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Ok...I got her to where she will whirl over and kick off...but, she will only run with the start button pressed in! As long asI press the button to start the bike, it will kick off and run...as soon as I release it, the starter disengages and the bike dies.....its like the power is being cut from the coils. I put a new set of Dyna coils on the bike when I had it apart, and I removed the ballast resistor assembly. Is ANYONE familiar with the Dyna coils and how they are wired? I wonder if I may have wired them wrong somehow.....I am SO close to having this thing running! I can't wait to ride her again....even if I can only ride for another month or so!
 

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are the coils wired directly to the battery or solenoid?, i guess the coils are wired to the wrong side of the solenoid. cuz only gets power when the solenoid is activated.
 

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sounds like my old dodge when the ballast resistor burned out

I am not sure but it sounds like it has something to do with the ballast resistor set up did the dyna coil instructions tell you to remove the ballest resistor
 

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are just the coils dyna or is the whole ignition system
 

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When you removed the resistor did you hook the 2 wires together?? Should run then...
 

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I have the whole Dyna system on the bike. The PO converted it to the electronic ignition, and all I did was changed the coils over to the Dyna ignition coils due to one of the OEM coils being bad. I had one that was breaking down when the bike was cold. I didn't have any instructions with the coils when I recieved them. I downloaded the instructions to verify that I did it right...there wasn't anything in there about the ballast resistor. So, does anyone have experience with this? I agree with one of the posts, I think I have the coils wired wrong somehow....just don't know HOW I wired them wrong! I need to figure out how to re-wire them! I am hoping that someone has run across this issue before, and has determined how to wire them up correctly!
 

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Hook WHICH two wires together????
 

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You've got to put the ballast resistor back into the system.The ignition system wasn't designed to run on 12 volts so that's the reason for the resistor. Looking at the wiring diagram from the Honda service manual: The Black/Brown wire and the Black wire connect to the ballast resistor.
On the coils, Dyna should have a Positive and a Negative marked on the top of the coils where the primary wires attach. The Black/White wire attach to the Positive lead and the Yellow and the Blue/Yellow attach to the Negative. The Yellow wire attaches to the right coil (the front cylinders, 1 & 2) and the Blue/Yellow wire attaches to the left coil ( the rear cylinders, 3 & 4)
It doesn't matter about the Black/White wire as far as which coil attachment because its a common power wire coming off the engine stop switch.

Dyna used to include a little metal connector to attach the balast resistor... it should still be connected to the coils.
 

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Ray, MANY MANY MANY THANKS!!!!! I will get that taken care of when I get back home Friday. I'm sorry to sound like such an idiot on this stuff....I haven't worked on motorcycles much over the last twenty years....just fixed one here and there....nothing major. And I am always worried that I will screw something up bad on mine! Now, if the ballast resistor isn't in there, will that make it have a weak spark? Or could it be that if I have it wired wrong, the coils are not getting enough voltage because the starter is still pulling current from the system?
 

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Dom



Send me a pm with your email and I will send you a pdf copy of the Dyna installation instructions.
 

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Dyna makes several different coils. Whether you need a ballast resistor and what size depends on which coil you have. You need to end up with the same primary resistance as the OEM. Add a resistor or two as needed to get this. I would check with Dynatek and inform them of your situation. I think if you have the electronic ignition you might not need a resistor at all. (maybe) If you need no ballst resistor you will need to hook the two wires that went to the old ballast resistor together or you will get exactly what you have. When you carnk the engine power is sent to the coils directly. When you release the button power flows through the resistor to the coils. If you eliminate the resistor and NOT hook those two wires together it will only run with starter engaed. Make sense?? Again...I would call Dynatek and tell them which ignition and coil combo you have. Ask them if a resistor is required and which one. Here is a quote from there website. It only applies if you have point type ignition and Dyna coils though. Get the right combo for the best performance.

Dyna Ignition Coils
are available in a wide range of primary resistances to match the requirements of most ignition systems. Before selecting a coil, check the coil primary resistance requirements as specified by the manufacturer of the ignition being used. For breaker points ignitions use 5.0 ohm coils or 3.0 ohm coils with a 1 to 2 ohm ballast resistor in series with the +12 volt supply wire to the coil.
 

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When I ordered the coils, I ordered them based on the model of the bike. There was only one set of coils offered for my bike according to their order thingy....
 

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When you removed the ballast you should have hooked those wires that went to the ballast together. It will run without the ballast just fine but the connection has to be bridged. I've bypassed the ballast many times with a jumper, basically a thin two sided prong that slips into both connections. I believe that with a full Dyna ignition you don't need any ballast, but I'd phone Dyna and check.
What was your headlight doing when you were doing this? It should be off while starting, and come back on when you release the button. If your headlight doesn't come back on then it could be a faulty start switch. They go too, very delicate.

Also I see from your other thread that you were playing with the solenoid. Make sure you have the ignition circuit on the solenoid on the right post. (the one that's ALWAYS hot, not the one that's hot when the starter is engaged.)
 

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Yeah, I really do need to double check that to make sure I didn't cross the wires up on the solenoid somehow. I think I took them off one at a time, if I remember correctly...but, I did this at 9 at night in the dark when it was sprinkling, about to pour down rain, and it was about 40 degrees outside.....(yes, I'm crazy! I WANT MY BIKE RUNNING AGAIN!!!!) Thanks so much to everyone for all the help!
 

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I would tend to agree with nomados. The ballast resistor usually exists to protect the points from over load. Now that it has electronic ignition it probably will need no resistor. Better to check though. Better safe than sorry. :)
 

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the ballast resister allows the coils to give an extra squirt of power (that is a technical term "squirt") when starting the bike... in other words, it is bypassed upon starting and the coils give a stronger spark, but one you release the starter button, it goes back to the normal functioning of the coils....
 

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WELL guys, THAT WORKED!!!! She's running again! I am going to put the rest of the pieces back on, and take her for a ride...MANY MANY thanks to everyone who helped!
 

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What worked? What did you find and correct that got it running again? Inquiring minds want to know.

Oh, and congrats on getting it running again!!:cool::cool::action::action::action:
 

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I went back and put the two wires together correctly that were connected to the ballast resistor...and that took care of that problem! Problem now is that I still have an ignition problem, which I posted as a new post. I need to find a complete points setup (one that someone took out to change over to electronic ignition) so I can send my Dyna S ignition module to Dynatek for testing.
 
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