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Discussion Starter #1
Hi to everyone I have a 2003 1800A GL that won't start Has no FI light on bulb test Turns over fine Fuses are all good FI relay engages But no fuel pump relay engaement Fuel pump is good and so is relay. Power and grnds to ECU good I have replaced ECU but still no start Need help with this one please.
 

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The pump only runs for a couple seconds when you turn the switch on then when cranking or running. Have you checked for power at 2 points on the fuel pump relay, key on, black/yellow wire? If good there the relay is grounded by the ECM, black/brown wire, try grounding it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes did that pump runs but still won't start good psi 55 . ECM is not grounding relay also just test wire to ECM is good not grounded or shorted to voltage
 

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You say no F1 light when you turn it on? Do the other lights, tail lights and gauges work? I suspect the crank or cam position sensor might be the problem but you need that light working to get a code.
 

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It sounds like you have done lots of work but it might still be worth asking if you are absolutely sure the powers and grounds are good at the ECM? Kind of sounds like the ECM is not coming to life?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes no FI light and all other lights work fine I retested all power and grnds at ECM again after I replaced it I have a service manual for 2003. It shows me B21 BLK/YEL wire from FI relay and A12 BLK/YEL wire from FI relay as both being the power wires. A8 GRN and A9 GRN A20 GRN as the grounds all good. Tested Fuel injectors resestance is 11.7 to 11.5 good. Iam thinking something is keeping the ECM from coming alive. I will try to test all components on ECM circuit today for shorts to ground or voltage. Thanks very much for the help so far.
 

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I feel your pain. I was putting a Holley fuel injection system on a truck one time and ran in to a crazy deal like you are facing. To make a very long story short, it turned out when they crimped a wire end on, at the factory, there was too much insulation on the wire. Instead of crimping to the wire most of the crimp was to the insulation. It would run on occasion then not. Drove everyone crazy.
Might check for spark just for grins and chuckles. Just another hint maybe????
 

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Dumb question. Are you cranking the starter with the bike in neutral? Not with the clutch in? Is the bike on the centerstand and sidestand up? or down?

(Think it is a dumb question because it would still do the light check either way)

EDIT: Are you checking voltage with a meter. Not a test light? Also are you testing with a load on the wire. You can easily get 12 volts with no load, only to have voltage drop to zero when you plug it in/ put load on the wire. That is if you have a bad connection. Make sure you have 12 volts and the ability to carry a load and still have good voltage. Are you backprobing the terminal while still in the circuit and under load? Not unplugging to check?
 

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and one more dumb question:

is the FI light bulb good?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes to the light working Bulb test is good have done voltage tests and test light check have even tried bulb test light and electronic test light both same result The wire tests for power at ECU are done unplugged no load I am not sure you can do those with them plugged in. I have never done tests on any ECU or ECM wires with them pluged in to the ECU as far as the components that the ECU control yes those I have done with a load. The bike is on center stand. in the service manual it says for code test put side stand down and crank engine for 10 seconds i will try that now as far as cranking goes it is nuetral no clutch
 

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So, what did you do to get the F1 light working or was it working already? First post says it didn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The FI light works when you ground the A13 WHT/BLU wire at ECU connector but does not work when ECU connected and key turned on
 

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Just tested side stand I cranked engine with it down for 10 seconds as manual states still no FI light so unable to retrieve codes. Also checked about in gear and out clutch in or out cranks fine either way but no FI light and still no start
 

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You can backprobe for power and ground with any high impedance VOM. Should be at least 10 meg. That way you can see if it has 12 volts under load. When you check the grounds they must read zero volts. Any voltage on a ground is a poor ground.
 

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I'm just wondering if there might be high resistance in the FI relay point set. When all is connected there is a voltage drop across the poor connection and the voltage drop is enough that the ECM does no turn on? I might be wrong but I think that would account for everything. Unplugged there is no load and you get 12 volts I would be tempted to jump the positive of the battery directly to the BL/YEL at a convenient place but I am not positive that would be safe. Only pretty sure. If I screw up my bike that is one thing, but not others. Maybe Dave has a suggestion. There is a lot of draw on the BL/YEL wire. Including both o2 sensor heaters. Could cause a relay issue fairly easily over time. When you unplug the ECM all that load goes away.
 

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I'm just wondering if there might be high resistance in the FI relay pint set. When all is connected there is a voltage drop across the poor connection and the voltage drop is enough that the ECM does no turn on? I might be wrong but I think that would account for everything. Unplugged there is no load and you get 12 volts I would be tempted to jump the positive of the battery directly to the BL/YEL at a convenient place but I am not positive that would be safe. Only pretty sure. If I screw up my bike that is one thing, but not others. Maybe Dave has a suggestion. There is a lot of draw on the BL/YEL wire. Including both o2 sensor heaters. Could cause a relay issue fairly easily over time. When you unplug the ECM all that load goes away.
Good theory & I agree. You can back probe at the relay to prove that, easier than at the ECM but doesn't eliminate any potential problem between there and the ECM.
 

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How old is your battery, a 1500 will crank for ever and not start with a weak battery.. I'm told that's not the case with a 1800, but I haven't tested that theory .....
 

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How old is your battery, a 1500 will crank for ever and not start with a weak battery.. I'm told that's not the case with a 1800, but I haven't tested that theory .....

yup, a 1500 won't start worth a damn if the battery is below 12.5 volts at rest, and has to hold 11 volts when the starter is rolling.

the 1800s will start at 11 volts cranking, but not below that
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks to Redwing and Dave for all the help so far. The voltage test at both ECU power terminals unplugged were Battery voltage and plugged in were .89 Then I tested all the components same, battery voltage with ECU unplugged and .89 volts with ECU plugged in. Tried a new ground for each of the ECU grounds no difference. Tried to find the splice but was unable to so far. Tested voltage at FI relay and its supply and output voltage does not change. I found a splice/connector about 10-12 inchs from relay box at rear tested the BLK/YEL wires in it, has 4 voltage stays Battery voltage ECU in and out. Then I supplied a separate battery voltage wire to the ECU power when it was plugged in and the FI light comes on and fuel pump relay as well for the 2 second prime. Added 2 wires from the FI relay to supply the ECU with battery voltage and drove the bike 90 miles just returned all is well. But can anyone explain were the voltage is going and maybe point me to were the slice is in that circuit. I suspect it has to be at the front in the main harness but not sure.
 
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