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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Everyone

I come to you with heavy heart. My new to me 1992 1500 Goldwing is grinding when going into 2 and 4th. It does not pop out of gear once in. If I wait unto the RPMS come down then it is fine, or if I shift at a low RPMS back to back.

I have done some reading and see there is a problem with the 4th gear popping out but I didn't see any yet about the grinding. I have put about 4000 miles on the bike and it had a fresh oil change with synthetic oil when I got it.

I bought the bike with 29000 miles.

I have not talked to a dealer yet.

Thanks Bruce
 

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Just going out on a limb here. You say it only has about 33,000 miles on it. Have you checked the CONDITION of your clutch fluid? Pulled the master cylinder cap off and looked?
I would start there. Change it if has sludge or is dark in color. IF it has sludge in the m/c. You may be rebuilding slave cylinder and/or m/c soon.
It sounds like the clutch is not fully disengaging.
Sometimes I miss the 1st to 2nd shift too. I haven't seen much on the 4th gear issue.
Does it have a heel-toe shifter? Have seen where people ride with their foot/toe on shifter causing premature wear on shift forks.
 

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Don't jump to conclusions!

Change oil to dino diesel 15-40w and freshen up clutch hydraulics. Then note any difference. Some engines act differently with other oils.
 

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Grinding into gear

It sounds to me like your clutch isn't fully disengaging when shifting. which is much better than worn shift forks. Check out the clutch fluid level,looks for leaks, and bleed the system. Air in the hydraulic system will compress and not fully release the clutch. Don't worry, this is not a hard fix compared to removing the motor and splitting the cases.
 

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Clutch handle bushing comes to mind now too. Aftermarket levers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info guys. Keep in mind the clutch feels normal, no air in the system and solid clutch lever. All other gears are normal.
 

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+1 on changing your motor oil.Synthetic may make the clutch begin to slip and a good dino 15-40 oil will improve shifting and quiet the motor.When you initially put the bike into 1st gear does it engage smoothly or grinding?If it goes in smoothly I don't see an issue with your clutch,if the bike lurches or there is significant grinding when putting it into 1st gear you definatly have a clutch issue.
 

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Keep in mind the clutch feels normal, no air in the system and solid clutch lever. All other gears are normal.
Unless you have access to other 1500's to ride or work on these things everyday you do not KNOW what is normal.

The above posters have all suggested the clutch hydraulics but you want to give up before it is even LOOKED at.:? Sure beats your alternative theory.

So be it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry guys I didn't mean to come off wrong. I am thankful for the suggestions.
I'm a mechanic by trade and have been in the automotive business for 30 plus years.
I'm very familiar when a hydraulic clutch has air or not performing properly.
my point is all the other gears go in and out of gear normally . this feels like a synchronizer is bad on both 2nd and 4th gear. I will change the oil this weekend and inspect the clutch fluid and see looks like.
thanks for all the help.
Bruce
 

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You didn't come across wrong (in my opinion). Since no one really knows you at this point, we all make varied assumptions, that is all. The goal is to help as much as possible, prefereably with as little work/cost as possible. I also have been wrenching most of my life and have a significant amount of mechanical skill. But as you know from being a mechanic, all vehicles are different. 'Wings are their own brand of machine and while there are many constants, there are also subleties that can be missed. Riders here have oooooddles of years of Goldwing specific knowledge and experience.

That said:
Have you bled/flushed the clutch? It may feel normal, but still be not quite right as not all hydraulic systems are the same brand to brand, year to year. Your hose could even be soft from age and not allowing the pressure to work the clutch properly.
The majority of folks here use dino oil as opposed to synthetic. Different oils make the 'Wing feel/act different. Many use diesel (15w-40) oil like DELO or DELVAC (I am a convert from mostly synthetic myself in the Goldwing). Since the Goldwing is so dang quiet and smooth, what is grinding or rough on these bikes is normal everywhere else. Honda had a U-pipe exhaust on the original GL bikes. They intentionally went to a louder exhaust because people complained of valve train noise. The noise was normal, but people were not used to such a quiet and smooth bike so they made the bike louder to drown it out to what people expected to hear.
So, before pulling the motor (which yes, might be an issue, but dang that's low miles) check by bleeding the fluid, try a different motor oil, check the lever bushing. Just in case.
Cheers!!
Rich
 

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With the age of the 1500. The clutch may feel normal. But until you look inside the master cylinder, you never know.
Also it is recommended to change clutch,brake and coolant every 2 years or 24,000 miles. The brake fluid collects moisture.
I have seen where the slave cylinder piston sticks some. The clutch lever feels good. But the slave was responding slow because of junk/sludge. Unless you have the service history on this bike. I would consider changing ALL fluids. Just my opinion.For low miles and age of bike.
 

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Yup, for fifty dollars in parts and oil along with a couple hours labor you have a 50/50 shot of eliminating the cause of your concern.

Being they are 20 years old I consider a master and slave cylinder normal wear/maintenance items regardless of mileage and have no problem spending chump change to renew. This is a case where you take the shotgun approach, if the system is opened everything gets done.:)

I am no fan when it comes to changing over to synthetics in higher mileage older units mainly for the gasket/seal issues that sometimes arise further down the road.:coollep:
 

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It sounds to me like your clutch isn't fully disengaging when shifting. which is much better than worn shift forks. Check out the clutch fluid level,looks for leaks, and bleed the system. Air in the hydraulic system will compress and not fully release the clutch. Don't worry, this is not a hard fix compared to removing the motor and splitting the cases.
+1 First check clutch operation. Clutch drag produces exactly such symptoms, and it varies by gear and transmission. Good luck!
 

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Sorry guys I didn't mean to come off wrong. I am thankful for the suggestions.
I'm a mechanic by trade and have been in the automotive business for 30 plus years.
I'm very familiar when a hydraulic clutch has air or not performing properly.
my point is all the other gears go in and out of gear normally . this feels like a synchronizer is bad on both 2nd and 4th gear. I will change the oil this weekend and inspect the clutch fluid and see looks like.
thanks for all the help.
Bruce
There is no syncronizers in a GoldWing gearbox .
Maybe you just dont put enough pressure on the gear pedal ? (dont be violent ).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sounds good guys. I will check it out this weekend.
I also have a 1984 Honda V65 Sabre and have been using Rotella diesel oil in that for years. I will change the oil and ck the clutch.

Thanks again.
Bruce
 

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constant mesh tranmission

I never really understood how a constant mesh trans could work until I took mine apart. Even though the gears on the main shaft and countershaft are in constant contact (mesh), only one gear on each shaft is connected to the shaft itself at any time, and none are connected when in neutral. Rather than the gears sliding back and forth with syncho rings to match their speed like a car tranny, the gears stay put, and splined collars with shift dogs that engage each other inside the gear. One collar slides right to engage first, left engage second, and sits in the middle as third is engaged by a different shift fork, which also engages fourth when it slides left. Then the third shift fork engages 5th as the second shift fork moves the collar to the middle of 3rd and 4th. So 2 collars are moving on the 2-3 shift, and the 4-5 shift.
So the clutch not releasing enough will cause the shift dogs to grind, not the gears if the rpms are too high to let them mesh. They are probably worn some already from missed shifts over the years, pretty normal.
Just service your clutch release system and ride it and try to avoid grinding.
 

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I'm only commenting on the fact that there is a ton of members that have BEEN THERE DONE THAT. They have saved me 1,000 plus in just one year. I to have been turning wrench's for 30 years and agree that these bikes are all one of there own.
 

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Given the vintage of your Wing, I've got to mention something else here. Just sharing my own experience.

When I got my '85 Aspy back to life the shifting was "crunchy" for lack of a better word. Clutch release system was clean and fresh, but it was still crunchy. I had Rotella T6 in the case. This spring I decided to put about 6 ounces of SeaFoam in the crankcase and go for a nice warm ride of about 150 miles. The oil was clear as a bell when I left. When I drained it hot upon my return it was black as pitch and noticeably thicker. SLUDGE. This concerned me, so I actually bought some Mobil 1, which I think is a better oil than Rotella for our machines, rode it with the same amount of SeaFoam in the case for a week, about 500 miles. Same thing, very dark but a little less thick.

I put Amsoil 10W-40 and a new filter in/on and within about 200 miles I noticed a great transformation: My 28 year old Wing simply "clicks" between gears, no crunching at all, up or down, and just slightly warm or warmer. I DO NOT SELL THE STUFF, OK! How much was due to the SeaFoam or the Amsoil, I'll never know, but I love the results. I don't sell SeaFoam either, but know that it cleans clutch disks nicely. The case on my Wing has never been cracked and there is about 61K on the dial. Just passing it along. Sludge is the enemy of anyone with a Wing older than 15 years, I reckon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks again for all the help. I will get back with you after i check it out and change some oil.

Nobody local had the Dino oil, I had to order it. It will be in today.

Bruce
 
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