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I have a few problems with the 1993 Honda Goldwing I just purchased. The unit has just slightly over 32,000 miles on it.



#1: Rear brake pedal is very weak/does nothing (from what I have traced it looks like the foot brake also activates the front left side brake also). I have bled the brake with no success in changing the feel of it.



#2: When crossing a bumpy intersection or rail road crossing the bike will sometimes die. Loose electrical connection some where? Any known areas to check?



#3: Both front and rear speakers when plugged in have abnormal static. It didn't have this when first ridden and it has now gotten worse. Any certain area or item to check?



Thank you in advance!
 

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Welcome to the most educational wing forum on the planet! I will give you some homework while you wait for more replies.
For your electrical, park your bike at your garage door & find a mirror to stand up facing the bike. With the tupperware off the bike on the left side & the key on, start wiggling your wiring harness while you watch your headlight in the mirror. when it flickers off & on, your getting close. It is most likely a loose ground wire which might explain the static in your stereo.
As for your brakes, they are linked front & rear for balanced braking. Do they ever stick on or are they just weak?
Try pumping the rear brake about 5 times & than tie the pedal down & leave it for a few hours. Later, come back to it & open the rear or front bleader screw. You might get air at that point.
You will receive many more replies!
Hatch.
 

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The rear brake used to "pump up" if you pumped it 5 or 6 times, but now it simply does nothing!



I will check on the wiring, thanks!
 

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On the brakes, the most likely culprit is air in the lines... I would do a complete brake fluid flush and bleed... Also look for signs of brake fluid leakage around the master cylinders and calipers...

On the radio, I too would vote for a bad ground or bad connection somewhere... You might look at the contacts where the large plug terminates at the front of the radio module... There should be a separate green wire coming from that harness that is grounded to chassis - make sure that is a good ground...

Regarding the bike suddenly killing over railroad tracks, bumps, etc., I would first look at the bank angle sensor and see if the recall was ever done to it... If my memory serves me correctly the BAS is located on the right rear of the bike under the seat...

My 93 Aspy was subject to this recall years ago... There was a defect in certain bank angle sensors on Wings of that vintage whereby the fluid inside the sensor either dried up or leaked out - can't remember which one, but it made the bank angle sensor trip prematurely...

Welcome to the forum - tons of information here and some really nice people who go out of their way to help you out :cheesygrin:

Les
 

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#1 I have a 95 1500SE and I too have what I thought was excessive rear brake pedal travel. I have replaced the fluid, Pads front and rear, rotor on the rear and bled again with little improvement. I have a friend with an 89 1500 and his works like mine; about 1.5 - 2 inches of travel before full engagement. I think this is normal for this model. I have read that switching to stainless braided hose reduces the flex in the lines and makes the brakes feel more solid but I have not tried it. If yours is really not doing anything visually verify that the brake pedal is activating the both front and back brakes. In my Clymers' manual it tells of an adjustment of the push-rod at the rear master cylinder and it gives the measurements that they should be adjusted to and that would be my next check.
#2 As for the engine dieing over bumps I would first check the battery connections and the connections at the master fuse at the battery. If nothing else blinks (radio, instrument cluster, etc.) then I would expect a problem with ignition system only and I do not have any suggestions other than routine troubleshooting of that system.
#3 As for the Speaker static the first thing I would check is that the CB and Intercom are both off. If that is not the problem I would check all the connections from the antenna to the radio and all the connections at the radio paying close attention to the grounds.
Happy hunting and Good luck!
 
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The brakes on the 1500 Wing are very hard to bleed, it can take a lot of attempts to get it right. As for the cutting out when going over bumps, that sounds like a bad bank angle sensor.
 

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I had an electrical problem on my bike. The previous owner replaced the battery and did not properly tighten the battery connections.
 

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I agree with others about the Bank Angle Sensor. You bike is giving the classic symptoms of a bad one. Honda has an open ended recall on it because it is a safety issue so that means they are still performing the recall. Click on this link and print out the recall bulletin and bring it to your local Honda dealer to get the work done.

As far as the front and rear speakers, the Aspencade only came with front speakers and in order to have rear speakers, normally an aftermarket kit had to be installed and they are famous for going bad. The Hondaline kit was usually pretty good but if you just a silver knob that fades from front to rear, I would suspect that it might have gone bad and needs to be replaced. You could disconnect that and see if the front speakers improve.


One other thing I have noticed about the rear brakes.... The front left is a breeze to bleed but the rear bleeder doesn't seem to be quite the right size. Whenever I opened it, I would always seem to have bubbles using a mityvac so it never seemed to be completely bled. I have seen where others have used a thin layer of plumbers tape on the threads and that seemed to help out sealing it. I haven't tried that yet because I was able to bleed them ok. I ended up using the old fashioned method of having someone press the brake pedal down while I opened the bleeder. That seemed to do the trick for me.
 

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The bank angle señsor is bang on it is under the seat right hand side if you sit on the bike at the back. You are having the same problem I had The issue is that there is a viscos liquid in the box with a ball bearing in side. The ball moves through the liquid slowly on normal operation but when bike goes down the ball mates contact with the sides and initiates the kill signal Take it off if it rattles then replace or iv you can hear the movement replace. It takes 5 min I would bite the bullet and buy brand new as second hand may well last a little while and be pre recall as well Good luck Andy
 

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You don't have to pay for the Bank Angle Sensor, you just schedule an appointment at your local Honda dealer and they will replace it free of charge under the safety recall if it hasn't been done. I posted the info above. Just click on the link.
 

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Bleed the front first, then the rear. Always start at the firthest bleeder from the master cy. (in this case, the front). Use a mity-vac. Works better and faster. Just make sure that you keep the master cyl full.
 

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I have 1993 goldwing asp heard loud pop when I engaged clutch I took off slave cylinder couldn't see lifter rod so took off clutch cover found a c - clip and end of lifter piece can't find the rest of lifter piece took off lifter plate .the shaft that that the lifter piece travels
Is hollow is that shaftt inside the same size all the way or does it get smaller I put the lifter plate back on and put the lifter
Piece back in but doesn't go very far before it bottoms out i have tried a magnet, easy out but can not get the old lifter piece out
Any ideas would be great thanks for your help and time
 

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The rear brake used to "pump up" if you pumped it 5 or 6 times, but now it simply does nothing!



I will check on the wiring, thanks!
Check the Large White Ground wire that feeds back to the alternator. This ground wire is connected to large fuse blade under the seat and is connected to the alternator post.. Check ALL the grounds. If the alternator ground itself is failing it could be the culprit.
A bad ground in this circuit WILL let the bike start and run but you will have no lights, no fuel or temperature gauge readings.
A bad emergency stop switch will make the engine stop. This is the switch located on the right handle bar.
Good luck I hope this is helpful.
 

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4011. You need to start a new thread. Really.
Posting this to an unrelated thread is just going to make things harder for you to get help with what seems like a serious issue.

Oh, and change your handle to something that isn't an obvious e-mail address. That's just going to get you a mess of spam.

Contact the moderators if you need help. They're not pretty, but they're pretty smart.
 

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You can also check and see if the sensor has already been replaced under the recall by looking for the X mark as shown below.

 

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One other thing I have noticed about the rear brakes.... The front left is a breeze to bleed but the rear bleeder doesn't seem to be quite the right size. Whenever I opened it, I would always seem to have bubbles using a mityvac so it never seemed to be completely bled. I have seen where others have used a thin layer of plumbers tape on the threads and that seemed to help out sealing it. I haven't tried that yet because I was able to bleed them ok. I ended up using the old fashioned method of having someone press the brake pedal down while I opened the bleeder. That seemed to do the trick for me.
Having the same exact problem. Tried tape and mityvac and tried grease around the fitting. Even installed a speed bleeder but still does it. When I first rebuilt my brakes they were great. Just cant seem to sort this out
 

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have you burped the master at the banjo fitting bolt? thats a common problem with hidden air
Use rag around fitting or brake fluid eats plastic and paint!
 
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