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Discussion Starter #1
So I just purchased my first Goldwing and It had some toggle switches installed for the headlight as well as some bogus LED lights. I removed the LED and re soldered all the wires back in hopes it would work without the toggle switch. I was wrong. I'm thinking they added the toggle to bypass a prior issue with the bike. I have 12v at the fuse and when I run power direct to the harness the lights turn on.

The High beam indicator has never worked and I'm leaning toward either the ground is faulty or possibly the hi/low beam switch? Any insight or links to some walkthroughs on the handlebar controls would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone!
 

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The 2 most common issues are the high low beam switch and the starter switch. There is actually a switch internal the starter switch that turns the headlights off when you start the bike. Screenshot (46).png
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The 2 most common issues are the high low beam switch and the starter switch. There is actually a switch internal the starter switch that turns the headlights off when you start the bike.
Is it safe to assume its the Hi/low switch due to the indicator not working on the dash?
 

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Is it safe to assume its the Hi/low switch due to the indicator not working on the dash?
No, almost never is the high/low switch, as Redwing said it is almost always the start switch. There are also relays involved. Would be good to know what the toggle switch is bypassing.
 
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No, almost never is the high/low switch, as Redwing said it is almost always the start switch. There are also relays involved. Would be good to know what the toggle switch is bypassing.
It was direct from the headlight assembly so It's hard to know. He had it hard wired to the battery directly. Are there guide on disassembling the start switch?
 

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Following up on what Dave said maybe start with the easy stuff first. Did you check the fuse for the headlights. It should be fuse #5 and that is 5th down from the top. Should be a 15 amp. Leave the fuse in place. Take the test light probe on the test light and probe the 2 holes in the face of the fuse as you look at it. Both sides should be hot.

Might have to be patient but if you work with the guys I'm confident you will get your lightts working and know your bike a little better. :)
 

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Following up on what Dave said maybe start with the easy stuff first. Did you check the fuse for the headlights. It should be fuse #5 and that is 5th down from the top. Should be a 15 amp. Leave the fuse in place. Take the test light probe on the test light and probe the 2 holes in the face of the fuse as you look at it. Both sides should be hot.

Might have to be patient but if you work with the guys I'm confident you will get your lightts working and know your bike a little better. :)

I appreciate it. I checked all the fuses on both the fuse panel and under the relays as well. Everything seems to be good. I'm slowly learning how to dismantle this beast in the meantime :ROFLMAO:
 

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Remove the low and high headlight relays. With key on and dimmer low the low relay should have two hot pins, high beam on- high relay should have two hot pins. That will narrow the problem down somewhat as to controls if only one pin gets hot or wiring to headlights if two hot pins. Double check the 5A head relay fuse. Then on to picking a connector to further narrow down or just go to start button if one pin.
 

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Just to clarify what JD was suggesting he is talking about the relay socket with the relays removed. With the switch on low beam you should find 2 terminals in the socket that are hot with the key on and low beams. The same is true with the key on and high beams. There should also be two terminals that are hot in the high beam socket.
Also the 5 amp fuse JD referred to should be fuse #12. Just inspecting a fuse by sight is not always good to do. Not all imperfections are seen very easily. If you get in the habbit of using a test light it will never fool you plus you don't have to plug and unplug the darn things. Wish I had a dollar for all who plugged one in the wrong cavity while checking fuses. That will add tremendously to the frustration of an electrical problem when you start with one issue and end wit two. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So it appears that only one lead on the high beam relay is hot currently. 2 leads gave a reading on the low beam relay.
 

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So it appears that only one lead on the high beam relay is hot currently. 2 leads gave a reading on the low beam relay.
Is that with switching to high beam? It appears that the low beam relay should be working so if it doesn't send power to the headlight either the relay is bad or a connection somewhere between the relay and the headlight, a 4 pin white connector behind the headlight or a 14 pin black connector under the left fairing pocket.
 

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Another thought. You can turn the lights on just like the relays do. Check the picture below and notice the red line across 2 of the terminals. That is of course the relay. Using the picture identify where those 2 terminals would plug in to the socket. Now use a jumper wire and jump from one to the other ON THE SOCKET. With the key on, if you jump those 2 terminals on the low beam socket I would expect the low beams to come on......Do they?

Now do the same exact thing on the high beams. The high beams should light....Do they?

None of the switches matter for this test except the key on. If it works as we hope we know the issue is the relays or before because everything from the relays to the lights worked when you jumped them. Make sense? :)

Screenshot (49)_LI.jpg
 

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Another thought. You can turn the lights on just like the relays do. Check the picture below and notice the red line across 2 of the terminals. That is of course the relay. Using the picture identify where those 2 terminals would plug in to the socket. Now use a jumper wire and jump from one to the other ON THE SOCKET. With the key on, if you jump those 2 terminals on the low beam socket I would expect the low beams to come on......Do they?

Now do the same exact thing on the high beams. The high beams should light....Do they?

None of the switches matter for this test except the key on. If it works as we hope we know the issue is the relays or before because everything from the relays to the lights worked when you jumped them. Make sense? :)

View attachment 322839
This worked!! Relay issue it is! Thanks so much guys! What a relief
 

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This worked!! Relay issue it is! Thanks so much guys! What a relief
Whoa.... not so fast. There is still a possibility there is other issues, To be sure we need to load test the trigger side of the relay. Jimmy up a tail light or turn light light bulb so it has 2 wires. Now put one wire in each of the other two socket terminals. If you can turn the bulb off and on with the bright/dim switch the problem is the relay/s. Do the bulb test for the bright and dim socket. The dimmer switch should control the bulb whether in the bright or dim socket. :)

2020-05-10 (5)_LI.jpg Screenshot (51)_LI.jpg

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Whoa.... not so fast. There is still a possibility there is other issues, To be sure we need to load test the trigger side of the relay. Jimmy up a tail light or turn light light bulb so it has 2 wires. Now put one wire in each of the other two socket terminals. If you can turn the bulb off and on with the bright/dim switch the problem is the relay/s. Do the bulb test for the bright and dim socket. The dimmer switch should control the bulb whether in the bright or dim socket. :)

View attachment 322852 View attachment 322853

Oh.... 😔 Nevermind. That test failed
 

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Alex101, The first thing I always do when the headlights don't work is to check if they work in reverse mode.

That really narrows down the issue and gives you a good starting point for troubleshooting the issue.

If they work in reverse mode, forget about checking relay sockets for power, relays or the dimmer switch...lol....!

If you would like a "detailed' description of how the head light circuit works in drive mode and reverse mode, let me know.

I rode and maintained GL1500's for 26 years...
 

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In that case you have one of two possibilities
1 the switch is u/s although unusual for both outputs to fail
2 the power into the switch has failed. On the 89 model there is a white and blue wire somewhere down by the rh fan (as sat on bike) which is connected sperately outside of a block. Not sure about yours
 

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Mike forgot to tell us the "Brand" of that bulb........!

Also the wattage and how much amperage it draws...!

Don't want to run the battery down while testing.....lol....!!!!!
 

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Oh.... 😔 Nevermind. That test failed
The light bulb did not light? Here is how that circuit works. If you check the first drawing notice the power starts at the 5 amp #12 fuse that you said was good. Current goes down the brown wire with white stripe to the start button. If that button is not pushed (it is free) current can flow through the closed arrow (switch)
Picture B shows after it goes through the start switch current flows via the blue/White wire to the dimmer switch.
Picture C shows that current will come out of leg CC or DD depending if the dimmer switch is ob ho or lo beams then on to the relay sockets where the bulb test was failed. Make sense?
See it?

The issue has to be in one of the items listed above and probably the start switch. If you remove the switch from the handle bars you should see the wire colors with out taking the switch apart. Ask yourself do I have power on both sides of 5 amp fuse #12? If so look at the start switch wiring and ask does it make it doen the Brown/white wire? If you have power there ask Does it flow through the closed switch and come out the blue/white wire etc. You should be able to drill down the issue that way. If having trouble write back your results and the guys will help.

Screenshot (52)_LI.jpg Screenshot (53)_LI.jpg Screenshot (55)_LI.jpg
 
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