Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

41 - 42 of 42 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,275 Posts
Joe, adjusting that thing is not quite as easy as it might sound. Here is a tutorial on how its done. I think the lock nuts on the top are 30mm. The steering stem adjustment nut needs a special tool to fit into the tabs to tighten it. You can either modify a socket to work on it or do like I did and buy one that is made for it. I think I paid $30 for one from a guy that makes them. The one from Honda is crazy expensive.


https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=12367


Here is where I got my steering stem spanner wrench. It is advertised as being for an 1800 but it is the same for the 1500 and probably the earlier GLs also.
http://dhsracing.com/GL1800tools.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Joe, adjusting that thing is not quite as easy as it might sound. Here is a tutorial on how its done. I think the lock nuts on the top are 30mm. The steering stem adjustment nut needs a special tool to fit into the tabs to tighten it. You can either modify a socket to work on it or do like I did and buy one that is made for it. I think I paid $30 for one from a guy that makes them. The one from Honda is crazy expensive.


https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=12367


Here is where I got my steering stem spanner wrench. It is advertised as being for an 1800 but it is the same for the 1500 and probably the earlier GLs also.
http://dhsracing.com/GL1800tools.htm
Thanks for the info. I reviewed the information a few times to digest the processes involved; yes it looks to be quite tedious. But I refuse to spend $320 bucks at a Honda Shop for them to replace the head bearings.

As far as I can tell, I do not believe my bearings are worn out since there is no grinding or chaffing of any kind during steering bar osculation. I did however find play when grabbing the front wheel and doing a push-pull test; the entire wheel and fork assembly will move about an 8th of an inch. So I suspect it is loose, or possibly the bearing races are worn. So I figured I'd try to re-torque them first. If the wheel still has movement, then I will replace the bearings and races. Should be a fun job. I will go ahead and replace my front forks as well since the left one leaks a tiny bit of oil through the upper seal.

Joe
 
41 - 42 of 42 Posts
Top