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Either 4 or 6 is much better than stock. On my 1500 trike I had 4.5 and on my 1800 6 degree. Takes a little time to get used to 6 but now it's much better that 4.5. Good luck, let us know how it goes!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Either 4 or 6 is much better than stock. On my 1500 trike I had 4.5 and on my 1800 6 degree. Takes a little time to get used to 6 but now it's much better that 4.5. Good luck, let us know how it goes!
I have a stock one that has been cut and welded with 4 degree now. The issue is wanting it a little easier as well as safer.
 

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Just be aware … using cut and welded with no fork tube extensions will lower front of trike some.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Just be aware … using cut and welded with no fork tube extensions will lower front of trike some.
I have since replaced the tree with a papazook tree 4.5. The only inprovement from the OEM altered one is less wobble at slow speeds over bumps. as for any other improvements it steers a little stiffer when cornering. and this one has the 2" extensions the other did not. thinking of lowering the front end to see what improvements i get from that. Not sure i will mess to much as it is for sale. Time for a new house!!
 

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Rake degree doesn't matter. It's the trail that affects handling.

Changing the rake changes the trail.

Front end geometry can be complicated but it's crucial to understand if you're gonna be changing things up there.
 

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are yall getting rake with triple trees, head bearings, or frame rake?
Just lays fork tubes down, moving tire forward, reducing trail, eases steering. Not a "real rake" as stem angle stays stock. Kicks frt tire forward.


My kit included new machined billet triple trees, new bearings, new stem, two fork extensions. Fork tubes raked 6 more degrees than stem. Trike (bike) frame not altered. This was a Champion 6 degree E Z Steer in 2004.










I neglected photo of tube extensions in 2004 when I did mine? Also I have no pic of top stem bearing, but that was included. I did, in time, cut some black adheasive backed vinyl and cover top of that reflective, very shiney top triple tree. Paint would be OK too.


 

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I have a triking trike gl1500. 75.5 wheel base with a modified OEM tree. I am told it is 4.5 drgrees. I am looking to go with the billet one and not sure what to go with, 4 or 6. I would like it to be a little easier to steer but not sure how easy is to much.
Time to bring this thread back from the dead!

I just purchased a TriKing Trike on a red 1994 Aspencade a few days ago. No real research or test rides on different models with various degrees of rake, or riding a solid axle vs IRS. Saw it, bought it. As an aside, I own a red 1995 Aspencade.

In essence, I put the cart before the horse, but that's ok. I found my way to discussions about rake in order to ease the steering through corners, which would help my shoulders.

It seems the two most popular and most available rake kits for the 1500 are either in 4.5 or 6 degree rake.

I've read that the 4.5 is more appropriate for shorter wheelbase, and the 6 degree will be better for longer wheelbase. The TriKing has just about a 9" extended wheelbase, so that seems to tip the scales in favor of the 6 degree kit.

So far, I've discovered two sellers of a kit, both about same price, both look the same. The first seller is clear that they are a reseller, and tell where they get the kit from. The second seller does not mention whether they are reseller, or make their own in house...am suspecting they are a reseller, but have not asked.

It would seem that this technology/design is now old as the hills, and with CNC technology, just about anyone with any degree of skill should be able to machine one.

That should level the playing field as far as spitting one out, but what about materials? I've read on one website "billet grade aircraft aluminum". I know there are different grades of "aircraft aluminum".

Is there a consensus on which grade is the best for this application? Example, for example 6xxx-T6 vs 7xxx-T7?

Thanks,
John
 

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Either would work if the part was designed for that material. 7075 is the stronger of the two alloys, but it comes with a big downside in that it is not a weldable alloy. 6061-T651 would be my first choice. It is weldable and plenty strong for that application. It's not like you are worried about shaving grams on a half ton plus trike.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I will say this. when I started this thread I was hoping to get most to tell me what one to use. I have not been I the site in a while and don't remember what most suggested. I started with no rake at all and it was horrible. I purchased a 4.5 that was an original cut and modified and 1 degree of caster added. It worked very well except for low speeds on bumps and rough areas. had a little wobble nothing bad just annoying. The tree was well build but was still a little unsure about. I road about 3000 miles with no issues, But I wanted something that felt safer. So started this thread and purchased a billet one 4.5 degree and fork extenders for 650. i think. out of the box the low speed wobble was pretty much gone. The bad Is that steers harder than the OEM moded one i took off. not sure if it's the extensions or what the issue is. The front does sit a little higher that the other as it did not have the extenders, at this point Not sure if the 6 would have been a better choice.

as for what material to use??? i would suggest the strongest one cause of flex ...
 

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Our Lehman is on a '97 GL1500 base, and is probably one of the shorter trikes. Solid axle, drive shaft with joints is not much longer than OEM, we love it. When we got it, it was OEM front, later I added a 6 degree EZSteer.
We love it.
Glad I went with the 6 (vs 4.5). Did come with 2" fork extenders. I played with springs, oil is 7.5wgt BelRay, and by far best springs were / are Progressive #11-1112 .
You can compare specs below and soon see why I say so.
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Progressive # 11-1112 is for Kawasaki KZ1200/1300 (and is what I use in my 1500 trike with 6 degree EZ-Steer) ....
20.75 " L <>1.19" OD <> 45/70 Lbs/In. rate
----------------------------------------------
Progressive # 11-1122 is for GL-1200 GoldWings (use of a 1/2" or 3/4" spacer is suggested when used in GL1500 based trikes with rake kits, they do work in a raked 1500 trike front and ride better than below 11-1152 do, but 11-1112 are even better and need no spacer) ....
20.00 " L <>1.34" OD <> 45/70 Lbs/In. rate
----------------------------------------------
Progressive # 11-1152 is for GL-1500 GoldWings ....
20.50 " L <>1.35" OD <> 35/80 Lbs/In. rate
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They just work the best of the three, and they do it well. I have tried all three in a short span. No spacers needed, the spring is already longer but has a softer rate than the 11-1152 that are hard riding SOBs in a raked pair of fork tubes. They hold the front up at rest, extend all the way at take off, and swallow bumps like butter. :smile2:


The Avon Trike Radial was/is a great addition too.:wink2:


As to materials or construction, all that I've seen are very robust, of aluminum, and I've never heard of / seen / nor read of a failure of such trees.


Black OEM vs Silver EZ-Steer in pics taken 14+ years and a few miles / turns / bumps ago:
 

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I will say this. when I started this thread I was hoping to get most to tell me what one to use. I have not been I the site in a while and don't remember what most suggested. I started with no rake at all and it was horrible. I purchased a 4.5 that was an original cut and modified and 1 degree of caster added. It worked very well except for low speeds on bumps and rough areas. had a little wobble nothing bad just annoying. The tree was well build but was still a little unsure about. I road about 3000 miles with no issues, But I wanted something that felt safer. So started this thread and purchased a billet one 4.5 degree and fork extenders for 650. i think. out of the box the low speed wobble was pretty much gone. The bad Is that steers harder than the OEM moded one i took off. not sure if it's the extensions or what the issue is. The front does sit a little higher that the other as it did not have the extenders, at this point Not sure if the 6 would have been a better choice.

as for what material to use??? i would suggest the strongest one cause of flex ...
Well, I don't understand how one can get 1 degree caster increase in a 4.5 kit. I just don't see it.
The extensions mainly raise the front back up after you just laid the tubes down a few more degrees.
As stated before above, I'm glad I went with 6 degrees. I've ridden OEM and some with 4.5s as well, but I like 6 better. I wouldn't want more though, you need some trail.


:wink2:
 

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Our Lehman is on a '97 GL1500 base, and is probably one of the shorter trikes. Solid axle, drive shaft with joints is not much longer than OEM, we love it. When we got it, it was OEM front, later I added a 6 degree EZSteer.
We love it.
Glad I went with the 6 (vs 4.5). Did come with 2" fork extenders. I played with springs, oil is 7.5wgt BelRay, and by far best springs were / are Progressive #11-1112 .
You can compare specs below and soon see why I say so.
----------------------------------------------
Progressive # 11-1112 is for Kawasaki KZ1200/1300 (and is what I use in my 1500 trike with 6 degree EZ-Steer) ....
20.75 " L <>1.19" OD <> 45/70 Lbs/In. rate
----------------------------------------------
Progressive # 11-1122 is for GL-1200 GoldWings (use of a 1/2" or 3/4" spacer is suggested when used in GL1500 based trikes with rake kits, they do work in a raked 1500 trike front and ride better than below 11-1152 do, but 11-1112 are even better and need no spacer) ....
20.00 " L <>1.34" OD <> 45/70 Lbs/In. rate
----------------------------------------------
Progressive # 11-1152 is for GL-1500 GoldWings ....
20.50 " L <>1.35" OD <> 35/80 Lbs/In. rate
----------------------------------------------
They just work the best of the three, and they do it well. I have tried all three in a short span. No spacers needed, the spring is already longer but has a softer rate than the 11-1152 that are hard riding SOBs in a raked pair of fork tubes. They hold the front up at rest, extend all the way at take off, and swallow bumps like butter. :smile2:


The Avon Trike Radial was/is a great addition too.:wink2:


As to materials or construction, all that I've seen are very robust, of aluminum, and I've never heard of / seen / nor read of a failure of such trees.


Black OEM vs Silver EZ-Steer in pics taken 14+ years and a few miles / turns / bumps ago:
I love not having to reinvent the wheel, thanks for the great advice. This will be winter project.

Trying to get my thoughts in order:
Front wheel off, change tire
Fork tubes off, change springs, new oil
Add EZ steeer
Reinstall fork tubes and wheel
Beer

Can the EZ steer be added with the upper primary fairing in place? Hoping to not have to strip every piece of front plastic.

Thanks,
John
 

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… etc ...

Can the EZ steer be added with the upper primary fairing in place? Hoping to not have to strip every piece of front plastic.

Thanks,
John
For sure. I just jacked mine under engine and set on blocks.


Also, I was re-reading my post above, and realized I made a very slight mistake. The extensions added will not diminish trail reduction as I stated earlier, they actually will add to trail reduction a hair if anything due to the new angle of the fork tubes being 4.5 or 6 degrees askew of stem steering axis line now.
 

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Cool, thanks. Did you remove the top shelter cover?
No, Just the single narrow strip that cover stem area from the top shelter to ignition key areas.


You can see in pics, I covered windshield, maybe padded it too (was in 2004) and pulled a bungi cord across to hold handle bar up towards it. My "patio" was open then so I covered trike rear for the time I was working. I pulled it apart one afternoon, put together next morning. I made a stem nut socket tool from old ($1 maybe at a flea market-antique shop, instructions all over the net and this site) socket, used it to torque nut with.


I made a long punch from 1/2" rod to knock lower bearing race out, alternating around it from above so as to not damage stem tube of trike frame. Just use small whacks with hammer, slow is good. You'll get a new lower race in kit.


I did slip new upper & lower fork bushings and fork seals in place.


I also set fork tubes (with extensions) so top of steel tube (joint line of extension / tube) was about 1/8" up into lower side of top triple tree. As a result, top tip end of extension sits about 1/8" proud of top tree top surface. Not really needed maybe, as aluminum extensions have male threads that go into top of steel tubes and are near solid, but it's just how I do things. Tip, when putting extensions on top of fork springs, drop the shaft end of a Philips screw driver down hole in extension to keep extension from sliding off spring, it'll help you. Remove Philips SD then.


I used coat hanger wire hooks to hold calipers up so as not have them hanging on hoses.


If …. after putting it all together.... you do decide to try other springs, all you need to do is jack front wheel up off floor, blocks in place under engine, loosen top tree fork clamp bolts, slowly remove just extension, and leave tubes in place. I use a 1/2" drive speed wrench (looks like crank), socket, and a 2x4 piece across my chest with recess for end of wrench, stand on food pegs, etc and press with my weight while slowly remove extensions.
Extensions have holes in the center so to change just fork oil only, just drain and remove fork caps, leave extensions alone then.


With the 11-1112 springs the trike sits up very well, not "at" but "nearly at" top of fork travel. Springs and the 7.5 wt (50/50 mix of 5wgt & 10 wgt) fork oil sure ride good. Springs are only slightly smaller OD, so they are a looser fit in fork tubes. I always put close coils down so they are immersed in fork oil and I hear less noise as closer coils stack up under compression.


Good luck. Lots of fork threads here.:wink2:
 

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Now, for another twist...

My front end is 2" lower than a stock Wing. But, not by design.

I reached out to the manufacturer to ask if they altered the fork length, and was told "no". The 2" sag on my front end is just old age.

I need to bring the springs up to snuff, and then re-evaluate the trike ride to see if I actually need/want to install the rake kit. Right now, I'm riding this thing with a wonky suspension.

With that in mind, which springs would you recommend? Would it be detrimental to install the Progressive #11-1112 without the rake kit?

Or, is this one of those situations where I just need to bite the bullet, and install standard Progressive replacements, and then change to Progressive #11-1112 if/when I decide to install a rake kit?

Thanks.
 
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