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been working on my 90 49 state wing for a while.



I completly rebuilt the carbs with a K and l full rebuild kit.



It didnt seem to have the right orings for the pilot jet metal cap deal. I used ones that seem to be close.





Now the bike seems to miss at low speeds, revs pretty decent. But in gear it is almost un driveable. the choke helps alittle.



Ive checked all the vacume times. replaced them. checked coils. new plugs. new air filter. Please help.
 

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I would try to use some seafoam in the gas tank for a couple tanks. See if that helps any.
 

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You add alittle choke and it runs better?? Did you sonic dip the carb body's??

Sounds to me like there is a carb or two that are having problems feeding fuel in the mid range area. You said it rev's up fine so that mean's you high speed sliders are working fine. It could be that the idle curcut and the pilot jet curcut are plugged up on a carb or two. When you add a little choke it by passes the two lower curcuts and feeds direct.



Run the bike for a bit until it warms up. Take a spray bottle with water in it and sray each exhaust header coming from each cyn. Leave the choke off!! Does one or more cyn just let the water run off OR does it steam off real fast?? Your looking for a cyn that is not as hot as the others. If the water runs off or does not steam as quick as the others that will be the carb that is not feeding fuel.

Now shut the bike off , after warming it up, and pull the spark plugs. Remember which plug came from which cyn.

Is there any wet plugs?

Is there any plugs that look real clean still??



Has the bike been sitting on it's side stand for a long period of time??



Still sounds like carbs to me.



Kurt
 

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redo it and chamfer the holes on the little block that the orings slide into....dont ask me how i know!!...but could be a buffet of things not right....also the boots dry out....revive/massage them with preservative like armor all and you also can remove the clamp dowels that prevent you from clamping too tight...theese works when new but not on a milage machine.
 

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FOund the problem. Thanks for the ideas. Bike is a trike so no side stand.

Im a mechainic at a shop and its been killing me why its been running so lean. Talked to one of the older guys and the floats and seats are completely different in the k and l kit.

the gas entrance whole on the seats is alot smaller than stock. I got new oem units and presto.

The other guy had run into this problem 10 years ago. made the same mistake. lol.
 

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OK, havnt found it out. It helped.

I even went to a 165 main jets, helped more.

It has some hesitation off idel still but not that bad.
If I pull 7 to 10 lbs vacum on the computer and block off that line, the bike runs great. Im getting good vacume off the intake though ( going to check what IM getting tomarrow).

Main problem is. when I pop it into gear, it runs like crud. In nutraul runs pretty good. Plugs still look lean.
 

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bigbob65 wrote:
NO sea foam. That stuff damages more than it helps. Thanks though.
Never heard anyone say that. What has been your negative experience with it?.,,
 

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Just a guess but have you synced the carbs? And are the pilot screws adjusted right? I have an 88 and I found if I take the radiator grill off I can access the screws from front of the bike with a long screwdriver. Just my 2cents.
 

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Book ? should call for setting the idel mix using a rich idle drop procedure. The initial setting is just that -- initial ...
 

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I understand that. but why does it run decent when in nutral, and complete **** while in gear. And thats just putting it in gear and holding in the clutch. Same while actually driving it .
 

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So clutch in and in-gear runs poorly while neutral seems happy?

That's an interesting bit to be sure. I'd be tempted to look at how the side-stand switch was bypassed to ensure that the Green wire has a good ground and that the green w/ white wire also has the same good ground (and that the yellow with black wire is complete isolated from every-damned-thing)... should be an easy check

I'm assuming that clutch lever pulled in and in neutral that things run OK ?

Could also be a failing Gear switch -- the ECU does work timing based on the gear that the bike is in, but it'd be a long shot (if the switch fails open, then the bike woudl assume 1st gear and should be fine - this failure would have to be shorting two or more gear positions together -- not damned likely).

I see your frustration, and kinda wonder if the issue lies in the spark voltage or a floated ground, and is masked by neutral needing so little power and the in-gear timing change... Lots of stuff would need to be "just on" to do that ... if simply shifting out of neutral and into any gear causes the engine to run rough.
 

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Bump...


... and a thought. Float levels? If they're set too low you'll end-up with all kinds of horrid behaviors as fuel demands move even in the slightest and the mix goes lean (I don't suppose you have a CO meter you can watch as this happens...?)

If thre were more of a load I'd wanna come back and look at the slider-diaphrams.
 

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I've used Seafoam for the last ten years in all of my vehicles including my 1988 Goldwing. NEVER had any problems at all. They all ran better.
 
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