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Bike runs well under normal circumstances. As the temp rises to where the fans kick in the bike still runs well. When I shut the bike off for say a lunch break it will start but will only idle. I cannot rev the engine up over 1500 rpm .It sounds and feels like there is water in the carbs. Thinking that water was the problem I poured methyl hydrate into the tank. with no immediate response. This scenario has happened four times last summer. Leaving the bike to cool down seems to be the only solution. A real inconvenience at the border crossing after I was told to shut the bike off. That was a four hour cool down period. I've pretty well ruled out water in the system after pouring five bottles of methyl hydrate thru the system and several full tanks of gas. Now I'm thinking it might be an electrical problem. Possibly a coil or a module that I'm not aware of that malfunctions when the engine gets extremely hot. Cold starts are not a problem .Only when the bike gets overheated does this problem show it's ugly mug. So I am looking to this forum to see if anyone has had this problem or if anyone might have a solution to my problem. Thanks,

Barrie Flyer
 

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Bike runs well under normal circumstances. As the temp rises to where the fans kick in the bike still runs well. When I shut the bike off for say a lunch break it will start but will only idle. I cannot rev the engine up over 1500 rpm .It sounds and feels like there is water in the carbs. Thinking that water was the problem I poured methyl hydrate into the tank. with no immediate response. This scenario has happened four times last summer. Leaving the bike to cool down seems to be the only solution. A real inconvenience at the border crossing after I was told to shut the bike off. That was a four hour cool down period. I've pretty well ruled out water in the system after pouring five bottles of methyl hydrate thru the system and several full tanks of gas. Now I'm thinking it might be an electrical problem. Possibly a coil or a module that I'm not aware of that malfunctions when the engine gets extremely hot. Cold starts are not a problem .Only when the bike gets overheated does this problem show it's ugly mug. So I am looking to this forum to see if anyone has had this problem or if anyone might have a solution to my problem. Thanks,

Barrie Flyer
I does seem like heat is causing the issue. I would suspect fuel delivery before ignition. It could the Auto Fuel Shut Off valve or Fuel Pump. To eliminate the Auto Fuel Shut Off as the problem, you can bypass it and maybe replace the fuel filter while you are at it.
 

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I does seem like heat is causing the issue. I would suspect fuel delivery before ignition. It could the Auto Fuel Shut Off valve or Fuel Pump. To eliminate the Auto Fuel Shut Off as the problem, you can bypass it and maybe replace the fuel filter while you are at it.
 

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Briese, thanks for your response. The fuel filter was replaced after the first episode . Because it is a heat problem I'm probably not going to solve this problem until the hot weather here. In the in term, I have a 1996 se with close to 300,00KM that still runs. I might just swap fuel shut off and fuel pump before the warm weather. Then keep my fingers crossed that I don't need to get to the coils. Thanks for your input.
 

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What about the rubber heat mat under the carbs? That was added specifically for this issue and because they are breaking up with age and make things harder to work on, many have been removed and discarded.
 

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I agree with Briese. Fuel shut off or fuel pump. It is possible the worn fuel pump doesn't like the hotter fuel. It might lose enough viscosity that the worn fuel pump doesn't like to pump it.
With that said I would loosen the fuel cap when it acts up just to be sure the cap is not venting.properly :)
 

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Do a search for information on this part # 36151-MT8-003 Engine coolant temperature sensor. From what I have read it may help.
 

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Do a search for information on this part # 36151-MT8-003 Engine coolant temperature sensor. From what I have read it may help.
Here is the original article but I doubt that is the issue. The symptom of a failed temperature sensor is surging. :)

 

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Alcohol gas vapor locks (boils) easier than straight gas.

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Absolutely right but even the guys from Arizona run it in 110 degree weather without issue.

I kind of think the rubber heat shield is for when the bike is not moving. No air moving around and the heat of the hot engine rising up heating the carbs, tank and lies. With the heat shield installed the heat tries to rise but the shield blocks it. The heat has to drift harmlessly off the sides?????? When you go down the road air is moving through that area blowing hear away.?????
 

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Briese, thanks for your response. The fuel filter was replaced after the first episode . Because it is a heat problem I'm probably not going to solve this problem until the hot weather here. In the in term, I have a 1996 se with close to 300,00KM that still runs. I might just swap fuel shut off and fuel pump before the warm weather. Then keep my fingers crossed that I don't need to get to the coils. Thanks for your input.
I only mentioned the fuel filter because you would most likely have to have the top shelter off or at least propped up to bypass the fuel shut off valve.
I still think bypassing the valve would be the first step in my troubleshooting if it were me. I've had one fail on me in the past and have seen symptoms similar to what you are experiencing.
 

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Briese, thanks for your response. The fuel filter was replaced after the first episode . Because it is a heat problem I'm probably not going to solve this problem until the hot weather here. In the in term, I have a 1996 se with close to 300,00KM that still runs. I might just swap fuel shut off and fuel pump before the warm weather. Then keep my fingers crossed that I don't need to get to the coils. Thanks for your input.
do you have a induction timeing liight, like the on SEARS use to make. about $40.00 on ebay
that will easily tell you if you have spark
 

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Briese, What is the consequence of leaving the auto fuel shut off bypassed? - Bypass it for testing purposes only?
 

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IF,
you had an accident, and the bike is laying on its' side, the fuel pump would keep pushing fuel to the carbs and overflowing onto the ground with you. Even though, the engine had died.

for testing purposes, I have bypassed it briefly.
 

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IF,
you had an accident, and the bike is laying on its' side, the fuel pump would keep pushing fuel to the carbs and overflowing onto the ground with you. Even though, the engine had died.

for testing purposes, I have bypassed it briefly.
No, it will stop if the engine stops.
 

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No, it will stop if the engine stops.
If your bike falls over, the BAS will stop the engine and, as Dave said, the fuel pump will stop also. I think it is there to prevent the fuel from siphoning into the carbs after shutting the bike off if there was a problem with a leaking float valve that could possibly get gas in the cylinders.
 

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And because it has two wheels if an unattended tip over occurs only the fuel in the carbs could leak out onto the ground and not half the tank.
 

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Briese, What is the consequence of leaving the auto fuel shut off bypassed? - Bypass it for testing purposes only?
I do not have first hand knowledge of the consequences of leaving the auto shut off valve bypassed but there would have to be a good reason for it being in the line. Fuel siphoning is a possibility I am sure.

I would disconnect it for troubleshooting purposes. After determining that it is in either good or bad condition, order a rebuild kit or a new assembly and do what is needed. Repair, replace or reinstall it.
 

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Carbs can gravity-feed if fuel tank is more than half full. Vacuum shutoff prevents possibility of hydrolock if a gravity-fed carb runneth-over.
 
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