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1979 - 75 GL 1000 Cafe style
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finally got her back together, start, stops, idles, cools and drives geart under normal driving, spot on.
Seems to be slipping but only at higher RPM's (7-8k ish). This is of course under hard acceleration and most often happensbut only toward the end of the range for the gear...in other words it happens just about the time I'm ready to shift up.
It seems like the clutch would be most likely to slip when first engaged in a gear...not when I'm almost out of it and it's been pulling hard (and fully engaged).
Slipping clutch at 7k while under full throttle acceleration in all gears except 1st.
Handle bar shift is butter smooth, lever has about 3/8 to 1/2 in slack, shifts through all gears with no prob up and down, cable is smooth and free of hang ups.

If I roll out hard in 1st, no problem.
Speed shift into 2nd and just stays at 7k for a sec then slips all up to 8k, winding out but not speeding up but if i stay in it eventually feels like starts to bite and pulls while pegged at 8k.

If i roll through 1st to 5th normally AND briskly BUT NOT speed shifting, zero issues, rolled out nice and swiftly.

Is my clutch wearing out or is this something else?
Any ideas what cause may be? Using fresh 15w40 Rotella conventional oil.
Going to drop rear cable to shift lever cover, reset throw to 5/8 slack/travel but seriously dont think it will help.
 

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1993 GL1500 Aspy 1980 GL1100 STD
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I replied to this on the other forum.....
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Might just need to do an oil change. Run some SeaFoam or equivalent, for a couple hundred miles and change when hot. And no fancy oils on fill up. Standard Honda or Valvoline motorcycle oil, 10~40.

Fancy oils usually have additives that can cause wet clutches to slip. Rotella doesn't have the additives and I know many here swear by it, but...

I think your next step is clutch plates. Not sure if the 1000s have a damper plate but the symptoms are pretty similar to when my damper plate started to come apart.
 

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Denver is pretty sharp but I do not know what his suggestion was.
My guess is that you might have the clutch over adjusted. If you put a wrench on the adjuster lock nut you need to have some free play in the lever.
Also just having free play at the handlebar lever does not necessarily mean there is free play at the other end of the cable if things are rusted internal the clutch cable housing.
Good chance one of those two things are holding the release bearing so it will not release all the way. The release bearing must release all the clutch spring pressure to lock up the clutch as it should.
 

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1979 - 75 GL 1000 Cafe style
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Discussion Starter #6
so just read Denver's reply, verified the oil i just serviced with has additives that may be contributing to slip, will dump, swap filter and run a through a few tanks and reflush with suitable oil to see if clears up. Any tips to help expedite the wash out of current oil?
15w-40 rotella conventional SAE donut has "CI-4" in the lower section instead of being blank.
 

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1979 - 75 GL 1000 Cafe style
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Might just need to do an oil change. Run some SeaFoam or equivalent, for a couple hundred miles and change when hot. And no fancy oils on fill up. Standard Honda or Valvoline motorcycle oil, 10~40.

Fancy oils usually have additives that can cause wet clutches to slip. Rotella doesn't have the additives and I know many here swear by it, but...

I think your next step is clutch plates. Not sure if the 1000s have a damper plate but the symptoms are pretty similar to when my damper plate started to come apart.
appreciate the info will proceed with oil swap n see if clears up. thx
 

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1979 - 75 GL 1000 Cafe style
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Discussion Starter #8
Denver is pretty sharp but I do not know what his suggestion was.
My guess is that you might have the clutch over adjusted. If you put a wrench on the adjuster lock nut you need to have some free play in the lever.
Also just having free play at the handlebar lever does not necessarily mean there is free play at the other end of the cable if things are rusted internal the clutch cable housing.
Good chance one of those two things are holding the release bearing so it will not release all the way. The release bearing must release all the clutch spring pressure to lock up the clutch as it should.
gunna re adjust lever to 5/8 play spec and swap out oil to non additive and see if clears up before jumping off the clutch ledge. thx
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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I would dump in 4 oz of Sea Foam to the current oil, maybe even to the 2nd Reflush oil to get rid of all of the "super slippery modifiers"

Wet Clutches cannot handle Friction Modifiers, the clutch plates will slip like walking on Black Ice.

Lot of good oils out there, but I use Rotella T6 in 5w40 and never once had the clutch slip. I have several friends who have followed my advice and say that T6 in 5w40 fixed their clutch problems.

a very good upside to T6 is it is one of the least expensive oils to buy. ~$18.88 at Walmart


 

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1979 - 75 GL 1000 Cafe style
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Discussion Starter #10
I would dump in 4 oz of Sea Foam to the current oil, maybe even to the 2nd Reflush oil to get rid of all of the "super slippery modifiers"

Wet Clutches cannot handle Friction Modifiers, the clutch plates will slip like walking on Black Ice.
copy that, it has seen approx an hour of idle time total while tuning and 10 miles since oil change. thx
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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I modified my post since you saw that, backup and read it again.
 

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1979 - 75 GL 1000 Cafe style
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Discussion Starter #12
gotcha, will dump whats in it now, swap in recommended oil with seafoam for a tank and repeat n see if she comes around, thx
 

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gunna re adjust lever to 5/8 play spec and swap out oil to non additive and see if clears up before jumping off the clutch ledge. thx
When you say adjust the lever you realize there are 2 levers you can adjust? One on the handle bars and one inside the clutch housing?
Screenshot (123)_LI.jpg
 

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1979 - 75 GL 1000 Cafe style
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Discussion Starter #14
When you say adjust the lever you realize there are 2 levers you can adjust? One on the handle bars and one inside the clutch housing?
View attachment 323611
yes, originally set clutch housing when installed engine then cables then bars but if i recall correct i set it at 1/4 inch slack like my old 250R's not realizing it calls for 5/8 slack. Didnt think it much of an issue since release and engagement felt good but will reset either way.
 

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yes, originally set clutch housing when installed engine then cables then bars but if i recall correct i set it at 1/4 inch slack like my old 250R's not realizing it calls for 5/8 slack. Didnt think it much of an issue since release and engagement felt good but will reset either way.
That's 1/4 to 5/8 slack. As long as there is any freeplay at all it is enough that it shouldn't slip.
 
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That's 1/4 to 5/8 slack. As long as there is any free play at all it is enough that it shouldn't slip.
Like Dave said but you have to be sure there is free play at the clutch housing lever. It is possible to have free play at the bars and the lever in the housing is too tight . Cable issue, corrosion and binding could cause this.
 
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