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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first ever problem with my wing and it shocked me! I had not cranked the bike in two weeks. I did not expect any issues. I turned the key on, hit the starter switch and the motor spun and spun. I turned it off, put a bit more gas in the tank. I already had a 1/4 tank. Turned the key to on, hit the starter and the motor spun again. I spun the motor for 3-4 minutes. No fire. I had to be someplace so I took my Jeep, on the way home I bought some starter fluid. I just wanted to spray a bit down the intake to see if it was even firing. It did not fire. I checked the fuses also which were fine. I won't be able to worry with it for several weeks as I am having vertebrae fused in my neck today.

Your thoughts and suggestions will be appreciated.
 

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Do you hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you turn it on?
 

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Not meaning to sound condescending but your description sounds like you just held down the starter button for 3-4 minutes. I hope this isn't the case. You shouldn't crank it continuously for more than a few seconds. If a fuel injected vehicle doesn't start immediately, there's a problem needing to be fixed and continuing to crank the motor will only lead to more problems.

I'm guessing Dave0430 is correct about the fuel pump not priming. Also, will an 1800 turn over with the kill switch in the off position?
 

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I'm guessing Dave0430 is correct about the fuel pump not priming. Also, will an 1800 turn over with the kill switch in the off position?
No it won't.
I was attempting to diagnose the problem with that question, the answer might be a good clue, or at least a starting point. I guess it's not a big enough problem for him to come back with an answer. Not unusual for newbys.
 

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I see you have a 2010 have you replaced your battery.. If the battery is a bit weak it'll crank but won't start
 

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Several things come to mind.
Fuel pump not working (have seen several go out)
Side stand switch(long shot on this)
You have never seen a fuel pump in an 1800 go out, I promise.
The side stand switch would only keep it from cranking if it was in gear.
 

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You have never seen a fuel pump in an 1800 go out, I promise.
The side stand switch would only keep it from cranking if it was in gear.
We have replaced 2 fuel pumps on the 1800. One only had 15 psi(but PUMP itself would run but not start). The other would cut out when hot(not start or surge then cut off).

I said the side stand switch was a long shot.


We have seen mice chew wires on bikes and cause all types of problems.
 

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We have replaced 2 fuel pumps on the 1800. One only had 15 psi(but PUMP itself would run but not start). The other would cut out when hot(not start or surge then cut off).

I said the side stand switch was a long shot.


We have seen mice chew wires on bikes and cause all types of problems.
That makes the first 1800 fuel pumps I have ever heard of, they are just like the ones in Honda cars and they never go bad either.
The mice chewing wires was one of my first thoughts and 1 of the reasons I asked if the pump runs when he turns it on, plus the fact it sat for 2 weeks.
 

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That makes the first 1800 fuel pumps I have ever heard of, they are just like the ones in Honda cars and they never go bad either.
The mice chewing wires was one of my first thoughts and 1 of the reasons I asked if the pump runs when he turns it on, plus the fact it sat for 2 weeks.
We had another that was questionable. We changed the fuel out of it. He has been driving it since.
We don't replace many things without KNOWING. But some things is still try and see.
Just to add. We have had 2 injectors bad(one on 2 different bikes) bad too. LUCKILY they were the ones on the ends on left side.
Anything that takes electricity to run or operate it, CAN AND WILL give problems. Just never know when. If they built things to run forever, they couldn't sell anything NEW AND BETTER...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think he has more important issues to deal with , than answering this thread .
You are quite correct, I do have an ache in my neck. LOL I am doing well though. I am worrying about my bike, but I can't do anything but worry. LOL I am sorry I did not respond fast enough for some. You know how us newby's are. I can't remember now if I heard the fuel pump or not. I'm so used to hearing the short whir and the bike cranking that I did not notice. No, I did not crank the bike continuously for 3-4 minutes. Anyway, if I get to feeling up to going out to the bike I will turn on and listen for pump. Thanks to everyone who read and responded to my post appropriately.
 

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Sorry I just skimmed over the part about your surgery, then forgot about it, glad you made it through.
Didn't mean to call you a newby, just meant I have seen a lot of times someone signs on, asks a question and never returns.
 

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There are many more options than just a fuel pump issue.

Granted, make sure you hear the fuel pump prime up :smile2:

So there are other options. Someone else suggested battery - make sure it is fully charged. When a battery engages a starter, the start takes a LOT of juice, so much that it can turn the crank but not have enough to spark the plugs. Since it sat two weeks, another great place to start.

The other thing to check that is relatively easy is spark plugs, make sure they are getting a spark (whatever you do - do not hold the wire or the plug with your bare hands! It is a shocking experience, trust me :wink2:)

Other options are clogged fuel injectors, clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel pump (this is rare, but I have seen it happen, but only on cars!). You said you sprayed starter fluid (btw this isn't normally a good idea in fuel injected systems, but I understand the need to see if you are getting spark) so a clogging of the fuel system probably is not the issue, it has to be something with the ignition system.

There of course are electrical troubleshooting routes too, but lets start with the easy ones.

Below is from my service manual and may also help.

lGNITION SYSTEM INSPECTION
NOTE:
" lf there is no spark present at the plugs, check all
connections for loose or poor contact before
measuring the peak voltage.
" use a commercially available digital multimeter
(impedance 10 MQ/DCV minimum).
" The display value differs depending upon the
internal impedance of the multimeter.
Connect the peak voltage adaptor to the digital
multimeter.
TOOLS:
lgnitionMate peak voltage tester MTP07-0286
(U.S.A. only) or
Peak voltage adaptor [1] 07HGJ-0020100
(not available in
U.S.A.)
with commercially available digital multimeter [2]
(impedance 10 MQ/DCV minimum)
Remove the seat (page 2-6).
Disconnect the fuel pump 5P (Gray) connector [1].
IGNITION COIL SIGNAL PEAK
VOLTAGE
NOTE:
" Check all system connections before performing this
inspection. Loose connectors can cause incorrect
readings.
" Check that the cylinder compression is normal for
each cylinder and the spark plug is installed correctly
in the cylinder head.
Remove the center inner fairing (page 2-9).
Disconnect the ignition coil 3P (Black) connector.
- No.1 & 2 coil connector: [1]
- No.3 & 4 coil connector: [2]
- No.5 & 6 coil connector: [3]
5-6
IGNITION SYSTEM
Connect the peak voltage tester or adaptor [1] probes to
the wire harness side connector [2] terminal and
ground.
CONNECTION:
No.1 & 2 ignition coil:
Yellow/white (+) -Ground (-)
No. 3 & 4 ignition coil:
Yellow/blue (+) -Ground (-)
No. 5 & 6 ignition coil:
Yellow/red (+) -Ground (-)
Shift the transmission into neutral.
Make sure the Turn the ignition switch ON.
engine stop switch
is turned to "a".
Crank the engine with the starter motor and measure
the ignition coil signal peak voltage.
PEAK VOLTAGE: 2.5 -5.0 V
NOTE:
" Although measured values are different for each
ignition coil, they are normal as long as voltage is
higher than the specified value.
If the peak voltage is lower than the standard value,
follow the checks described in the troubleshooting chart
on page 5-5.
lGNITION COIL
POWER/GROUND LINE INSPECTION
NOTE:
" lf the ignition coil signal voltage is normal but there is
no spark at the plug, perform this inspection.
Remove the center inner fairing (page 2-9).
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Disconnect the ignition coil 3P (Black) connector.
- No.1 & 2 coil connector: [1]
- No.3 & 4 coil connector: [2]
- No.5 & 6 coil connector: [3]
POWER INPUT LINE
Make sLtre the Turn the ignition switch ON.
engt'r]e stop swt.fch Measure the voltage between the Black/yellow wire
t.s fLtmed fo "o''. terminal (+) of the ignition coil 3P (Black) connector [1]
and ground (-).
There should be battery voltage.
If there is no voltage, check the following:
" Open circuit in the Black/yellow wire between the
ignition coil and relay box
" PGM-Fl/ignition relay and its circuits (page 5-11)
5-7
lGNITION SYSTEM
GROUND LINE
Check for continuity between the Green wire terminal of
the ignition coil 3P (Black) connector [1] and ground.
There should be continuity.
" lf there is no continuity, repair the open circuit in the
Green wire between the ignition coil and ground
terminal.
REPLACEMENT
Remove the front lower fairing (page 2-9).
Disconnect the 2P (Black) connector [1] from the EVAP
purge control solenoid valve [2].
Remove the EVAP purge control solenoid valve from
the stay.
Disconnect the ignition coil 3P (Black) connectors [3].
Disconnect the spark plug wires [1] from the ignition
coils [2].
Remove the bolts [3] and ignition coils from the stay.
Cor7necf the spark Install the ignition coils in the reverse order of removal.
plug wires to the
ignition coils
properly
(page 1-25).
SPARK PLUG WIRE
Remove the ignition coils (page 5-8).
Remove the wire clip [1] from the stay [2] and the No. 2
and No. 5 spark plug wires [3].
5-8
lGNITION SYSTEM
Route the sensor
wire properiy.
-GL1800: page
1-25
-GL1800B:
page 1-78
Remove the five rubber plugs, five socket bolts and
cylinder head side cover [1].
Disconnect the spark plug caps [2] from the plugs.
Remove the bolts, front inner lower cover [3], wire
clamps [4] and the spark plug wires.
Install the removed parts in the reverse order of
removal.
TORQUE:
Cylinder head side cover bolt:
10 Nim (1.0 kgf.in, 7 Ibfift)
*CKP
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks everyone. It's going to be a few weeks I think before I can mess with the bike, but I am gathering all your ideas so when I am ready to hit it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I managed to tinker with the bike this morning, not a lot but a little. I checked all the fuses, and managed to get my charger on wheels and a cord dragged to the bike. That's all I can do for now. I did listen for the whir of the fuel pump, I think I heard it. LOL
 

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If you are sure you heard the pump run that confirms the system is powering up, that is what I was trying to determine. Now you need to confirm it is getting spark at the plugs. I understand if that takes a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you are sure you heard the pump run that confirms the system is powering up, that is what I was trying to determine. Now you need to confirm it is getting spark at the plugs. I understand if that takes a while.
Checking for spark will likely take quite awhile. Yesterday, I did crack the throttle and gave a squirt of starting fluid, nothing. I think I am going to have to dig into this one. It's just kind of depressing. I go out to my wing day after day and she never gives a bit of trouble. I park it and now no start. Old faithful isn't being faithful. I also only got my battery 90% charged before the thunderstorms rolled in and it's raining now. LOL

Must be tough when both your doctor and your bike are being a pain in the neck, huh?
I hear ya man, yep, no fall garden, no driving for a few weeks, no tearing into the bike or Jeep, just mostly sitting, picking cucumbers and collecting a few eggs. Oh making dill pickles, bread and butter pickles, and since I am tired of pickles I am going to make some sweet pickle relish for the hotdogs I don't usually eat but it is good in tuna salad and the like.
 

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If when you are cranking the bike, and the voltage drops below about 11 volts on Fuel Injection and ABS equipped bikes, the ECM won't let the bike start. If the battery is the original one then I would suggest that you get it load tested. If the bike was running well before it was parked for two weeks or so, there are parasite drains on these bikes that will take a weak battery down. A battery may test good on a VOM meter, but as soon as a big load come on ( starting ) than it will fail.


I always check the simple stuff first. In the past I've had a bad positive cable between the battery and the solenoid cause a bike to not start. The cable was corroded inside the sheath and as soon as the load came on it created too much resistance and wouldn't pass enough amps to turn the starter over.
 
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