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I just bought a 2002 gl1800. I had been riding a 95 gl1500, but the transmission blew up on it and I decided to move up to the 1800. My wife and I have a tent trailer that we towed on the 95, but my new bike doesn’t have a hitch. Can anybody suggest a good one to buy that won’t break the bank, and is hopefully relatively easy to install?

Thanks!
 

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make sure it is the solid steel frame members that bolt clear up to the seat/trunk.
Mine looks like an 'H' frame, has the vertical receiver.

Nothing about it is wimpy, dunno the brand, it was there when I bought the bike.

it is solid as a rock, the trailer becomes "invisible" behind me as to "feeling it".
have to look in the mirrors to be sure it is still there.

pulled it thru the tightest twisties without even feeling that it is there.

can't find my pictures of it right now, on a new laptop.
 

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I have an Add-On hitch also and have had no issue with probably 20k miles trailering. I've hauled as much as 550 lbs and no problems. This hitch has 6 connection points, uses a vertical receiver so you needn't cut any tupperware. While you're at this you'll probably need a 5 to 4 wire converter for your trailer, assuming it's a flat four connection. Most would also advise a trailer isolator. With a bit of planning you could have both a 4 and 5 wire trailer connections for flexibility. I also added a connection for an electric cooler power through a relay triggered of the auxiliary power so it shuts off with the key to save your battery. Probably 3 hours work and your done.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

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+1 on the Trailer Isolator, -1 on the 5-to-4 converters.

The Isolator saves putting extra load on your turnsignal / brake / running light circuits, it's a little relay bank that's triggered by the lighting circuits but sends power direct from the battery to your trailer lights instead of loading the circuits directly. Cyclemax has them, they are plug-and-play install.

https://www.cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/gl1800_isolated_trailer_harness/120/418532

My experience with 5-4 wire converters is less than stellar, while they DO work, the internal voltage drops in combining the brake and turnsignal lines resulted in brake/turn light on the trailer that wasn't that much brighter than the running light. I figure visibility on the bike to be of paramount importance so I ditched the converter, and added separate bright amber turnsignal fixtures to the trailer on a separate plug, leaving the original 4 wire plug intact so I can still use the trailer on my Jeep which has only 4 wire plug. So two plugs to connect trailer to bike, only use the 4 wire plug on the Jeep. Works perfect.
 

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mine is an '02 and never been a problem.

at this point in time, all of the "problems" that would show up with the Gen 1 bikes would have already shown up.

If the bike is low miles the frame cracks might not have shown up yet. I agree that most owners of the early wings have had the recalls completed but there are still out there that have not had it completed.
Here are a few places that cracks have appeared, some are not covered under Honda re weld program
There are other areas that are known to crack on pre 05 models.

Here is a picture of where to look. The most common is right behind the passenger footrest. You will have to remove the passenger floor board and silver cover. You may also be able to see it from underneath the bike.
 

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True, the isolator will reduce electrical loads on the bike circuits. However, I feel the best reason to use one is to protect the bike wiring. If the trailer develops a short circuit then the fuse (located close to the battery) for the isolator circuit will protect the trailer and isolator wires. If this fuse opens, you will still have all the bike's normal lighting intact.
 

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I too agree with using an isolator to keep wiring separate although some say it's not necessary. For me it's just piece of mind. I also use a 5-4 converter to match the bike side 5 wire to my cargo trailer 4 flat. I originally tried the Addon 5-4 converter and had nothing but problems with it. I ended up going with a Hopkins 48895 and it works great. There is no issue with brightness and everything lights up as it should. One thing to mention is that my cargo trailer is all LED lighting and I chose the Hopkins because it specifically works with LED lights but is also incandescent compatible. One thing I did to though was shorten the wiring between the converter and the 4 flat output as it was just way too long to hide.
 

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I also have a Add On Hitch. Have well over 20,000 miles of towing my Roll A Home camper. I have had it over 600 lbs and no problems. For your bike, make sure you get a Gen 1 hitch. The Gen 2 hitch is for the 2012 to 17 wing. Another vote for the trailer light isolator. A must have.
 
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