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just bought a interstate, been sitting, replaced battery, it started right up for 20 seconds then died, nothing, figured out the starter brushes were broken inside starter ( yea broken,) bought new ones and starter on bench works fine.

Put back in bike, hit starter button, I hear a click in back by the fuze box,relay box,, but the starter solenoid does nothing, I jumped it with a screw driver, the starter spins up fine.

I pulled the connector from starter relay, put a jumper wire from hot terminal to connector but no voltage comes back when I hit the starter button,

Tomorrow I will test the BAS ( why people dont bypass this thing is beyond me )
and the Ign relay.

am I on the right track? My 1200 has alot easier starter circuit, Bypass the melted connector on starter solenoid and you are in business.


NEXT question.

PO or shop here in Tucson by passed the vacuum fuel shutoff, does the fuel pump run constantly? or shut off when pressure in the bowl is reached? C and R cycles worked on this bike ( I Have Po receipts ) but they claim they would never bypass the vacuum shut off.

thanks in advance,, I got the bike for 2K but might be more work than I want to put in ( I can do it all, but what is my time worth, certainly not riding it.)
 

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I dont know about the vacuum valve...but the starter issue could be the starter button itself. When mine acted up, the bike would not crank over. When I pushed the button it would click like you say. But I found that if I let out on the starter button a wee bit, the starter would engage. There is a "how to" article on the home page for cleaning this starter button. Its a cheap, easy fix. Good luck on your repairs!
 

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So the Bank angle sensor shuts down the ECU and the bike would still spin but not start?

my starter switch went bad bad on my 1200, I cannot figure out why Honda used a two contact switch when they could have grounded one side of the starter relay and used a 12 volt line/button.

I will check the starter button, hopefully it is something as easy as this,, I have not even taken the bike off the trailer.

thanks for the replies
 

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On the fuel pump - it runs all the time regardless... no pressure monitor or anything - it's a very simple and lossy centrifugal design.

As mentioned, the BAS, when failed, drops-out the ground for the coil of the IGN relay on your interstated removing opwer from the starter button. Along with not having 12V at the starter button you'd not have 12V at the field connection at the alternator (easiest place to confirm) , or to the ignition switch (which is how the power to the solenoids, coils, and ECU power gets cut-off).

For your Interstate to crank, the bike would need to be in neutral, and/or have the clutch-lever pulled in (and the side-stand up, if not in neutral). Both the Clutch and gear position bits use inline diodes to keep those functions isolated.

You posted that you "pulled the connector from starter relay, put a jumper wire from hot terminal to connector but no voltage comes back when I hit the starter button" ... sounds like you tried to apply 12V to the starter relay's coil, but I'm not seeing how you grounded the other side of the coil to have it pull-in the solenoid. I mentioned the inline diodes above, because they're easily damaged with overcurrent, and cost quitea few pennies to replace with OEM parts. Quite often new owners are thrown-off by the stand switch (that your 1200 didn't have)... so this missing "ground" to the starter solenoid could seem to be a mystery... and gets you to about what you're describing for the solenoid not pulling-in to power the starter.

Both of the solenoid's low-current wires should have red stripes (switched safety) with the 12V from the starter buton switching into the Yellow wire (w/stripe) and the sidestand/clutch & Gearposition switch provide a ground (through pricey diodes) on the darker wire (Brown? with a red stripe).



Running fo 20-seconds sounds like a fuel delivery issue (clogged low-speed jets can do this), or a very weak batery (and/or crappy connections).

Also, the bike will kill the ignition if the side stand is down and the bike is not in neutral (without regard for the clutch switch - the starter system considers the clutch switch, but running system does not)



Does your green "N"eutral light work OK ??
 

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1. bought new battery after initial start, ( use my Harbor Freight 50 AMp load to confirm battery was old and worn)
2. drained gas and put in new gas
3. hit starter button, nothing happened, brushes were broke from starter terminal, New brushes ( BIke Bandit ) last night

4. Nothing but a rear click when starter button pressed.
I had not realized about the side stand, but the bike is stuck on my trailer, front wheel locked in on my bike lock gizmo ( home made and jams front wheel into U channel, bike stands up by itself)

5. Neutral light is on, tried clutch pulled.

6. the Battery puts voltage to the starter solenoid, out two of the spade ( With 30 Amp fuze in, looking at the connector there are three connections filled, not 4 as on starter solenoid. so I jumped a wire from battery out the connector that connects to the 12 volts on starter solenoid ( Electrical Engineering degree) hope this makes sense.

a solenoid needs ground and voltage to operate, I used a test light to see if the voltage comes back. I need to look at several things it sounds like, later today.

thanks for the info. I sure didnt thin this bike was going to cause me so much grief ( esp the starter brushes separating from the terminal. I figured clean gas, some carb spray and off I go.
 

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Satan knows whats up with a wing...do what he says, and she will go!!! For the mean time...:popcorn:
 

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I have no Doubt that he is a genius when it comes to bikes. I always have questions though to expand my own genius.

So here it is,,, I use a test light and a DMM when I deem necessary,, found the BAS, because there is no tell tale sign of a X On my frame near the brake.

Unplugging the BAS, and using a test light to GND, even the green wire produced a light on my TL, when I placed it in the Red/White connector. the bike started. at least turned over, I ran outta daylight,,

Weird I know.. will continue to check things out.
 

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The BAC thing is a pendulum that actuallyhas a power source (Im' not exactly sure why, you're the E.E. :p (hall effect, sees like overkill though).

White wire to the BAC should be +12, green is a ground, and the striped wire (red with white stripe) is a switched ground (ground is "OK", open and the IGN relay coil won't be grounded, so no joy for all the stuff listed.) So your test, lamp provided some circuit to ground that'd'a been good enough to pul in the IGN relay...

Here's a twister for ya - the BAC ground (green wire) comes all the way from teh G100 ground (right side of the frame, inside the inner faring there above the oil-dipstick)... That's gonna be a really CRAPPY ground (long path, shared high-current/low current etc). I kinda ranted about that ground in your post on common grounds... but -- that may be your devil... that ground, when it floats high, causes no end of adventures (even drops the current available at the ignition coils) -- I'm wondering if your G100 isn't a bit oxidized... and the short engine-run that you had managed to increase the resisitance there ???

Really, off the top of my head, I can't think of one system on the interstate (and even on the SEs) that a bad G100 ground wouldn't cause havoc on.
 

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y'know-- this is a new bike to you and all that... I was looking for tutorials on the panels -- to offer some insight on how to pull the right inner fairing. I didn't find any right-off, but you will need to start by dropping the lower fairing, so here's a link to that...
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1500fairingpanels.htm

I have faith that you'll be able to pull right-side inner fairing with just a look around (not much more there to hold it on really, a few screws at the top into a brace and the main fairing, one peg near the rear, etc...)

While you're in the lower fairing - there's an air filter kinda tucked up near the cool air vent -- the "Sub Filter" -- this is a filter to filter air drawn into the solenoids and is also one of those "while your're in there" things (it'll take an hour to get there might as well service the 2-minute and $1-part, y'know ?) ( link for a little light reading on the sub-filter http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/107064.html )
 

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Thanks and yes it is a new bike to me, just got my 1200 under my head, ( had it 2 years now, PO did all kinds of things, but at least it was registered and running ) so I guess I needed a new project.

Stupid question but the Interstate does not have a air pump for shocks, so would that filter still be there? I will look anyhow when I figure out how to pull that right side cover.
 

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Yeah. The filter is for a few of the engine management (and emsissions management) solenoids, so you'll still have the 'sub-filter'.

Any filtr related to the airpump is actually on the airpump itself (which is nothing you'll have to worry about on your Interstate ;) )
 
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