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1997 GL 1500 SE Hesitation

1483 Views 10 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  jimsjinx
I recently rebuilt carburator due to back fire out the exhaust and the right slide diaphram not moving.

The kit I had purchased came from saber cycle.
I bought this kit because it was the most complete kit I could find, it came with new jets, o-rings, slide diaphrams and acelerator pump.
After the rebuild I now have a hesitation and a pop coming out of the top of the carburator on acceleration and I still have a backfire out of the exhaust on deacceration. I did set the floats at 8mm.

On the good sie, both slide diaphrams now move in sync with each other and the bike does start and idle great.

Has anyone else used this kit with success or do I have yet another problem.

Any help would be great.
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have you synced the carbs?
yes, I did sync the carbs.
have you done an idle drop? That is adjusting the pilot screws to the highest idle per side. The "initial" setting is just that.
Other than that, sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere.
Agree with Vacuum leak

I agree with Bones. Might as well do it and get it over with because if you haven't replaced this hose, you are going to eventually. Better to spend a day or two stripping the bike down and replacing it. IMHO this is the culprit 9 times out of 10 with a surging idle at stop lights, decreased take off, and increased fuel consumption. Yes you have to pull a lot of plastic off, yes you have to pull everything off down to the carburetors, but you do not have to pull the carbs out, you merely "pop" them off the rubber boots and push them out of the way. Then lift the ubiquitous "rubber mat" and replace the hose. Just push the new hose over the nipples, do not use clamps, wires, etc. It has a constant vacuum from the manifold and does not need to be secured with anything.
Use a couple of muffin pan from Goodwill to keep your screws and small parts organized.
Once you are done, then re-synch the carbs.


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Is the mat really necessary, or can I just get rid of it?
I think the mat is there to isolate the carbs from some of the rising heat from the engine. If you just remove it you might have trouble with percolation. (fuel boiling out of carbs)
Do a search here for "Saber Cycle" threads. Very interesting reading. Their reputation for service and quality of parts is off the charts negative. The kit you purchased may be just fine but you also may be searching in vain for your hesitation problem. Just something to consider.
...IMHO this is the culprit...
+1... Also, while you're re-installing the carbs, put a thin layer of Air Filter Grease on the Rubber Boots, to otherwise prevent a Lean condition caused by air leakage at that joint.

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Thanks, for the help.
Replaced new jet with old jets but used new o-rings, replaced vacuum pistons, accelerator pump parts, replaced vacuum hoses under mat and did idle drop test.
Bike is now running better than ever.
Thanks again you guys are great.
I love this place. jimsjinx
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