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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My first post, hope I am doing it right. This happened in November, I managed to get bike back into trailer and towed it home. In canada. Here is what happened.
I was riding my wing in New Orleans with wife on back when just as I was turning a corner the engine quit. The lights are all on, it is just like when you turn the key on. Except, the FI light stays on. I had enough speed to pull to the side and there we sat. I can crank the engine but there is no spark. after about 15 minutes I tuned on the ignition again, and after a second or two the FI light went off. I hit the starter button and it fired right up. It continued to run so we took off for our trailer, about 13 miles away. We got to within 3 miles, the unit was running fine, so we pulled into a drug store to pickup some medicine. I shut the bike off. I came back to the bike. Turned the key. All the lights came on now, the FI light would not go out, and the bike refused to start. That is how it stayed.
I am at home now, bike in garage.
I had the battery checked, it showed low. Charged it up, and tried to start. Nothing doing. I have the seat off and can hear the relays clicking. I swapped out the FI relays with the horn relay and nothing changes. Today I will put in a new battery, but seems to me the fuel pump is not working. I started to remove the outlet hose from the pump and immediately smelled gasoline and see some wetness on fitting, so am not sure if there's pressure there and don't to have gas spraying in garage.
I have tried to get the FI light to blink codes, but it just stays on.
Any help available?
 

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I would pull the plugs and check to see if you have spark when cranking. Use a jumper wire from the plug threads to the frame to ensure good contact. Then at least you have narrowed it down. Then we can help you fault find once we know if it is electrial or gas related.
 

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You didn't happen to hit the reverse switch. I did that once by accident and it shuts off everything.........
 

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I am thinking bank angle sensor. Have you checked for power on the bl/y wire coming out of the FI/IGN relay?
 

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If the reverse switch is pushed it will not crank over.

I doubt the BAS, never heard of one on going bad on a 1800.

Let's do this logicially, first is to narrow it down by checking spark to see if it is loss of spark or gas. Then we can start looking at specifics once it is narrowed down.
 

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Welcome:waving:HC Derksen
I am with DaveO430. First thing I thought of when reading was the bank angle sensor

 

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Not sure about an 1800 but my 1500 would crank over but wouldn't start when the battery was low or bad.. Battery my be bad and not taking a charge...............
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
GL1800 not starting

Thanks for the come backs. Will check for spark. As far as kill switch and reverse switches they were all checked. Just had a thought though. The last month I was riding, the gauges (the whole instrument panel) would die while riding or not come on when I turned the ignition on. The engine ran fine, and after a short time (sometimes as much as 10 minutes) they would come back on and everything would be fine. This was intermittent and random. The last day when it quit running there was no gauge problem.
Earlier this summer, I had the instrument shroud off to clean the bugs from the inside of the speaker grills and to paint them. There was over a month of riding between that and the gauge problem.
Just wondering now if they are related.
 

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Maybe this is of some help .Keep the rubber side down!

SempaiView Public ProfileSend a private message to SempaiFind More Posts by SempaiAdd Sempai to Your Contacts
03-06-2013, 12:52 AM #4 (permalink) wingfart
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Renfrew, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 52



Here is the procedure for finding out what the FI problem is:


If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code. Also known as Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL)

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms
.Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector




16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector



17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch

...................

Engine cranks but won’t start
• No fuel in tank, • No fuel to injector, – Clogged fuel filter, – Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, – Pinched or clogged fuel tank breather tube, – Faulty fuel pump, – Faulty fuel pump circuits, • Intake air leak, • Contaminated / deteriorated fuel, • Faulty fuel injector, • Idle air control valve stuck closed, • No spark at plug Faulty ignition system

Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Restricted fuel feed hose, • Contaminated/deteriorated fuel, • Intake air leak, • Faulty idle air control valve, • Restricted fuel tank breather tube, • Misadjusted idle adjusting screw, • Faulty ignition system

Afterburn when engine braking is used
• Faulty pulse secondary air injection (PAIR) system, – Faulty PAIR control solenoid valve, – Faulty PAIR check valve, – Clogged hose of the PAIR system, • Faulty ignition system

Backfiring or misfiring during acceleration
• Faulty ignition system

Poor performance drive-ability and poor fuel economy
• Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, • Faulty pressure regulator, • Faulty ignition system
__________________
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Previous bikes: Honda 150 Dream, Royal Enfield Bullet,Norton Atlas,Suzuki 750 Waterbuffalo, 79 gl1000,07 gl1800

 

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Willy
Great information
 

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Cross the fuel filter off your list. The GL1800 comes without one, only an intake screen on the intank fuel pump.
 

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I had a similar problem on my 2008 1800 and found a broken wire on the ignition pulse generator. I was fortunate enough to shut mine off in the garage, the next day it would spin but not fire.
 

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i had simular symptoms on my 1200 ltd, stator is bad so not charging battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got my GL1800 running

Well by the grace of God we got this unit running. Thanks for the help but everyone was wrong on the problem, including me. The problem was a wire in the FI/IGN circuit. It wore through where it was close to the frame, under the gas tank. It caused the relay to short and seeing as it is in the ignition circuit it killed everything connected, including the ECM, BAS, Fuel pump. All the things that I checked before I finally gave up and took the bike to a small engine mechanic here in town. It took him close to 10 hours but he finally found the problem and fixed it.
Then when I got the unit home, he alternator wasn't working. So had to learn how to take it out and the local automotive electrical shop found that one of the brushes stuck and lost contact. So seeing as the bike has 125000+ miles the technician did the right thing, cleaned it thoroughly, replaced the bearings, checked it out and returned in good shape. Now I have 14.2 volts and everything seems good. Have learned a lot about taking the bike apart.
I had to download a service manual. There a two out there, the one that covers 01 to 10 models is not good for my bike. There is a better one that covers 06 to 10 models and it is more comprehensive.
You can get both manuals at Tradebit.com for $14.99 each.
Also taking out the alternator does NOT require removal of the gas tank. I took it out the side and it takes about a hour each way. But a good mechanic with a long extension to get at the back bolt could likely do it faster. I did take out the battery and battery box and went through there to get at the back bolt. Works well.
Thanks again to all the guys trying to help.
 

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Thanks for reporting back on the problem. :claps:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Substitute relays

I forgot to mention that when I wanted to replace the shorted relay, I couldn't find one to save my life. So after going to my local Honda dealer who couldn't tell me which relay exactly I needed, I went back to the auto electric company that repaired the alternator. They found the relay on their shelf. It is an Omron relay G8HL-H71 12volt. And it cost a fraction of the Honda part. Yeaaa!:waving:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Willy
Great information
Sorry I did not reply sooner. First of all thanks for the info. Second, I was told that on a 1500, if it doesn't start in the first few seconds, don't keep cranking. The battery voltage will drop and there is not enough left to fire the plugs. This info came from a dealer I trust. I did find that to be true. If I put the choke on full (when cold) and then cranked, it would start in the first couple of seconds. If I didn't work the choke rightly (is that a word) I would have a problem. Even so I seldom had a problem with the 1500. The 1800 has no such problems. Of course the wiring has to be good. Now that we have found the problem, all is good again. Great to be riding.:)
 
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