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Ok first, I have a manual and have tested all ignition components & switchesand they test good. The bike is hard to start, I have to put a spark tester on a plug and keep cycling the starter button till I see fire. The bike will start but choke on only, carbs are clean. It will not idle or accept any throttle. When running you can hear pops through the intake and backfires out the exhaust (cam belts are new). With the spark tester in place you can see the fire come and go. I am leaning toward ecm but have never heard of one going bad, the bike sit in a barn for 7 years and has 67,000 miles on it I cleaned the carbs, fuel tank,petcock and replaced the plugs, air filter and timing beltsrode it 150 miles one day with no problems and the next day it wouldn't run.

Please help.

Paul
 

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Could be pulse generators or coils. There is a test for these in the manual.
 

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Welcome to the forum bro!
How were the carbs cleaned, dipped and soaked or sprayed w/cleaner? Were new carb kits(good ones)put in or just reused old stuff?
Did you put in a new battery? If not start there. These need full battery juice to run right, and the specified size and type. Is the alternator putting out full capacity, is it a stock alternator or a compufire? If a Compufire, you have to use a sealed gel or AGM battery or the wet battery will leak all over the bike and cause all kinds of problems which you don't want to go there!
Keep us posted on how its coming along and finish with what you find so others that do a search on this subject will benefit.
What year is your bike? They are a great machine, just cranky about being left to set, so get er done and ride the snot out of it!
 

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Great that you have a manual !!! :)

I would suggest a "cleaning and inspection" of the connectors for the pulse generators (sync puckups) -- I'm assuming that if the bets are new, that these generators and the trigger-wheel were cleaned, inspected, and/or reinstalled properly as the belts were being serviced. The conenctor I suspect most often is the forward-most kinda "odd ball" connector above the right fan, a tiny bit of corrosion can greatly reduce the input to the ECU for spark timing. Sometimes you can actually see variation in the Tach (jittery needle), but if you're not running stable yet, that's porlly nothing you'd notice...

Check and clean all the way back to the ECU.

Also, the 4-pin connectioon that drives the coil - 3 trigger wires for the coil with ONE common 12V source) is taped into the harness about midway up the right framerail. Should be a white 4-pin kinda where your right knee would hit if you rode without the right inner-faring. Tiny voltage losses here (as the primary side for the coils) can change the spark-side output by thousands of volts. I disconnect/inspect/clean this each time the right inner fairing is off - takes 10-minutes.

Spark testers on a lost-spark ignition system can be misleading depending on type. Inductive style are often more reliable. For inductive meters, always try "flipping" the clamp-on pick-up connection if you find unreliable spark indications since one side of the bike runs +'ve spark and the other runs -'ve spark. Using a "gap" style indicator can have the same issues as sparks jump more readily from sharp surfaces and these gap-spark dealies often have only one sharp point (so the -'ve sparks seem to jump at lower voltages, if at all)... so kinda could be a false-reading there depending on how and what you're looking for.

I would recommend inspecting the plugs and setting minimum gaps if at all possible -- to help daignose.


ah, and welcome here -- I'm sure many great thoughts will be posted as everyone tries to help you back onto the road.
 

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I am a mechanic, have been working on wings for 30 years. I dissasembled the carbs and soaked in berrimans chem dip. I did not use new kits but did replace mostorings. The battery is a new yuasa ytx24hl-bs, the alternator is stock but was putting out 14.4v at idle. I am kinda at a loss.
 

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dissasembled coil and pickup conectors and cleaned GOOD. No change. I am using a gap style spark tester.
 

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pwhite24 wrote:
anyone ever replace a ecm on there wing?
I know a couple of people had to do that. One was a 1989 GL1500 and the other a 1996/97. Both of them suspected PG coils, but they can't both go bad at the same time so it led back the the ECM in each case.
 

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I think that must be it does anyone have the oe part # for an ecm for a 96 gl1500se?
 

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If the timing belts were done, could it be pulse generators or off a couple teeth? jimsjinx
 

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the pulse generators check good even up at the ecm, I cleaned them both when I replaced the belts.
 

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in that previously mentione white connector -- you can watch (with a dwell meter or DVM) the voltage used to load and fire the coils (positive lead to the one dark color is the +12v source - each of the other 3 wires is a negative switched output to one of the 3 coils)

Is it safe to assume that the carb slides move freely and are mostly closde as you're trying to start? That dip can destroy the slide diaphragms...

I have a late model ECM here -- I'll try to get a pic so we can compare numbers.
 

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pwhite24 wrote:
I think that must be it does anyone have the oe part # for an ecm for a 96 gl1500se?

Here is the OEM part number......CONTROL UNIT, ENGINE
30410-MZ3-772

I would keep a look out on Ebay for a used one as a new one is almost $600.00.

I replaced mine with one from Ebay. I am checking with a company in Fla. that rebuilds car and truck ECM's to see if they can rebuild motorcycle ones. If they can I will send my old one out for a rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
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thanks guys, I will check voltage at the coils in the morning. The slides seem to be good clean and free I can hear the air rush when I slide them and they looked good when I had them out. Thanks for the part # for some reason I cant find it on the fische.
 

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I've never been able to make heads-or-tails outta the numbering on the unit (to match or not match the catalog part number)

Unit I have here is marked:
MZ3
583F
2413U

lemme know !
 

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With back fires and popping, it sounds like a timing problem.

What was the original problem that lead to this work being done?
 

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Do you have a osilliscope or a graphing multimeter?



If you do, I would check the pulse from the ignition trigger, or inductive pickup.



Also do some voltage drop tests in the ignition primary circuits.



I would think that the key to finding this problem is the cycling of the starter button,

and it sparks intermittently. Sounds like the voltage spike load from the starter is causing a connection to come and go.



Since the bike sat that long, I would be looking for a corroded connector somewhere.
 
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