Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

41 - 48 of 48 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
574 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
Yes, I should have posted earlier about the voltage at the cable. I will definitely add a second ground.
I did reinstall the starter, what a pain even after lubing the o-ring, didn't use the bolts once I had it started I installed 1 bolt on top to hold it square a small pry bar and a rubber mallet lightly tapping it slid in.
Hooked it up and it turns over fine now. Like Redwing mentioned I cleaned the ground bolt under the tank, and will add a second.
Dave thanks for the advice about the hose clamps while working on the starter kept finding more clamps I didn't see the first time around.
Tomorrow I will put everything back that I need to start it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
574 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Just a final update everything is working fine. Really it never started this quick before. All in all, it wasn't as bad of a job as I expected.
Added a second ground using the topmost starter bolt down to the main ground. Reinstalling the tank was fun, I had to pull the bolts that hold the brace in place due to the rubber mushroom won't let the tank in.
I did get an AMP reading from the power cable of the starter, it only read 25 amps while turning if over. I wish now I would have slowed down a bit and looked for continuity from the ground side, it would've told me from the get-go the loss of the ground.
A huge thanks go out to those that kept me going. (Redwing, Dave, Dennis, AG) again Thank You0:)
My wife actually came out, just to make sure it was running she to told me to slow down and take a breath.
After getting an inch of snow last night can't wait for the first ride of the spring.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,627 Posts
Just a final update everything is working fine. Really it never started this quick before. All in all, it wasn't as bad of a job as I expected.
Added a second ground using the topmost starter bolt down to the main ground. Reinstalling the tank was fun, I had to pull the bolts that hold the brace in place due to the rubber mushroom won't let the tank in.
I did get an AMP reading from the power cable of the starter, it only read 25 amps while turning if over. I wish now I would have slowed down a bit and looked for continuity from the ground side, it would've told me from the get-go the loss of the ground.
A huge thanks go out to those that kept me going. (Redwing, Dave, Dennis, AG) again Thank You0:)
My wife actually came out, just to make sure it was running she to told me to slow down and take a breath.
After getting an inch of snow last night can't wait for the first ride of the spring.
Brian,
It can be confusing when you use a meter for certain tests. If you set your meter to ohms and put one probe on the stater and one on the frame I would bet you would get a reading near zero. Thhe reason is because the ground was good enough that the little bit of power that comes from the meter can find a pretty easy way to get from the starter to the frame. That would not be the case if you tried to really push a lot of current through the same connections. The little bit of conductivity is like a super highway for the voltage from the meter. It can just fly right through and read fine. When you push the start button and all that power comes barreling toward that bad connection it is like a super highway with a 100 car accident. Nothing gets through. Make sense?
So, a better test would be to put the red probe of your voltmeter (set on DC Volts) on the bare steel of the starter and the black probe on the bare metal of the frame. Now when you push the sterter button and the voltage can not get through the 100 car accident it could go up the meter and you would see 12 volts instead of zero as you would expect. That is a voltage drop test. It measures the difference in voltage between the starter housing and frame. Hope some day it helps. Just remember when testing a circuit where an amp or so usually goes through an ohm meter is probably OK. When you first hit the start button there is probably 200 amps plus trying to get through that crappy connection. Understand why it did not spin? If you are testing a circuit with high amps normally, a voltage drop test is what you need. That is the same issue the manual failed on when they asked yo to check continuity across the solenoids "A" and "B."
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,413 Posts
That is the same issue the manual failed on when they asked yo to check continuity across the solenoids "A" and "B."
Honda is big on continuity tests but there a lot of circumstances where it is inadequate. They also frown on using a test light but they are a very useful tool.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
57,520 Posts
I put more faith in a simple bulb tester, than I do an ohmmeter or voltmeter.


corrosion will conduct enough for meters to "show good", when in fact, it is a bad high resistance connection that fails under heavy loads.


I like to use a voltmeter ACROSS the junctions in a circuit to see IF there is any voltage drop across that junction. if there is, it is bad.


e.g., for the starter motor.... measuring the voltage drop from the battery + terminal to the starter's 12V post will give the total voltage drop across the entire circuit, including all of the relays... that is a fast go, no go, way to test starter problems.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
574 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
Amen to all the above, one test I forgot was to use a test light and hook up to battery positive and touch your light to a known ground.
Again thanks to all
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,413 Posts
Amen to all the above, one test I forgot was to use a test light and hook up to battery positive and touch your light to a known ground.
Again thanks to all
That wouldn't have done much good. If you had connected a test light to the starter housing and to the battery ground and pushed the start button it would have lit, which would tell you it wasn't grounded.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
574 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
An update to the starter

After getting it to start we had more rain so it was another 2 weeks of not getting it out. Finally 2 weeks ago I was going to get it out. I'm not going to store it there again.
Wouldn't start again same symptoms voltage out of solenoid B rather than guessing and testing I pulled the starter again.
Took it out and it would not turn with a jumper pack. So I pulled it all apart down to the brush holder, I didn't do that the first time. I hope I explain this correctly the +12 brushes were fine the -12 brushes were corroded in the holders. You could see on the commutator where it was arching from it to the brushes. The negative brushes were cracked and burnt, and commutator had melted together in some places. So I replaced the starter and now all is fine. I've never seen a starter do that before.
So I blame me for not pulling it apart the first time.
Now you touch the start button and fires right up.
Again thanks redwing a big thank you for the voltage drop test. I took photos of it but it didn't show it well enough to see.
Again thanks
 
41 - 48 of 48 Posts
Top