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Discussion Starter #1
Well hello everyone! Its been a long while since I posted here. After 15yrs of riding I finally have a job that allows me to ride to work everyday. Many who know me know that I have taken a position with my company that allows this now and may I say IT'S WONDERFUL!! Now that the greeting is out of the way, on to business.

2002 gl1800, 149,000mi on the clock- constant brake noise. Pads are dragging most constantly, I can hear it at speed bouncing of the jersey barriers. I did a basic pad replacement at the first of the year. The noise has been there in excess of a year but appears to be getting worse. It is worth noting I can hear the "dragging noise" from front and rear. While performing an inspection the other night i noticed I can not achieve a full, free rotation from the front wheel while on the center stand. Fluid has never been changed to my knowledge and rotors are grooved.

On my agenda is:
-Caliper rebuild
-Rotor replacement
-fluid flush and fill
-MC rebuild

I am struggling to find a "1 stop shop for all the parts" and suggestions or help would be appreciated.
 

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Well hello everyone! Its been a long while since I posted here. After 15yrs of riding I finally have a job that allows me to ride to work everyday. Many who know me know that I have taken a position with my company that allows this now and may I say IT'S WONDERFUL!! Now that the greeting is out of the way, on to business.

2002 gl1800, 149,000mi on the clock- constant brake noise. Pads are dragging most constantly, I can hear it at speed bouncing of the jersey barriers. I did a basic pad replacement at the first of the year. The noise has been there in excess of a year but appears to be getting worse. It is worth noting I can hear the "dragging noise" from front and rear. While performing an inspection the other night i noticed I can not achieve a full, free rotation from the front wheel while on the center stand. Fluid has never been changed to my knowledge and rotors are grooved.

On my agenda is:
-Caliper rebuild
-Rotor replacement
-fluid flush and fill
-MC rebuild

I am struggling to find a "1 stop shop for all the parts" and suggestions or help would be appreciated.
I think what you have listed as "work to do" might well fix the issue. Make sure all the rattle clips are there and in good shape. Also make sure the calipers float and are not stuck in one position. If there is an issue with the calper pistons you will notice that when you push the piston back in. Given all that I bet the bike will be nice and quiet again.:)

FYI, it is a good idea to open the bleeder screw and then push the pistons in. Better than pushing that old rusty fluid back in the system. Especially if it has ABS.
 

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Be aware.
There is a recall for all 1800 where Honda gives you a new rear master cylinder and a new secondary master cylinder(located on the left front fork) and a complete fluss on the pedal operated system for FREE.(IF your rear caliper have been dragging the MAY even give you an new rear rotor).
Eaysier and cheaper than an rebuild on these parts !
Talk to your Honda dealer (he needs your WIN).
 

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...2002 gl1800, 149,000mi...
On my agenda is:
-Caliper rebuild
-Rotor replacement
-fluid flush and fill
-MC rebuild
...

No obvious need to rebuild the Brake Caliber[/s] or (MC)Master Cylinders, or replace the rotors... Just Flush and check Pad Thickness, and Clean the Caliper Parts (especially the slide pins)


My concern it that it's never had the fluids changed... That's not good, as the brake/clutch fluid should be changed ever 2yrs.
I'd add a Service of the Clutch Slave Cylinder to your list... as it's probably gunked up by now, due to water in the lines.
 
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2012 GL1800
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459 Posts
Make sure the calipers are floating free. They should move slightly when you push them side to side. The caliper bolts may be corroded. Remove and clean them and they apply a film of brake grease. If the are too bad, replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So Out of curiosity and for fun I thought I would do a run out on each rotor to see where the main issue might be lying. Took a video of each side, incase anyone ever needed an idea of how to do this. Truth be told, the unit of measurement was not critical to me so much as identifying any possible warpage.

This first link is of the driver side rotor. Not near as bad as I expected but still not to my standards either. Now keep in mind I am measuring in .0001" . With that said I will be replacing this rotor.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Klcpk2Byr1QWVtGNXICISFiCc4CPAPft

This next link is of the Passenger side. As you can tell there is a definite warpage on this rotor.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pRHDXDNLNDhMmXi0R0XXklJQ0Mb_JXMz

With these findings, I want to rule out wheel bearings as well. So new rotors, Cleaning, flush, and lubing calipers and brake system, wheel bearings, new pads even though the are new.
 
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