around where this power lead was pinched!

Thanks again
 

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Final Update

I did remove the air box (and what a pain in the but that job is :))and I spent a lot of time looking and testing and tracing and investigating but without a way to go back in time or into the future, I can only pray that the problem is solved by rewirering the toggle switch.

I 100% agree that the problem may not be solved and may return but for now the bike is back together and I'm ridding again.

From the first time the bike acted up until it left me on the side of the road was only about 10 miles. I have now road the bike about 100 miles after fixing the wire I found so I'll just keep my fingers crossed that it is yet a nether problem solved with the help of a bunch of great guys!

Thanks averyone:nerd:
 

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Do yourself a favor and check & clean the main ground G100.
 

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I did remove the air box (and what a pain in the but that job is :))and I spent a lot of time looking and testing and tracing and investigating but without a way to go back in time or into the future, I can only pray that the problem is solved by rewirering the toggle switch.

I 100% agree that the problem may not be solved and may return but for now the bike is back together and I'm ridding again.

From the first time the bike acted up until it left me on the side of the road was only about 10 miles. I have now road the bike about 100 miles after fixing the wire I found so I'll just keep my fingers crossed that it is yet a nether problem solved with the help of a bunch of great guys!

Thanks averyone:nerd:
Nothing worse than an intermittent problem. It can sometimes be permanently fixed just by moving a wire or contact slightly. I think if it were me I would do exactly as you have. Get in there and rut a round. Move some things hoping it fixes it permanently or wiggle it loose again so it can be found.
If you want some insurance you might do this. There is no doubt you had a poor ground when you measured 2.7 volts on the ground. There is no doubt that the engine would shut off in gear with out that ground. So, why not find a place where it would be possible to access easily and have a ground jumper wire at the ready. Remember you want to be close to the ECU to insure you are after the break of course. Now if the bike acts up install the jumper and finish your trip. Just be extra careful the sidestand is up. Besides, Murphy's Law pretty much guarantees that if you build the jumper you should never need it. How ever if you don't!!! :)
 
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