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Hi All,

I just got through reworking the windshield mounting system on my '02. This started out as 'my windshield will go up but not down' because several of the clamping pads got mangled by the PO. There are no pics (sorry) but most of it is easy to visualize. The text is long....sorry about that...but I have a few tricks within that might be used for other purposes.

First, I ordered a set of replacement clamping pads from my local dealer (about $2.50 apiece...six needed). Nothing had to come apart at this point for diagnosis as one of the old pads came out of the dash. There is only one part number for all years

Taking the cowl off by following the shop manual is lengthy and a PITA...the two M6x8 bolts (one per side) can easily be accessed if you pull the rubber mirror trim away from the cowl and loosen the bolts with a 10mm open end wrench...BUT...you need a thin telescoping magnet to catch the bolt and flat washer. Be very gentle and remove both without disturbing the rubber grommet under the washer.

I used a long set of needle-nosed pliers to remove the grommets. Be careful and gentle. If they fall into the fairing, you might get lucky and find them under the storage boxes (more work)! I got both out with no difficulty. If you played 'Operation' as a kid (and won), this will be no problem.

The cowl comes out by prying gently on either side at the ears where your grommets were held. Lift up slightly to clear the bolt mounting post, and then just slightly more to clear the two rear vertical mounting pins (one per side) BUT DON'T LIFT UP TOO FAR...there are two horizontal pins in the nose immediately above headlight center. Pull the cowl horizontally away from the front of the bike and set aside.

Next, release both windshield clamp levers.

The clamping bar comes off by two M6 nuts (10mm socket)--- one on each windshield clamp lever linkage. Once again, break it loose with the socket, spin it out with your fingers, catch it with the magnet. One bolt remains at the bottom of the clamping bar. It's hidden by the rigid plastic triangular air deflector...simply pivot this out of the way to access the bolt, and use an 8mm socket to remove. The clamping bar comes off easily at this point.

I removed all six of the clamping pads, cleaned the bar with isopropyl alcohol, and coated the mounting areas with contact cement (I used Weldwood Brand). I used isopropyl alcohol to clean the new pads. When dry, the back of the pads got contact cement as well. The pads were attached through their rubber pins (pull through). The contact cement anchors the pad corners and keeps them from curling.

The windshield comes off by removing the guide screws (Phillips #3 screwdriver) and the two center M5 allen socket bolts (5mm 'T' handle wrench) one Phillips screw remains between both allen socket bolts. Do not remove this screw.

Remove and clean your windshield. You would be surprised how dirty the unexposed section is. Set aside.

More likely than not, all of the anti-friction tape on the dash (looks like black electrical tape) has slipped, lost adhesion, or curled up. Pull it all off and throw it away. Use mineral spirits and a shop rag or cotton hand towel to remove the adhesive. Use mineral spirits and elbow grease only...mineral spirits won't hurt the plastic, and the rag won't gouge the surface. Plan on at least a half hour of wetting...and rubbing...and wetting...and rubbing.

Once the mineral spirits has evaporated, clean the tape surfaces again with isopropyl alcohol and a clean towel to make sure no petroleum distillate is left behind.

You will now need 3/4" wide Velcro...the 'fuzzy' side only. In the US, hardware stores sell it in 5' lengths prepackaged...get two. You will have some left over (a little less than a foot) and will probably find a use.

Replace all locations previously having anti-friction tape with velcro. I cut three pieces (two ends and a center) to handle the arc of the dash top to avoid 'bunching' by using one continuous strip.

The center windshield guide has a track behind it. Raise the guide to it's maximum, and place a small amount of silicone grease on each track (I used the same dielectric grease found in the handlebar switch fix). Work the guide up and down to distribute the grease, then make sure the guide is at it's lowest point.

Reinstall the windshield and place the clamp bar in position, making sure the lower bolt is in place and the locking lever rod ends engage the clamp bar on both ends.

AT THIS TIME...REPEAT THE FOLLOWING...'CONTACT CEMENT IS MY FRIEND'...AT LEAST THREE TIMES. HERE'S WHY:
Contact cement (properly used) will keep your bolts, washers, grommets, and nuts from getting away from you and dropping into the fairing. It's as close to having magnets in your fingers as you can get without illegal surgical implants!

Clamp lever nuts:
Put a small amount on one nut flat, then put in your socket. Lift it up...it won't fall out, and yet it will easily separate from your socket when installed. Install clamp nuts, tighten the lower clamp bar bolt, reposition the wind deflector. Check the clamp levers for proper operation. BUT DO NOT RAISE THE WINDSHIELD. You will want to leave everything where it is for a couple of days to let all of the adhesives cure.

Reinstall the cowl, being sure to get the nose grommets started first, followed by the rear horizontal grommets. Be sure the rear mounting ears (remember the bolts, washers, and grommets you removed?) are in position.

NEXT:

CONTACT CEMENT TIME!!! Put a dab of contact cement on both sides of one rubber grommet. The 'stepped' side faces inward on the post. The contact cement on the outside surface should be just enough to stick to your finger without falling off. Install the grommet over it's mounting post, making sure the step sits down in the mounting ear. The cement will hold it in place.

Do the same with the flat washer. The best you will be able to do is centralize it on the grommet.

Next---put a dab on your thumb and forefinger, then rub your fingers together until just tacky. Pick up the bolt by the head, and maneuver it down between the mirror and cowl so the threads go through the washer into the post. Start the threads using your fingers, and finish with your 10mm wrench. Repeat on the opposite side.

Resecure the mirror boots to the fairing.

I hope this helps. Thanks for reading.

Rob(in Hell)
 

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Well done Rob. Windshields getting stuck in the UP position is a common issue with the GL1800. I hope yours stays fixed!
 
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