Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

My 1993 Goldwing 1500 Aspencade has only 20K miles on it, hasalways been garaged, is in perfect condition, always ran great, but has alwayshad a slight hesitation when taking off.



Six months ago I had prostate cancer surgery. Iwas unable to ride the bike for several months, then began toride itoccasionally for short periods. It has not been cranked or driven in the lasttwo months until yesterday. The battery was very low and had to be charged. Once the battery wascharged, the engine was difficult to start, but finally cranked. I immediately noticed a very slight engine miss when the engine was reved up a bit. I drove down the highway a couple of miles and then back home. Itseemed to run OK, but I could hear the miss and noticed more hesitation when taking off from a stop. When parked, if I speed the motor up and hold the throttle steady, theengine speedwill varyup and down several hundred RPM.



Any ideas what is likelythe problem? Spark plugs? Ignition? Gummed up carb?



Thanks for any information.



Dave

Central Florida, USA
 

·
Senior Guru
Joined
·
3,873 Posts
imported post

Hi dave glad to see your on the road to recovery i go for the gumed up carbs the fuel nowadays is only good for 3months before it starts to go stale as said many times before run a couple of cans of seafoam through it just give it time to do the job with only 20,000 miles thats an awfull lot of sitting in the garage and the one thing the wings dont like is sitting in a garage
 

·
Guru
Joined
·
3,074 Posts
imported post

Sounds like a sticking float. But it could be a few different things. I would hit it hard with sea foam & fresh fuel & go for a good burn. When you get back, pull the plugs & see if you have any fouling. It wouldnt hurt to un screw the plug boots & check the condition of the wire at the end. If you see corrosion, cut them back just enough to expose cleane core wire & re thread the boots on. There is a 5K resister in every boot. If they fail, you will also get a bad spark. I put 4 new ones on my 1100 & the bike ran way better.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,299 Posts
imported post

also try changing your gas filter. look closely for any signs of water or condensation.,,
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
imported post

After reading all of the positive reports about the use of Sea Foam, I bought a pint can and dumped it into a new and full tank of Premium gas. Wife and I rode to Daytona (Bike Week 2009) this morningand back home late this afternoon, probably about 140 miles round trip, and burned about 3/4 of the tank of treated gas.Ihaven't noticedanychange in the engine miss or hesitationwhile running the treated gas today.



The slight miss and hesitationon accellerationis still there. The hesitation is actually more of a stumbling when I roll on the throttle. When I start off, the engine begins to speed up for a split second, then stumbles a bit, then catches up and takes off. This has always been there, just worse now than ever before.



The miss that I hear and am trying to describe in this thread is new, has developed since the bike sat while I was recovering from surgery. The miss is mostprevalent in the 1000-1500 rpm range. The miss is not too bad, but it iseasily heard.



I plan to burn the rest of the Sea Foam treated gas out as soon as I can and hope thathelps. May treat and burn a second tank of gas just for good measure before I begin to look for other possible causes.



Dave
 

·
Guru
Joined
·
3,074 Posts
imported post

If you end up pulling stuff off for a closer look, Check to see if your accelerator pump in working. If it is, you would see a burst of raw fuel when you twist the throttle. This is what gives you power for acceleration.

It does act like a vacuum leak but your idle would be higher than normal if it was.
 

·
Senior Guru
Joined
·
3,873 Posts
imported post

Hi dave as hachetman said the accelarator pump has a very small jet in the top ofeach carb that is about the with of a small sewing needle and the only time fuel goes through it is when you twist the trottle so its going to take some time for the seafoam to dissolve any gunk in it if it can get trough it in the first place
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,437 Posts
imported post

I would still continue with the Sea Foam.

A hesitation is usually from a leanfuel condition.Actually, I would suspect a vacuum leak or fuel delivery carb problem.

But, if the Sea Foam does not help, I would then check and change thespark plugs.

When parked, if I speed the motor up and hold the throttle steady, theengine speedwill varyup and down several hundred RPM.
The slight miss and hesitationon accellerationis still there. The hesitation is actually more of a stumbling when I roll on the throttle. When I start off, the engine begins to speed up for a split second, then stumbles a bit, then catches up and takes off. This has always been there, just worse now than ever before.
May want to do avacuum check and/or sync the carbs.

For diagnostics,choke the carb a little to see if it affects themiss/hesitation.

An inoperative accerlator pump cancause a stumbleas the throttle is "rolled on", but not if the throttle isgradual opened slowly. And, itwill not have an effect on theengine up and down rpms.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
imported post

During our all day ride yesterday, the idle speed was actually a bit low at about 500 rpm. I adjusted it up to 750. Maybe the low idle speed is indicative of "not" having a vacuum leak. That is probably a good thing.

Because I actually have noticed two separate problems i.e. the engine miss and the hesitation, I may have to resolve two separate issues, but I kind of suspect they are both carb related.

I don't have any special diagnostic testing skills, equipment, vacuum gauges, etc. so anything I do will be limited to very basic try this, try that, etc., then check for improvement.

I intend to keep up with the Sea Foam treatment for another tank full of gas or two giving it plenty of time to work and clean anything it can, and see what happens. If fuel delivery is the problem, maybe the Sea Foam can disolve the deposits and clean the jets, accellerator pump, fuel passageways, etc.

I will post any progress, changes, etc. Thanks for everyone's help.

Dave
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
imported post

I ran the bike again today and did not see much improvement. Still have a 1/4 of a tank of the Sea Foam treated gas to burn yet.



I did do a basic exhaust temp test "by hand" and found the right side exhaust and muffler is considerably less hot to the touch than the left side exhaust and muffler. The left side exhaust gasses and the muffler itself is fairly hot to the touch. The right side exhaust and muffler is fairly warm, but isnot hot at all.



Seems my problem is in the right bank of cylinders. Could this exhaust temp variation mean that a single cylinder is firing but not firing properly? Would it be a carb problem isolated to the right side cylinders? When reving it up and riding, it sounds as if it is running on all six cylinders though.



Iprobably need start stripping down the fairing and looking at plugs.



Dave
 

·
Senior Guru
Joined
·
3,873 Posts
imported post

hi dave i think your best bet is to go with a carb sync first very unusal for one cylinder not to fire as there is three coils so if its out on one bank its out on the other on the opisit side the sync would be a good starting point
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
imported post

Is the carb sync job something I can do myself with no special test gear or will it have to be done by someone with gear and experience?



Dave
 

·
Guru
Joined
·
3,074 Posts
imported post

you need a basic understanding of what sincing your carbs does & you need a minimum of 1 vacuum guage. 1 per cylinder is best.

What you will be doing, is adjusting the individual carb butterflies so that each cylinder is drawing the same amount of vacuum. This will make all cylinders equal.

you can make your guages or buy them but you will need a tip on the end of the vacuum line that will thread into your carb manifolds.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
imported post

What exactly happens or how doescarbs get "out of sync"? Is there something in the linkage, throttle cable, etc.that breaks or wears out that causes one or more of the carbs to go out of sync? Or, is it just one of those things that happens over time with wear and tear on the engine and the condition and adjustment is very minor? Maybe the carbs were not sync'd perfectly from the factory.



My bike is a 1993 but it only has 20,000 miles on it, has always been garaged, well cared for, etc. so I can't imagine excessive wear causing a condition like this.



It does seem very unusual for one exhaust and mufflerto be much hotter than the other. Maybe it has been thatway since newand I didn't notice it.



I will likely try to find a reputable mechanic or other knowledgeable person with the gauges to check the carb sync. I sure hate to take it to a dealer though. Very expensive and many of the dealers here will not even work on a bike older than 10 years.



Dave
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,437 Posts
imported post

What exactly happens or how doescarbs get "out of sync"?
Here is my view on why carbs are sync'ed.

I usually equate this to a 2 or 4 barrel carburetor. Thesesingle carb units do not require to be synced. Idle screw mixture adjustments yes, but not synced. A 2 and 4 barrel carb has a solid shaftwith fixed throttle plates. There is no adjustment other than idle screw on the shaft which moves the plates simultaneous.

A GL1500 carb is actually two independent carbs that are controlled by a linkage -no solid shaft. Therefore, it the linkage is out of wack, the throttle plates are in slightly different positions and the air flow is not the same. Not balanced and not sync'ed. The sync adjustment screw with a vacuum gauge basically aligns the throttle plates and to balance the air flow.

This sync operation is only for idle. Checks to sync at higher rpms is not required. When sync is performed, the engine needs to be running good as far as ignition and fuel/air mixture.This could be done simultaneously and or repeated.

You can get a good cheap fuel pressure vacuum gauge at Harbor Freight for ~$10.

____

I would change your sparks plugs first.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top