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The number 3 plug is fouling on my 82 GL1100 I. The other plugs are burning fine. Could it be a stuck float or carbs needing syncned? According to clymers book the plug is carbon fouled. If it is a float can you just replace the float or is there more to it? Thanks for any help.
 

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If it's carbon fouling then it's not a stuck float/flooding problem. Hard carbon deposits mean the engine is burning oil. If a new plug cures this for a while before fouling up again then it's burning oil.
 

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Sounds to me like you'll have to remove the number 3 carb and go through it thouroughly.

Could be a bad float or needle valve or could be a dried out and cracked o ring on one of the jets cause the fuel to leak past the jet and making the mixture too rich.

Get a manual and study it carefully before you tear down the carb because there are some hidden parts you may not notice without the manual. Also, be careful when extracting the float pin because it only comes out one way since it's tapered.

Vic
 

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outlawearl wrote:
My #2 plug fouls from idling and I have taken my carbs off and I can't tell what exactly is wrong. My accelerator pump is becoming tattered and one air cut valve is frayed and one pilot screw is screwed way farther than the others.

I am thinking of taking my carbs to a mechanic who knows what to do.


The number 3 plug is fouling on my 82 GL1100 I. The other plugs are burning fine. Could it be a stuck float or carbs needing syncned? According to clymers book the plug is carbon fouled. If it is a float can you just replace the float or is there more to it? Thanks for any help.
 

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Last I heard it costs about $800. to have a dealer/repair shop completely go through the carbs on a Classic Wing, but, that includes parts and synchronization.

You may want to spend a few dollars on a Honda manual and spend a weekend studying for that kind of cash. If you're gentle and patient and don't mind asking for help you should be able to accomplish the rebuild yourself.

Vic
 

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Ok is was really hoping that someone would say running a can of Seafoam would solve my problem. LOL. Well I changed the plug & went with a hotter one. I took it for about a 20 mile ride & came back & pulled the plug. It looks fine. It did burn alot of gas though. Can I still ride the bike like this or should I not until I get brave enough to rebuild the carb?
 

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You can still ride the bike, but, keep an eye on your oil. If it's turning black and thinning out you had better change it and then get the carb fixed.

But, it sounds like the plug is clean now, so, possibly the other carbs are out of adjustment as well.

Have you got a carb synchronization tool?

Vic
 

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I don't have a synchronizer but I am debating about getting one & trying it. Would this help with the plug that was fouling?
 

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It might help because it would allow all cylinders to put in equal effort for driving the bike. Sometimes if the carb synch is really bad what happens is that one carb can be the only one opening enough so it has to draw a lot of fuel that doesn't all get burnt in one stroke. A quick way to tell is to take off each one of your spark plug wires one at a time to see if the engine dies or just slows down. If it dies when you remove one plug wire that cylinder is working the hardest, no decrease in speed means that cylinder is not workingetc. Only remove one wire at a time otherwise you could damage the ignition unless you ground the disconnected wire.

Vic
 

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P.S. Don't forget that the plug wires carry about 30,00 volts so try to use an insulated tool to remove and reinstall them while the engine is running, otherwise your hair will look funny and you might stutter when you talk.

Vic
 

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Ok, I was just at the auto parts store (looking for Synchronizer gauges with no luck) & noticed a carbureter spray that you spray in the carbs while the engine is running. Would this stuff help with sticking floats? Also, what is the disadvantage of a mercury synchronizer verses a gauge. Also the best place to get one with out ordering. Thanks
 

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Let us know how it goes, I've got the same exact problem on my 83 gl1100A. Also, the number 3 cylinder. I tried the easy stuff first, like changing the plug, spark plug cap, etc. As Goldwinger 1984said I pulled each cap and all decreased RPM except #3. Like yours my #3 plug appears to be covered with a dry black powder. I'm going to re-synch the carbs, but I checked them 2 weeks ago and they were all within 1/2 in Hg. So, it looks as if it's inevitable. The carbs will have to come off. :baffled:
 

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Goldwinger1984 wrote:
P.S. Don't forget that the plug wires carry about 30,00 volts so try to use an insulated tool to remove and reinstall them while the engine is running, otherwise your hair will look funny and you might stutter when you talk.

Vic
Hmm maybe he should do it with out the tool.. as he is bald.. maybe it would make his hair grow.. and he stutters already might fix his speach problem.. LMAO... sorry earl had to do it..... will be around first of the week looks like.. will come in and help yea well okay get in your way.. lol
 

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Go easy on the guy, he's got enough problems with his Wing and doesn't need to be razzed about his hair (or lack of it) and his challenged speech. LOL

outlawearl, I've never had much luck with those kinds of carb sprays. They are good for cleaning the outside of the carb, but, I feel that you may need to replace some dried out o rings and possibly a dirty needle valve and seat. Maybe you'll just find a hunk of dirt in the carb, but, usually it's worn parts that keep them from running at their peak.

Let us know what you find.

Vic
 

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outlawearl wrote:
The number 3 plug is fouling on my 82 GL1100 I. The other plugs are burning fine. Could it be a stuck float or carbs needing syncned? According to clymers book the plug is carbon fouled...
Are you on the right track here, ie are we talking about hard carbon fouling (we need to get that clarified)? Is the cylinder flooding all the time or is it dying when the plug gets foulled with carbon? If it's hard carbon then the engine is burning oil.

What happens when you fit a new plug, does the bike run okay for a while?
 

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The plug is getting a dry fluffy black substance on it. The motor does not quit but does start to run bad.
 

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Well done, that's pertect. That cylinder is running to rich, so it is indeed a carb problem and not an engine burning oil problem. Like Vic suggests, sprayiong carb cleaner in probably won't make any difference. Balancing the carbs won't fix this as it's not a balance/synch problem. It's either a float/flooding problem or the air screw needs adjusting at the least.
 

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Thanks for posting that plug pic, that's exactly what mine looks like. Sounds like we have the same problem.
 

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Ok, here is a follow up on the plug. I went for about a 100 mile ride. Half way through I pulled the plug out & it was starting to get black. I did not have anyway to clean it so I put it back in & headed for home(about 50 miles). When I got home I pulled the plug again & it looked clean & had burnt off the black. Now when I filled up I put in some stuff like Seafoam but is called B12 I think. Anyway, do you think this is what helped clean up the plug? The bike did not really run that good the whole trip but you could not tell it by the plug. Any ideas?
 
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