[rkjjeep]

imported post

The driving lights (lower lamps in fairing) do not work. They worked the day I looked at the bike, and the next day when I picked the bike up they did not work. I've looked at all the wiring diagrams in the Clymer and they all seem to run the power for these lamps thru relays (I believe they were cornering lamps on earlier bikes). I don't believe there's an extra switch or anything - the prev owner says they just came on with the lights. Can someone describe the power supply for these (i.e from this switch to that relay to the lamp). Is there some common reason they just quit? I've powered up the bulbs, they're fine, there's no voltage at the sockets for these lights. Thanks!

 

[Tonys96]

imported post

I don't have the wiring at my fingertips, but:

I don't recall any of the GL1500's stock with driving lights, maybe I'm just getting old.

I do recall an aftermarket driving light kit made by Add-On. I have that on mine.

I guess that I'd just check the lights with the turnsignals first.

OK, if they don't work with the turnsignals, you'll need to pull the fairing lowers, the part with the lights in them you'll need to remove the chin fairing as well, be carefull and get all the screws out. (yep, I broke one)

You should see the wires going to the lights, do the standard testing, looking for voltage with the key on, there should be a connection about 4-6" below the fairing where the light harness plugs into the bike, there (if aftermarket) should be a jumper there as well. The jumper keeps the circuit hot all the time, bypassing the signal from the turn switch.

Let me know what you find.

 

[Eamonn1200]

imported post

From 1998 on the SE got driving lights in place of the cornering lights.

 

[rkjjeep]

imported post

After getting over being a alittle intimidated by the plastic I pulled it off to look at the wiring. I have a good ground (green) and a 12v feed when the lights are on. I looked at the 18W bulbs and the filaments appear intact, but bulbs are NOT good when checked for continuity.
it's just the bulb. Power is fed to both with a brown with white tracer wire (green ground).
Off to the auto parts. Thanks, Bob

 

[Tonys96]

imported post

I see a brighter future for you:goofygrin:

 

[yellowwing]

imported post

The bulb holders are rubbish on the lower lights as well. Make sure thay aren't crisped up and starting to crack.

 

[rkjjeep]

imported post

The holders look fine - any auto parts sub for these "stanley 12v 18/18w" bulbs?
Thanks! Bob

 

[rkjjeep]

imported post

I could NOT find any sub for the Honda bulbs in our Big Bulb book at work. Nothing with the right base and near the right output. Me and the Honda parts guy figured they should be Stanley 12v 18/18w Honda part # 34901-GM0-003 They were in stock.

They were only $20 each (!!!!!):shock:

I noticed on another Wing site that they suggest swapping the contacts out 180 degrees to use the "unburned" filament when one filament burns out (these are indeed 2 filament). I checked the new bulbs with a continuity tester and found that one side is common with the bulb base. Since the case is NOT grounded on these lights, Honda ground them thru a second contact on the base. Both filaments light up all the time - I don't believe one can switch anything around when one burns out. The circuit is between the two contacts.

The lights look GREAT. Bob

 

[Tonys96]

imported post

Is the base metal kind of at an angle on those bulbs. So it points the bulb straight down the road.

 

[twisty]

imported post

rkjjeep wrote:

I could NOT find any sub for the Honda bulbs in our Big Bulb book at work. Nothing with the right base and near the right output. Me and the Honda parts guy figured they should be Stanley 12v 18/18w Honda part # 34901-GM0-003 They were in stock.

They were only $20 each (!!!!!):shock:

I noticed on another Wing site that they suggest swapping the contacts out 180 degrees to use the "unburned" filament when one filament burns out (these are indeed 2 filament). I checked the new bulbs with a continuity tester and found that one side is common with the bulb base. Since the case is NOT grounded on these lights, Honda ground them thru a second contact on the base. Both filaments light up all the time - I don't believe one can switch anything around when one burns out. The circuit is between the two contacts.

The lights look GREAT. Bob

Bob, take another look at those bulb sockets. If it is a dual filament socket it will have a second contact in the socket (probably unused) &a side (base contact) will be the ground for the bulb. Use a test light & test for power on both the contacts (I really don't remember both bottom contacts being used) then look closely where the ground wire enters the socket to see if it goes to a side contact for the bulb base. I had a co-worker that soldered a small wire between the bulb base contacts & got his light to work again but it was a little dimmer looking.

Twisty

 

[englishted]

imported post

twisty wrote:

rkjjeep wrote:

I could NOT find any sub for the Honda bulbs in our Big Bulb book at work. Nothing with the right base and near the right output. Me and the Honda parts guy figured they should be Stanley 12v 18/18w Honda part # 34901-GM0-003 They were in stock.

They were only $20 each (!!!!!):shock:

I noticed on another Wing site that they suggest swapping the contacts out 180 degrees to use the "unburned" filament when one filament burns out (these are indeed 2 filament). I checked the new bulbs with a continuity tester and found that one side is common with the bulb base. Since the case is NOT grounded on these lights, Honda ground them thru a second contact on the base. Both filaments light up all the time - I don't believe one can switch anything around when one burns out. The circuit is between the two contacts.

The lights look GREAT. Bob

Bob, take another look at those bulb sockets. If it is a dual filament socket it will have a second contact in the socket (probably unused) &a side (base contact) will be the ground for the bulb. Use a test light & test for power on both the contacts (I really don't remember both bottom contacts being used) then look closely where the ground wire enters the socket to see if it goes to a side contact for the bulb base. I had a co-worker that soldered a small wire between the bulb base contacts & got his light to work again but it was a little dimmer looking.

Twisty

Twisty has a good point. I only recall two wires going to the tbulb holder, if they are both live then where is the ground?

 

[98Wing-487]

imported post

Replaced both cornering lamps today. Local dealer ,(my bro-in-law works the partscounter),didn't have the $20 bulb in stock, (34901-GMO-003)...so we did some digging. After looking in his inventory and a Parts Unlimited catalog, he hooked me up with a workable replacement.

I replaced the 12v 18/18w Stanly bulb with an Eiko brand # A-3603 It's 12v 25/25w. The only difference is that the tip is not pointed or coated. It's round at the end but has the same flange on it to mount up securely as the OEM bulb. It is used as a headlight bulb for a Honda ATV.

Total cost for both bulbs- $5.72

Daddy like! :banana: