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Discussion Starter #121
I've been following this thread and doing the suggest repairs/replacements. Temp sensor in the water pipe. Checking all vac. lines for proper connections. It's been weeks since the carb was off so I can't remember seeing the bent or kinked vacuum lines. Gad, I hate to pull that off again. I have not checked the plugs, but will tonight. The bike has been setting for 6 yrs. Carbs rebuilt, lots of little things repaired and replaced throughout the systems. It runs much better than a few month back but now has this surge at low throttle, as the core of this thread is focused on. Here's a video I shot tonight of the bike fully warmed up, throttle set to 2k rpms and held. No choke. Really frustrating to say the least.
https://youtu.be/428yrXPoxcU

Thanks for the help on this.

That sounds awful! First, I suspect the fuel mixture is not right. Did you sync the carbs and also perform adjustment of the idle mixture screw?


Also sounds like it is misfiring on 1 or 2 cylinders. Have you checked the plugs and wires? And also the C57 electrical connector on the harness above the right radiator cooling fan?


That sounds like an obvious misfire going on. Leaking vacuum lines will also cause problems, but in my honest opinion, based on what I'm hearing, you are having a fuel mixture issue, along with possible fouled plugs. I'm learning that the nickel plated plugs on these machines do not last very long.
 

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Discussion Starter #122
You guys are making me feel guilty. I've got better than 40K miles on the plugs in my 1500. Fuel economy is still at 37 mpg or better and the engine runs great. By the way, there is 173000 miles on the bike. Guess I should change those plugs soon.

That's very good! I wish mine got 37 mpg. The weird thing is on some days, I actually got about 38mpg; I have yet to break 40mpg. But it seems on average, I'm getting about 32-34mpg. What's your secret? :laugh:


Just out of curiosity, do you remember the last time you tuned the carbs? If so, do you recall how many turns you did on the idle mixture screws? Mine I set at 3.5 turns. But to be honest, with the idle mixture screws all of the way in, I noticed RPM increases and stabilization at just 1.5 turns and there was no change on up to 3.5 turns. So I just left them their. Perhaps I should do it right and back them all of the way in, and turn the screws out until RPM increases and stop right there.
 

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Trimsters, you need to start your own thread if you want help with your bike's issues.
Aren't the issues the same? I'll start a new thread. But thought it more economical if I posted within a similar issue thread.
 

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The Honda Service Manual states plug replacement at 12.5K mile intervals.
That's better than the recommended 4K miles for the four bangers.:surprise:

That's just recommended service intervals, nothing to do with reality. They say 16,000 mi. on 1800s but I run them 50K with no problem and they still look good when I change them.
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Bike ran beautiful today. No jerking of any kind, very smooth ride, lots of low-end torque, and no stalling. So problem solved. I think the bike will be near perfect once I replace the plug wires, and the exhaust system. I found an exhaust leak at the collector (what ever its called) that comes off the exhaust manifold and joins in with the mufflers. That's not a very cheap part either. Way too expensive. If it's just a hole, I'll probably try plugging it with JB weld or something. LOL Do Goldwing's really need that thing? Wouldn't the bike run just fine if I substituted the collector for a V-pipe which I saw on Ebay? It's basically a u-shaped pipe with welded fittings; one side for the exhaust manifold connection, and the other for the muffler connection. Anyone ever use these? Refer to to the picture.


My little trick to create a little backpressure seems to have worked. I simply stuffed the chrome end-cap (custom exhaust cap) with baffle wrap made of fiberglass (yes my arms are itching like crazy), and made sure that the holes are cleared of any debris or obstruction. Dropped the noise level down by about 10% percent and now the bike sounds clean. I noticed a slight increase in low-end torque from this. I'm sure the bike will run even better with the factory mufflers and collector fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
One of the first things I did years ago was remove my whole exhaust system, wire wheel all the joints and replace all the gaskets and copper crush seals at the manifolds too. Tightened up the system.

Looks great!



I found the exhaust leak; it's coming from the right exhaust manifold (one of the exhaust pipes); it's the one lowest to the ground. It appears the original owner dropped the bike on the right side, and damaged the right exhaust manifold. He also bent the forward lower cover bolt (or the lower frame) and I cannot get a socket on it so that I can remove the lower fairing. Man this poor bike was abused and yet I just hit 40,000 miles. Technically, notwithstanding its age (1997 Goldwing), this bike is fairly new in a way. I can't believe how neglected this fine machine has had to endure. Thank goodness her new owner cares for his machines, and I'm going to eventually repair every nick, glitch, cosmetic discrepancy, and any other "gig" (Air Force term for discrepancy) I can find.



Rode the bike all day today with a friend. Went to the lake to check out some skin. Neither of us were very impressed if you catch my drift.


Bike had one hickup today, but appears to be fuel related. Came to a stop light and I smelled rich gas. I didn't see anything coming out of the drain tubes, but I think one of the floats didn't close all of the way, and so flooded the engine a little. So I bounced the throttle a few times to burn any access fuel, and within moment she returned to normal. I think I will definitely yank those carbs off next month once my parts come in, replace the float needle and seat, and set the floats at 8mm instead of 7mm as they are now. I may have to stop using ethanol based fuel and go back to using straight gasoline.



Anyone else having problems using modern fuels?
 

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100% Gasoline is scarce in Denver, so I've given in and buy the fuel with booze in it. Never had any issues with it, and when I do find 100% Gasoline, frankly, I don't really notice any difference....
 

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I just returned from a round trip to Colorado Springs and I can tell you that my 2001 Suburban damn sure knows the difference between booze fuel and pure gas.


E-0 is very scare in Colorado, but if you search hard enough, you can find it. The Maverick Country Store in N.E. Colorado Springs has it, as does a store down in the south end of 'Springs.


I found in Pueblo, CO that 3 stores that were advertised to carry E-0 don't, but found a Race Track owner that carries E-0 in 91, 100, 110 grades does. filled the Suburban with 91 there, he is just south of the Pueblo Air Museum. great place.


With E-0 the 5.3L v8 in the Suburban will develop enough torque to pull the Toy Hauler which was loaded to 9,000 lbs up grades of 4% without downshifting. 8% grades pulled it down into 1st gear.


with E-10 in the tank, it won't even get up to speed with the CC on and upshift into 3rd gear ( Tow Haul mode )


there is a lot of BTU difference between E-0 and E-10 and when the torque hits the ground it shows up fast. when E-0 will make 8.5 to 9.0 mpg and E-10 only makes about 7.0 mpg it is apparent fast.
 

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Just out of curiosity, do you remember the last time you tuned the carbs? If so, do you recall how many turns you did on the idle mixture screws? Mine I set at 3.5 turns. But to be honest, with the idle mixture screws all of the way in, I noticed RPM increases and stabilization at just 1.5 turns and there was no change on up to 3.5 turns. So I just left them their. Perhaps I should do it right and back them all of the way in, and turn the screws out until RPM increases and stop right there.
Unless it was tuned in the first 2245 miles of its existence, the carbs have never been touched. I have put over 170K miles on it since 2004 when I bought it. I've gotten as low as 28 mpg pulling a trailer in a headwind and as high as 43 mpg on a good day of riding with an average of 37 mpg over the last month.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Unless it was tuned in the first 2245 miles of its existence, the carbs have never been touched. I have put over 170K miles on it since 2004 when I bought it. I've gotten as low as 28 mpg pulling a trailer in a headwind and as high as 43 mpg on a good day of riding with an average of 37 mpg over the last month.

Mine is still averaging about 36mpg. Not sure if that's good or bad. Hard to tell with my year model. What's interesting is my friends 98 Goldwing GL1500 seems to average about 40mpg. I'm not sure if the carbs are setup the same as mine or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
UPDATE:


Hi all! Just wanted to let everyone know that I'm still riding with my knees in the wind. Have a little update for you all with the Goldwing.



I found another problem and might explain the reason why the older plugs fouled so easily. It appears the left carburetor float might be failing at times. I noticed that when I fill the bike up to the max (fuel), and park the bike, I can smell fuel leaking down into the intake manifold. This morning, when I started the bike, a ton of smoke came out of the exhaust as though a lot of fuel drained into the intake manifold over night. I know it is the right side. But after driving it for a while and the fuel level drops some, the floats work just fine (as far as I can tell). But this morning you could smell the fuel. Right now there is no fuel smell parked.


If you recall, I originally set the floats at 7mm last summer when I did a partial rebuild of the carbs (cleaning out the jets). Now that I have the kit, I'm going to rebuild the entire thing and soak it in carb cleaner over night, and then blow all the holes and ports out with an air hose. Then I will replace all the seals, jets, and if needed the slide boots. And I will set the floats at 8mm since that is what the book says, although the book also says 7mm. Anyone know which is the correct limit?



I suspect the floats being set at 7mm might be allowing too much fuel into the intake (running rich). I might also have the air-mixture screws set to far out (3.5 turns). I'm going to do it right this time, turn the screws all of the way, and slowly back them out until I see an RPM increase. Even if only 1.5 turns are required, then that is where I will set them. I believe the manual recommends setting them at 2.5 turns initially and adjusting accordingly, in or out.


I'm hopeful that rebuilding the carbs will result in proper fuel mixture, and hopefully boost my fuel economy to about 40mpg, vs. the 36mpg I'm getting now.


On a side note, I was hospitalized for a day due to heat stress. We in SC have been enduring terrible heat indexes of up to 112 (actual temp being 96). But the humidity is terrible in the south east, making the higher temps unbearable at times. What I wouldn't give to live in a dry climate, even if the temperature reached 110 degrees. I've been to the middle east about 11 times during my days in the USAF, and I can honestly say that dealing with dry heat vs. humidity is far better; humidity sucks guys!
 

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If you have a carburetor flooding when parked you might want to revisit the fuel Petcock valve, it is supposed to shut off the fuel when bike isn't running.....
 

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I am far from an expert on Goldwings but they do have an electric fuel pump so if it is just sitting then no gas is getting to the carb from the tank no matter how full the tank is. So if the manifold is filling up I would check not only the float but also the needle and seat because it could drain what gas is left in the line into the carb even if the float is in the proper position.
 

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I am far from an expert on Goldwings but they do have an electric fuel pump so if it is just sitting then no gas is getting to the carb from the tank no matter how full the tank is. So if the manifold is filling up I would check not only the float but also the needle and seat because it could drain what gas is left in the line into the carb even if the float is in the proper position.
OP mentioned this occurring on a full tank, which can gravity-feed the carburetors even without the pump running...
 

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OP mentioned this occurring on a full tank, which can gravity-feed the carburetors even without the pump running...
Agree with this.

on the 1500s, if the fuel tank is full to the cap or nearly so, and the Fuel Petcock Shutoff valve has a bad diaphragm ( pinhole ) it will NOT shut off, and gas flows to the carbs by gravity feed.

And if the floats are not properly set, or the bike is on the sidestand, they won't prevent it from getting flooded.
 

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See, told you I wasn't an expert. LOL. I had my tank filled real close to full when I had my carbs off and no gas came out of the line other than what was in the line so that is why I said that. A petcock repair kit came with my bike but I guess I do not need it, the bike sat with the carbs off and the line hanging for several days and no gas came out.
 

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See, told you I wasn't an expert. LOL. I had my tank filled real close to full when I had my carbs off and no gas came out of the line other than what was in the line so that is why I said that. A petcock repair kit came with my bike but I guess I do not need it, the bike sat with the carbs off and the line hanging for several days and no gas came out.
I guess you are correct then, the petcock does not need to be rebuilt. It is doing its job quite well.
 
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