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Discussion Starter #1
A week ago the weather had finally turned so its time to get her around. Been on a maintainer all winter.
I unplug the maintainer, and it turns over very slow but does start. Warmed up a couple of minutes pulled ahead seems ok, tried to use the reverse nothing light goes out. Tried twice no luck. Shut the bike off just to see if I could hear it trying. Yes, it does try but the light just goes out.
Went to restart and no go nothing can hear the relays but no fuel pump. Charged the battery just to make sure still nothing.
Have the service manual went through what they say, fuses, pulled the saddle bag to make sure I was getting voltage in and out of the 2 relays, battery says fully charged. When I test the B solenoid for voltage out it seems ok but it is just a measure of 11 volts.
I did jump the B solenoid with the charger on jump start fuel pump runs then and it will try and start.
I didn't leave it on like that just testing.
No voltage on the two RVS fuses 5 amp in the fuse block, can't say its related?
Any help is more than appreciated.
 

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I would bet on the battery being bad. Wouldn't be the first one to test good and be shot, it will definitely keep reverse from working.The reverse fuses, 1&2 do not have power until the starter system is engaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did all the testing from the book and everything checks out. I did check voltage drop to B solenoid shows fine. Figuring out how the reverse tie into this is kinda throws thing for a loop.
For a quick test, I tried the reverse button again you can feel the relays switch and hear the front motor engage or power up. Pushing the button nothing happens and now the R light stays on initially it would go out whenever I tried it. The mechanism looks okay but tomorrow I'll try to see if it is the right position all this started when I tried to use it.
I did notice when the start button is pushed the 2 relays pull in then I have to push further on the button to show voltage on the outlet of the B solenoid.
Just guessing here I wonder if when I tried to use the reverse that may be burnt up and not allowing the start circuit to run.
I may just break down and purchase a new batter
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That is what I will probably do but I did find testing all the circuits kinda fun. Taking off the left saddle wasn't that bad. My wife says I'm to an*l about things but I do enjoy learning on how things work.
Don't put a button in front of me I'll push it. Just to see 0:)
 

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...I did jump the B solenoid with the charger on jump start fuel pump runs then and it will try and start...

As I read that a 2nd time, I wonder if your Alternator is bad? (If so, then that would explain the dead battery, and also why the bike kinda starts but won't sustain running)


Regardless, if you jump start via a Car Battery and it runs steady... then the culprit is probably either the bike battery or alternator.




FYI, Here's a similar discussion that mentions other things to check:
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24244
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I went out and bought a new battery only one local was at Wally World. Put the acid in and waiting for a full charge using a tender since it only puts out 1.25 amps and will hold it there until I get time.
Alex, I read the article but sadly no outcome was mentioned. If the new battery doesn't work I will pull the front off to make sure the reverse actuator has returned to neutral.
From the side, the cables look to be in the correct position.
I'll keep updating as I proceed.
Thanks to all.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Put in the new battery still just clicks. So I pulled the center upper cowl to make sure reverse motor is in the correct position. Double checking the A/B solenoids I notice power to A then to B but if I push the button too far B shuts looses power.
Could it be a bad or gummed up switch?
 

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Wouldn't be the first time someone has replaced good parts because the starter button was dirty. Try shooting some WD-40 around the button while pushing it several thousand times.

Maybe 15 to 20 times would be enough. :baffling:

If that works it would be best to go in and clean the switch and re-lube it.
.
 

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...I did jump the B solenoid with the charger on jump start fuel pump runs then and it will try and start...

You DID have the Ignition switch turned On, when you jumped B-solenoid, right? (otherwise the engine just turns over)
 

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Tried Manually Turning the Reverse Actuator (via 22mm wrench), to verify that it's in the Neutral Position?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes, I did the WD no change went ahead and removed the switch cleaned and lube just dirty no junk. I did put a 22 mm on the nut won't move and it looks to be in the neutral position.
Still just clicks, and looses power when you push the start button all the way.
Pulled the A/B solenoids and ran the books test for each power to the small leads Y/Gr + Br/Rd - it clicks then check for continuity both test fine.
Not sure what direction to go tomorrow, book kinda heads toward checking reverse relays not sure about the reasoning for that unless it has something to with the reverse relay. I had tried to use it while running when all this started.
Again thanks. I'm open to just about anything.
Forgot yes I had the key on when I jumped the B terminal. It did turn over but I didn't want to force it.
 

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Put in the new battery still just clicks. So I pulled the center upper cowl to make sure reverse motor is in the correct position. Double checking the A/B solenoids I notice power to A then to B but if I push the button too far B shuts looses power.
Could it be a bad or gummed up switch?
Not sure of your experience so don't be offended. Just because a relay (solenoid) clicks does not mean it is good. Just like flipping a light switch does not guarantee the light will come on. A poor connection internal the solenoid will cause a no starter symptom.
When you mention solenoid "B" loses power are you checking the small wires or the cable, big stud that goes to the starter. If you hold the start button all 4 studs (2 on sol "A" and 2 on sol "B") must have power to get the starter to spin.

Here is a basic theory. Power goes from the start button to solenoid "A." It should click and both studs should have power. The power from a stud on "A" goes to solenoid "B" and makes it click and then you will have power on both studs of "B." All 4 studs with power. It happens in microsecond of pushing the start button. When you saay that pushing harder on the start button causes "B" to lose power that makes me think the start switch is bad. The start switch is either on or off. Should make no difference how hard you push it.

Tomorrow I would make sure both solenoids click when you push the start button. They both happen simultaneously so you might have to listen with a screwdriver or stethoscope. They both have to click. If all is well there then check to be sure that all 4 studs have at least 10 volts with a voltmeter. If you do this test something is not going to pass. Let us know which did not pass and we can go to the next step.
FYI the reverse relay supplies a ground for relay "A." If reverse relay fails relay (solenoid) "A" has no ground and no start will happen. The start referse can be fairly complicated at first. If you do the tests I suggested tomorrow and report back I'm sure the guys can walk you through the next step. You need power on all 4 studs of the solenoids with the bike configured to start. I am all but certain you will not have power on all 4. If you report back how many and which solenoid that will give a really good clue where the issue is.
 

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Yes, I did the WD no change went ahead and removed the switch cleaned and lube just dirty no junk. I did put a 22 mm on the nut won't move and it looks to be in the neutral position.
Still just clicks, and looses power when you push the start button all the way.
Pulled the A/B solenoids and ran the books test for each power to the small leads Y/Gr + Br/Rd - it clicks then check for continuity both test fine.
Not sure what direction to go tomorrow, book kinda heads toward checking reverse relays not sure about the reasoning for that unless it has something to with the reverse relay. I had tried to use it while running when all this started.
Again thanks. I'm open to just about anything.
Forgot yes I had the key on when I jumped the B terminal. It did turn over but I didn't want to force it.
Even though the manual says this test is valid it is not. The internal connection can be good enough to test fine with an ohm meter but fail when the extreme power required to spin the starter is appled. A better test is in the post above. Will the solenoids pass the heavy loads and still hold 10 volts or better. The manual can help but sometimes it adds confusion.
 

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Put in the new battery still just clicks. So I pulled the center upper cowl to make sure reverse motor is in the correct position. ?
If the neutral light is on the reverse motor IS in the correct position.
 
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