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Hello all, I have 6500 miles on my 06 Goldwing and the reverse has always kicked out after about 4 feet of travel. I bought it in another state and it seems no-one has ever seen the problem. I can reset the switch and reverse for another 4 feet, on and on and on. I hope some of you have heard of a simular problem and knows the fix. I'm beginning to believe the tires have a cut out switch.
 

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What is happening is on some bikes normal. When put into reverse and if the reverse button is held for more than 3 seconds heat builds up and the system shuts down to avoid damage to the starter motor. Then you have to reset the button and try again.

Under the seat also is a reverse speed limit relay, if that is a bit sensitive that can cause this also. If the reverse speed limiter is activating(the relay) you again have to reset the switch and try again.

This relay is located under the seat at the relay box and it is the one third row down and fourth one over.

Kit
 

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I'm wondering if there is some kind of adjustment on the speed limiter. It seems to travel the same distance every time, like clock work. It's like it is a timed thing, I even have the time worked out and release the switch before it cuts out, wierd deal, here we go to the shop. I really hate leaving it at the shop for repairs.
 

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My most honest answer to that is I do not know, but I will find out. May take me a day or two, but this is now on my list of questions to ask people who do know and can fully explain it to me.

Kit

Well it is raining here this morning and I have been procrastinating going to work till around noon. I have studied the circuits and what I find is:

There is really no separate reverse speed limiter. This is built into the reverse/cruise control module. Ahead of this in the circuit under the left saddlebag(have no idea why they stuck it there) is a reverse resistor. The resistor performs the function of shutting the starter motor off if ran for the designed 3 seconds or more and also provides the signal through it to the relay under the seat to send a signal to the reverse control module and then to the starter motor. I would therefore suspect that the reverse resistor is defective and not providing the circuit with power, provided you are not holding the reverse button (starter button) in longer than 3 seconds as it is the design of the system to shut down and cause you to reset if held longer than 3 seconds.

What I do on my bike is only hold the button down for a couple seconds, let off , look behind me again and back up some more, let off and so on. This fools the system and allows you to back for an extended distance so long as you do not try to do it all in one go.

Kit
 

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This is interesting, because in my owners manual ('06) it says not to run in reverse for more than 1 minute.

I don't know how long it takes me to reverse out of the garage and around to where I can go forward, but I think about 20 secs, and I do this regularly.

I have never had it cut out, I did have a problem with it refusing to engage, but it went away without even a goodbye, simply cured itself.
 

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Take a look at he electrical service manual, page ETM 7-23. Evidently it does not occur under regular conditions (such is the danger of internet troubleshooting) But if the bike is in sand, or backing up a slope, or running down a slope and gets a bit of speed up, it seems to be a normal expectation and has no real recourse.

I know mine does it in my sand pile drive by the garage , and will once in a great while do it backing up a steep slope, normally it works fine.

Kit
 

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I can certainly see it cutting out if it gets too hot, and sand will do it for sure. I am usually on well packed gravel that is fairly flat.
 

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It may be as simple as checking the reverse cable adjustment on the RH side (pair of cables) near the covered ground point.
 

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ALSO check if you brakes are binding when the bike is moving backward .. Push the bike backward and if it moves freely then it is ok ,if not you may have a brake binding issue ..
 

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I finally got to look at ETM 7-23, my DVD was on loan, I guess it only runs 3 seconds if overloaded. It certainly runs a lot longer if not overloaded.

It doesn't take a very steep slope for it to be overloaded, or sand, mud and the like.
 

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Thanks everyone, you have been a big help. I now have a location and some ideas to start. I hope the resistor is the culprit. I really would like to finally be able to back out in a continuous motion, I feel I'm riding a Harley when I have to use my feet Ha.

Thanks, I'll let you know, when I find it, You won't have to read about it, you will hear me.
 

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I'm looking forward to hearing how this turns out. I have an 02 and mine will go into reverse, all moving parts go to the correct position, "R" light comes on, push the start/reverse switch it moves about 2" and trips out. ( even on the center stand ) I've replaced all 4reverse relays, the reverse regulator assembly, the reverse resistor, the speed limiter relay, switched out the cruise/reverse control module.. (with one from a working bike ) The kicker!! One time the starter would not shutoff after starting the engine. Main switch off kill switch off..... so I replacer both the starter relays.. I'm at a loss I'll be glad to hear how this turns out.... Thanks for sharing..
Thanks again
Al

I had to disconnect the battery to stop starter running. when re-connecting the neg. cable it did not restart the starter and worked after that.. replaced the start relays anyway

Well I was hopping for a point in the right direction to fix this rewind problem. Guess I'll stick it back together and ride.. maybe I'll drain the Mobile 1 & fill it with the OEM oil I was told that was the problem (ha ha) I didn't see the humor.. enjoy the riding summer weather.
disappointed
Al
 

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You do realize this is a almost 7 year old thread. I and probably others don't pay any attention to it when I see someone has brought up an old thread like this. Just by chance I opened this one.
While I am here anyway, have your battery tested, I just found yesterday reverse won't work if the battery is low.
 

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Sorry, and thanks. New bat last year 12.7volts sitting , 14.6 @ idle. Thanks again...... l've always been the go to guy, when there was a dead dog it was my job to breath new life in to. I am more disappointed in myself then anything. I've had this kicking my butt for 2 years. Even though the string of parts I replaced tested good I had hoped I was wrong and one them would do the trick.(I knew better) I'm more of a maintenance/machinist then an electrician. but from what I can see/understand the only thing I have left is the adjustment of OR replacement of the reverse shift actuator/reverse position switch. I really don't want to pull the gas tank.. Honda dealer says it $900 to $1500 to fix it. I'm thinking the switch is breaking when the starter fires. Don't know if jumping it out will smoke some thing else. I'm too old & broke down to push this monster. I just hate not being able to solve me own problems and was hoping for a fixit pill that I hadn't seen. Sorry for the way I came across. just at the end of my wits, it's have it fixed, fixit or sell it . and the wife says I can't afford a new one.
look I am sorry and again and thanks
Al
 

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Sorry, and thanks. New bat last year 12.7volts sitting , 14.6 @ idle.
Al
Meaningless, I put a new battery in mine last November. A few days ago it cranked a little slow and reverse wouldn't work. Battery showed 12.9v static, 14.4 at idle but 7.6 cranking.
 

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I'll do a load check. I have the automotive test equipment for that test for a car battery. see no reason for it not to work on a bike. Going to go whisper dirty words in her ear again to day, new spark plugs & replace final drive oil. Going to add an oil cooler to the final drive as well. Had to walk away from the rewind problem hoping a fresh look will help.
great day for a ride here . if it is there get out and enjoy it .
thanks
Al
 

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I was reviewing some of the replies on this reverse problem, (yes I've put it together for now) and I noticed that there was a comment that when the starter was in an overload for "X" seconds it would trip out.. What tells the controller that there is an overload. If a low or week cell in the battery will cause the reverse to not work, is this the same info stream ?? And could it be reading a weak/bad starter motor??
Thanks again
Al
 

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I back into the garage every time. I have never had an issue. This is uphill for about 20 to 30 ft. Usually takes about 45 seconds
 

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I have never had my '02 1800 "trip out" and I have made some long uphill backouts from my garage, and from street curbs when I forgot to "back in" to the curb.

I always use my feet to help it when going uphill, dunno if that makes a difference.

I always hold the engine at about 3,000 RPM, again, dunno if that makes a difference, but it sure keeps the voltage up on the battery at near 14 volts.

if the battery is low, say around 12 volts, the starter motor will pull more current, and that might trip a breaker??

Electric motors like to have high volts, low current to do the work.
 

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I have never had my '02 1800 "trip out" and I have made some long uphill backouts from my garage, and from street curbs when I forgot to "back in" to the curb.

I always use my feet to help it when going uphill, dunno if that makes a difference.

I always hold the engine at about 3,000 RPM, again, dunno if that makes a difference, but it sure keeps the voltage up on the battery at near 14 volts.

if the battery is low, say around 12 volts, the starter motor will pull more current, and that might trip a breaker??

Electric motors like to have high volts, low current to do the work.
I do the same thing with the RPMs. I actually started doing it because the lights would dim so much while going backwards that I figured the Alternator needed to put out some more juice to help it. It still did the job without upping the RPMs, but everything seemed happier with the higher RPMs. It is very true that DC motors are very finnicky with voltages.
 
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