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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 93 1500 SE that is blowing fuses. The same 2 fuses. they control the horn, radio, turn signals, brake lights, and cruise control from setting. Cruise will still turn on, just not engage. Any suggestions on where to start looking?
 

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I would jumper a light bulb into one of the two fuses, or both at the same time ( 2 separate bulbs ).

When the short is present, the bulbs will light up.
that will allow you to move the wiring harness around while you hunt for the problem.
when you find the short, the bulbs will go out... allow you to verify the source, you can move the wire/relays around until they stay unlit all the time.

Fix the problem, put the fuses back in
 

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The 1500 is famous for melting the wire connections behind the fuse panels,
 
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I would jumper a light bulb into one of the two fuses, or both at the same time ( 2 separate bulbs ).

When the short is present, the bulbs will light up.
that will allow you to move the wiring harness around while you hunt for the problem.
when you find the short, the bulbs will go out... allow you to verify the source, you can move the wire/relays around until they stay unlit all the time.
They will light short or not unless everything on the circuit is disconnected.
 
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I have a 93 1500 SE that is blowing fuses. The same 2 fuses. they control the horn, radio, turn signals, brake lights, and cruise control from setting. Cruise will still turn on, just not engage. Any suggestions on where to start looking?
Do they blow immediately or randomly when the brakes are applied, turn signals activated or horn used?
Any added on accessories are the first suspect.
 
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Does there seem to be a common situation where the fuses will blow? My 98 S.E. would blow the fuse controlling ignition every time I backed it out of the garage, killing engine. . Replace fuse and I could drive 100 miles with no problems. After much aggrevation I found out the kill switch wire coming down from the handle bar had a bare wire worn away by friction down low by the forks. Try moving handlebar side to side. all the way.. .
gumbyredd
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ive noticed usually as soon as i use the turn signals. I have not added any accessories to the bike since i bought it
 

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In t
Ive noticed usually as soon as i use the turn signals. I have not added any accessories to the bike since i bought it
In that case I would suspect a short in a bulb or a bulb socket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In t

In that case I would suspect a short in a bulb or a bulb socket.
I did notice also that the horn button and the turn signal switch feels"sluggish and Stickey" for lack of a better way to describe it. I think im going to take the botton assembly or control assembly apart and clean it good with contact cleaner and see if that helps.
 

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I did notice also that the horn button and the turn signal switch feels"sluggish and Stickey" for lack of a better way to describe it. I think im going to take the botton assembly or control assembly apart and clean it good with contact cleaner and see if that helps.
You have a short, not a bad connection. It won't be in the switches.
 

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Can the switches short out ?
I guess it's possible but highly unlikely. The wires from the switches can short against the handlebar where they are clamped into the switch housing by a metal piece.
 

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Which fuses blow? Number 1is the top and 2 next down etc.
It is common for the hazard switch to stick on if it has not been used in a long time. I wonder if you do not have an issue with the turn lights and the hazard light switch is stuck on. That would make the #10 fuse blow as well as #2. Try trouble shooting with just the #2 fuse and pull out the #10. I think when you fix the #2 issue and install the #10 fuse you will see the hazards are stuck on. Buy a 15 amp breaker and put it in #2 for troubleshooting. Easier and cheaper than changing the fuses all the time. Remove one turn signal at a time keeping in mind it could be a front or rear. I agree with Dave. The issue is going to be a short at the bulb or not far away.

My guess is it is blowing #2 fuse because of the issue. It is back feeding the #10 fuse and blowing it because the hazed is stuck in the on position. Fix the #2 issue then work to free up the sticky hazard switch, All issues will go away including the cruise.
 

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look up litefuse ATO fuse holders on line and replace the old ones on the bike with these. they even have a 50 amp one. that way if you have a problem
you can just have a few fuses with you. i did on mine and works great. just make sure you solder them in
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It is common for the hazard switch to stick on if it has not been used in a long time. I wonder if you do not have an issue with the turn lights and the hazard light switch is stuck on. That would make the #10 fuse blow as well as #2. Try trouble shooting with just the #2 fuse and pull out the #10. I think when you fix the #2 issue and install the #10 fuse you will see the hazards are stuck on. Buy a 15 amp breaker and put it in #2 for troubleshooting. Easier and cheaper than changing the fuses all the time. Remove one turn signal at a time keeping in mind it could be a front or rear. I agree with Dave. The issue is going to be a short at the bulb or not far away.

My guess is it is blowing #2 fuse because of the issue. It is back feeding the #10 fuse and blowing it because the hazed is stuck in the on position. Fix the #2 issue then work to free up the sticky hazard switch, All issues will go away including the cruise.
I took apart the switches and cleaned everything with contact cleaner. Ive also checked all the bulbs with an ohm meter. Right now everything is working. Hopefully it will stay that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK< Apparently i have not fixed this problem. Now, the #2 fuse blows as soon as the bike is started. The #10 fuse only blows when i try the blinkers. I jumped the fuses out to try to force the issue to show itself. Everything works fine except the left blinker and the hazards, or emergency flashers. I have taken off the seat and a good bit of the plastics trying to located the issue, but with no luck. Does anyone have a wiring diagraham in a PDF file they can send me so i have a diagraham? Any help would be appriciated. Thanks.
 

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Do you have a trailer hitch? I ask because you may have a trailer light isolator. All the rear light circuits are connected to the isolator, run, brake, turn. Perhaps either a connector for a trailer or the isolator is causing a problem. If you do not have a hitch, you could still have an isolator if you are not the original owner. No telling what has been installed and or removed over it's 28 year history.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Do you have a trailer hitch? I ask because you may have a trailer light isolator. All the rear light circuits are connected to the isolator, run, brake, turn. Perhaps either a connector for a trailer or the isolator is causing a problem. If you do not have a hitch, you could still have an isolator if you are not the original owner. No telling what has been installed and or removed over it's 28 year history.
No trailer hitch, and i believe im the 3rd or 4th owner, so it could have had stuff added and removed at some point in time.
 
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