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Just got my Aspencade out of the shop, had all fluids completely changed.

Issue number one: Front Forks

The Honda Mechanic (15 years experience with Honda) did the changefrom ATF to Straight 10 Weight fork oil. This stiffened up the front forks, but it now bobs up and down (from 0-30 Mph). The front fairing noticeably moves up and down about a full inch. Too much Oil?

Issue two: Idle fluctuates

I had him change the Timing belts (went with Gates, but the ones he pulled off looked new and were made in Germany). The Bike has 83,000 Miles on it. When he changed them he told me that he noticed on one side, the old belt was off by one tooth. Now my idle fluctuates (Also had him change out toNKG iridium plugs).

Issue three: Sometimes (only occasionally) when I pull in on thehand brake and apply the rear brake the motor shuts off instantly. This has happened a couple of times even before I brought it into the shop. If I am driving atnight I can see the Headlights shut off (actually dims completely and then brightens again) every time I apply the brakes. I believe it happens only when I apply both front and rears.



Issue four: When he changed the brakes, (Changed from GG to HH)I asked for the old pads and all of them were like new! except for one of the front pads, and it was worn thin and at an angle (tapered front to back) as if a piston was sticking. When I addressed this with the Shop manager (not the mechanic) he told me that the Service Tech would not remember which front disk it came from, but he assured me that they always lube the pistons and make sure they are moving freely. Also they charged me an additional$75 dollars to Change the brake fluids, instead of just bleeding them ( I asked that they change the brake fluids) they told me it was an additional hour of shop time.



I provided all of the parts (Belts, Plugs, Pads, and all of the Brake Fluid).

I do feel that $75.00 an hour is fair, but does it really take an hour to change the brake fluids?

Oh Well, the bike seemed torun better before i brought it in althoughtheshocks really needed to be firmed up, but the bobbingup and down is really noticeable. What is causing it to oscillate like that?

Your thoughts are appreciated.


FerrariMX5
 

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#1, probably a tire problem you didn't notice with weak forks.
#2, Changing the cam timing affects the vacuum so the carbs need to be readjusted to compensate.
#3, There is either a bad connection at the plug on start relay A next to the battery or a bad ground.
#4, Probably does or did have a sticking piston or caliper slide pin. I don't think an hour labor to flush the brake fluid is unreasonable.
 

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Thank you DAVEO I am going back to the shop on Monday to address the brake issue, I just want some assurance from the tech that the brakes are right. The Tires are New (DURO Brand), but the rim might possibly have an issue, also the tech did replace one of the valve stems, might have been on the front and if it was, then he might have also changed the air pressure. One quick question; I have noticed that if I pull just the front brake, the bike stops relatively fast, but if I press on the rear brake it travels downward about 5/8ths of an inch and then seems to only give me about 40% of the stopping power of the front one alone. Perhaps this is normal, but could it also be associated with the braking issue (caliper piston on the integrated front brake)?

Thank you again DaveO you really do seem to have great and direct answers to difficult situations. I wish you were my Local mechanic.
 

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That is about right on the brakes, the front does most of the stopping even with the linked brakes. I don't know anything about Duro tires but they do need to be checked for out of roundness.
 

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Dave, as an update. The front tire did have a slight flat spot, so I put 46lbs of pressure in it and the problem seems to be reducing daily. In a few days I will reduce the pressure, but the PO only drove the bike 800 miles and he owned it for over a year with the new tires.
 
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