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Discussion Starter #81
Sounds like you are talking about a compression test. Leakdown tests are only done dry and involve a leakdown tester. if excessive then you listen at the oil fill, exhaust or intake for air escaping and that tells you where your problem lies. As far as I am concerned a leakdown test is much more accurate and telling than a compression test.
Oh yes, forgot about that test, but unfortunately I do not have the leak-down test tool. I had one but my son likes to go shopping for tools in my garage. :ROFL: He sees what he likes and all of a sudden the tool grows a pair of legs and moves out...into his garage or tool box. I'll have to pick up another test gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Bike is all back together and wiped down. This is day one after yesterday's soaking with B12 Chemtool fuel treatment. I put about 1/3 can directly into the carbs and ran the engine until it started smoking really bad. Huh? Word of advice...where a mask if you have one. The fumes from B12 are very toxic and can indeed cause you to pass out. I got light headed. My stupid fault as I forgot B12 uses Toluene as one of its cleaning agents, and it is toxic.

Ran the bike for about 40 miles and it got better over time. While the jerking did not totally vanish, it happens much lesser, and my acceleration is a lot stronger now. The bike will actually spin the rear tires on hard takeoff if you're not careful. No, she's not a race bike, but I'm not used to having that kind of low-end torque on a GL1500; at least not from mine. I also noticed my fuel mileage getting better. On average, she only got about 28mpg to 32mpg, which kind of sucked if you ask me. I haven't filled the tank again as I'm down to a half-tank of fuel. So I will let you know if she improves more. I will continue using B12 Chemtool.

Lastly, the jerking has reduced to a flutter. So instead of the bike jerking really bad, it flutters and makes a brrrr sound when you accelerate hard and low RPM. Some of this I presume is the difficulty in burning the fuel additive as it tends to want to stall the bike. I still have more than a half-can left so I will continue using the treatment until the entire can is gone. If this doesn't work, and a bleed down test fails, then I guess I will be yanking those beautiful heads.

Joe
 

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You just need to ride that bad boy,my 1500 has gobs of torque at low rpm,25 mph in 5 and it pulls right out and goes,.I use RXP from Autozone every now and then but mine runs great at 96,000
 

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I would try new spark plugs even if the current ones look good. Had the exact same symptoms with my work truck. Spark was breaking down under higher compression when slightly lugging the engine like when going up hills. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #86
You just need to ride that bad boy,my 1500 has gobs of torque at low rpm,25 mph in 5 and it pulls right out and goes,.I use RXP from Autozone every now and then but mine runs great at 96,000
Going to do that today. Plan on riding about 100 miles give or take. See if i can't blow any combustion garbage out of the system. :grin3: A bit warm today, but at least the sun is out, so time to catch the wind on my knees. I'll try capturing a few video clips.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
I would try new spark plugs even if the current ones look good. Had the exact same symptoms with my work truck. Spark was breaking down under higher compression when slightly lugging the engine like when going up hills. Good luck!
Hmmmmm? You might be right. The plugs on mine look almost new. But now that I think about it, it is acting like a weak spark and might explain why a lot of the jerking subsides if the bike has been on the road for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Those plugs are what the Honda uses in that bike.
They don't seem expensive to me, and they are the correct heat range etc for that bike.
What are using now?

Remember, you get what you pay for, or as my late mother in-law used to say, "he who goes cheap pays twice".

https://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/gl1500_valkyrie_spark_plugs/158744/4111
Well I owe you sincere gratitude and you WERE RIGHT! Problem solved!!!! Turns out the bike at the WRONG plugs installed. Previous owner purchased high temperature/high RPM plugs which were not burning the fuel efficiently, or was probably too hot and igniting the fuel too soon, thus leading to spark knock or flat out misfire! My problem is SOLVED! Zero stumble, stall or hesitation! I'm so freaking happy man! And I've got power that I never knew this bike had!!!!

Thanks bro! Lunch on me if you are ever in SC.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Western asks $1.92 each for plugs.
You may be able to get them at your local dealer for 15 bucks a set.
I installed them about 30 mins ago and got them from Honda for a little over $12 bucks. PROBLEM SOLVED!

The old plugs were the wrong ones, PN DPR8EA-9 which are high RPM high temperature plugs. The bike is supposed to have PN DPR7EA-9, and that is what I just installed. Bike runs super cool, no jerking at any RPM, under load, or any gear. CASE CLOSED! 8 months of troubleshooting and probably $150 bucks wasted on unnecessary part swaps. LOL

I can now officially close this case. Now on to the body and paint, and later wheel and tire upgrades, and more external lighting. Ya Hoo!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #93
UPDATE:

The time has now come to say........wait for it......wait for it......AH HAAAAAA!!!!!!

Ladies and gentlemen, we have lift off, and the Goldwing now purrrrs like a kitten and hauls a$$ like a leopard. Turns out the incorrect spark plugs were installed by the original owner. For some reason, he installed high temperature and high RPM plugs designed for excessive long term high RPM riding near maximum. But who does that on a Goldwing man? Honestly? Who does that? Well sometimes I do but only for short distances.

The correct plugs are now installed, PN DPR7EA-9....previous owner used DPR8EA-9 which are too hot and causing stumble at low RPM load. Turns out the forward left cylinder plug was very white and hot, while the rest appeared normal.

So to all who recommended I check the plugs earlier, I'll go ahead and say it. YOU WERE RIGHT! And I thank you for your help. As a matter of fact, some of the mechanics at Honda (in my town) made a bet with me today that if the plugs turn out to be the problem (as they suggested last year), then I owe them a days worth of work. LOL I'm scheduled to report for duty on Monday at 0900 hours til closing. LOL

So hats off to all of you! You guys rock!!!! One final question. WHY AIN'T WE RIDING?
 

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It is amazing what one heat range difference will make on a tightly controlled engine. I think there is more to it then that, those plugs may have been gas fouled at one time or another and that will totally destroy a plug. For some reason they will never run right again. They are only one step up so they really should not make much difference other than wear faster and possibly burn a piston at very long extended high speed runs. I am talking running right on the rev limit.
 

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I think there is more to it then that, those plugs may have been gas fouled at one time or another and that will totally destroy a plug. For some reason they will never run right again
If one does not own a spark plug cleaner they will never be right.:smile2:
 

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Even with a cleaner, when I was racing if we gas fouled a set of plugs and tried to clean and reuse them it bit us every time. I just ran into that with my 06 Mustang. Brand new plugs at 12 dollars each! Fouled them out due to an electronics problem, cleaned them with the plug cleaner and the car would barely even start. Another new set (Ouch) and it ran perfect, dynoed 420 horse on the spot.
 

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The correct plugs are now installed, PN DPR7EA-9....previous owner used DPR8EA-9 which are too hot and causing stumble at low RPM load.
Actually you have that bass acwards.
The DPR8EA-9 is a cooler running spark plug than the DPR7EA-9 to prevent pre-ignition under extreme use.
 

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Actually you have that bass acwards.
The DPR8EA-9 is a cooler running spark plug than the DPR7EA-9 to prevent pre-ignition under extreme use.
That's right Ken. NGK number goes up, temp goes down. And I'm not subscribing to the heat range making that big a difference either. One range change would take some time to rear it's head. We just had bad spark plugs. See the second post. Satchmo gl is blowing his own horn........
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Well crap! I'm a little pissed right now. I took the bike out yesterday to have dinner with the family and it ran beautifully! Upon returning, again it rode beautiful. But I decided to remove the superbrace front fork plate I installed last week because the front was riding a bit stiff; I felt nearly every ripple or imperfection from the road. So I came home, placed the Goldwing on its rear stand, made the changes, and rolled the bike back onto the ground. Started the bike and it struggled as it usually did before replacing the plugs, whereas the bike would fire right up without throttling after I replaced the plugs. Took the bike out for another spin to test the front forks, and damn it if the bike didn't start jerking again under load. Thinking maybe I didn't give the bike a chance to warm up yet, I rode a few miles and throttled it again under load, and AGAIN it started jerking!

Okay so why would the bike run good for about 20 miles with brand new plugs, and then start to run like crap again after bouncing the bike back onto the ground from its jack stand? This is definitely an ignition issue of some kind. Could it be the wiring harness that might have a weak connection and I probably jerked it loose? I know that the wiring harness that sits atop of the right cooling fan caused problems before. Does anyone know if the coil pack electrical supply comes off the harness attached to the right cooling fan on top?

This might also be indicative of a bad spark plug wire; there is one that is stretched kind of tight. But I'm leaning more towards a bad connection to the coils, or a weak coil. Seems that the new plugs gave the engine new temporary life with a slightly stronger spark. But perhaps the coils are not putting out enough heat. Since the jerking occurs with either the hotter or colder plugs, it cannot therefore be a plug issue, but has to be one of the only 3 things left:

1. Bad wire connection somewhere limiting voltage to the coil
2. Bad coil
3. Weak plug wires

At least I know I'm headed in the right direction since this is happening with both the old and the new plugs. The old plugs were the hotter plugs (now that I've been corrected on the NKG number), and the new plugs are the cooler ones, and yet the bike is misfiring again.

Damn it! I knew I counted my chickens too soon. I think I'll just replace the coils AND the damn wires. And if that doesn't fix it, then it's got to be a electrical harness issue. Right now, I'm thinking weak coil.
 
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