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1995 SE. I noticed that above 70 mph the speedo needle will start to flutter back and forth. It does not do it at any speed below 70. I did regrease the speedo drive and cable about 5000 miles ago. Is it due for lube again already or is this a sign of something else to inspect? 78,657 miles on the bike.
 

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you pulled the front wheel and did an actual clean and re-grease of the drive unit, the plastic part was good?
and you slipped the cable from its sheath to apply a light oil ? (guess who has been reading the repair book)
The cable to drive unit screw is snug,, but not tight beyond belief? the outer stuff looks right, the drive unit nub to nub on fork- driver behind the fork nub-, axle bolt torque correct?


Make sure the cable is routed correctly, it can be done wrong- and will eventually cause enough inner vibration to break the plastic part (guess how I know!)
 

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Had speedo cable problem in '12....cruise acting up, even dropped out a few times. When speedo cable assembly pulled to check, entire
center third of inner cable was not only bone dry it was rusty! Did good outer housing cleaning, w/dunk tank dip AND spraying brake
cleaner internally from both ends. Took me quite awhile to remove all rust traces from inner cable [ was surprised it was still intact/ not
damaged ]. Opted to use Moly 60...coated inner cable twice, putting more along center third. After all together again, tested on the road,
cruise worked flawlessly once more, even slight surging I had noticed was gone. Sure was a Wake Up Call for me!

Only wished I applied that philosophy to my clutch slave cylinder seal. If I did, my Great '95 engine would not have developed rod rap,
@ 74,000 miles, from DOT 4 getting past bad seal into oil and destroying, I am sure, every bearing in there [ might tear engine down this
winter to check extent of bearing damage ]. Used engine w/under 52,000 miles is in place now, w/about 2 more weeks work before first
startup attempt [ health issue, chemo, took top priority, if I wanted to be still here to ride Wing again...only work on it whenever I can now ].
TTFN ........Old Tom aka papasmurf in New Hampshire
 

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ohhh,,, get the moly 60 off the cable and use a light - like engine oil or 3 in 1 sewing machine oil to allow easy rotation of the cable


My 94 came with a story about the speedo cable incorrectly installed when new- took 50kmiles and it broke the plastic in drive, replaced, then it broke the drive again,, suspicious ,,Pulled another 94 Wing next to it and matched hoses and wiring lines up,,,
Doh!! dumass tech/installers learning to assemble a bike puzzle that comes in a box = didn't route speedo cable correctly !
Warranty actually covered it all, and bike came with a spare new cable in new sheath


I would suggest that as a step to fixing your problem, that old rusted and revived sheath is trashed and ate another cable!! replace the cable/cover unit


your 95 cruise works off camshaft speed and gear selected, don't think speedo is directly involved anymore
 

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ohhh,,, get the moly 60 off the cable and use a light - like engine oil or 3 in 1 sewing machine oil to allow easy rotation of the cable,,,
your 95 cruise works off camshaft speed and gear selected, don't think speedo is directly involved anymore

ummm, I really think the 1500s work off the front wheel?

the 1800s though work off the rear wheel.
 

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TO ALOHA TOM: Read post again. You'll see I was referring to 2 different maintenance incidents; one on my speedo cable - [ easy fix, caused by lack of regular lube check on cable ].
The OTHER is problem caused by neglect of regular check on clutch slave cylinder condition [ seal, piston, etc. ] which MANY Wing owners have confessed to being lax about. I am
ONLY one of many GL1500 owners this has happened to. The tiny seal separating DOT 4 from engine oil is NOT meant to last 15 to 20 years. Even the piston was bad on BOTH engines
[ original '95 & replacement '96 ] badly pitted, though '96 was used as it was in a bit better shape, much easier to clean up than mine AND seal was ALSO SHOT in '96 power plant! If your
clutch slave cylinder seal has been kaput for a long time and DOT4 has ENTERED oil even once, it's only a matter of time before a bearing will finally fail. TTFN........papasmurf in NH
 

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I think the GL15 CC drive did change in the mid 90s.

Slave cylinder can leak into the motor. There's a seal there but it can wear or be damaged by an incompetent installer. AKA your certified Honda tech.

However, I doubt that the amount of brake fluid that gets through that seal would be very detrimental to the motor.
 

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DENNIS, I would agree with you BUT it happened to me and a lot of other folks, so DOT 4 IS detrimental to proper lubrication of
bearing surfaces IF it gets into GL1500 engine oil! TTFN.....papasmurf in NH
P.S. There was, basically NO seal left, because I waited WAY too long to check it's condition and it cost me, big time.
 

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I confess to not wearing my reading glasses and confusing stories and incidents, sorry- I am trying!
the 1500 definitely uses a system NOT running off the speedo drive,,speedo + the air compressor maybe?? as it wont let you adjust shocks unless stopped?
camshaft readings supposedly improved the reading and cruise control stability (possibly confusing facts once again)
then the hack/mod of swapping 2 wires to lie to ECU about what gear, 4th or 5th, the bike is in
That lets you set the cruise above 75 mph,,to whatever you want (no one is confessing to over 100)
I need to do that one~


I related my problem of incorrect routing the cable led to inner failure of the cable sheath so others with midlife failures can ck there
Lubrication with moly is not good for that particular cable. it wants a light oil per book
 

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Will be inspecting my clutch slave cyl for leakage of seals- just did a full flush on the system this weekend
Thanks for the heads up on that issue- had not read of it on here or other wing forum! so much to learn about my bike~
 

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I too like the Honda 60 Moly on the speedometor cable. 110,000 miles of flawless service by current cable and sheath, and counting can`t be too bad. Seemed like I was always replacing the speedometor cable and sheath at around 80,000 miles using the light oil method.
gumbyred
 

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Thanks for the replies. I will check all parts and pieces mentioned. The last time I lubed the cable I don't recall if I pulled it out of the outer sheath or not. That will be the starting point for this project. I will get back with what I find. Thanks again.
 

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Update-I checked all the suggested and ended up pulling out the whole outer sheath and cleaned it out with B12 chem clean and compressed air. I was amazed at the crap that came out of it. Looked like dirty gummed up oil. Relubed it with a Teflon base spray lube I had sitting around. The book says a light oil but thought I would give the spray a try. So far so good and no more flutter. Thanks for all the input.
 
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